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Gooseneck trailer

crane operator

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
8,348
Location
sw missouri
I'm going to suggest raising the neck a little if its adjustable. If you get in a slope/ downhill corner, I'm afraid you're going to get the corner of your pickup box.
 

Ronsii

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
3,464
Location
Western Washington
Occupation
s/e Heavy equipment operator
I'm going to suggest raising the neck a little if its adjustable. If you get in a slope/ downhill corner, I'm afraid you're going to get the corner of your pickup box.
I'll second that :)

Cause it sure looks close to the bed right now... first time you go over a moderate hump with that setup you're going to feel it. ;)
 

Ray450

Active Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2015
Messages
39
Location
GreenvilleTexas
Occupation
Police Officer and offroad race promoter
I'm guessing it is about 10"-12" now, what is ideal? When I hooked it up at the dealer it looked good enough to get home empty. Right now the trailer neck sits almost perfectly level, once loaded it would be below level so I'm sure it needs to go up a little anyway. Yes it's adjustable. Can you send me a pic of what you added to the ramp/flatdeck transition? I've had to rent a dozer a couple times in the last 6 years, but I'm not sure they would let me haul it anyway. I'm sure my rubber tracks on my 333E won't be an issue, and everything else will be tires. Here's a pic of the back, you can't really see the extra channel, but they are welded under the tracks on the top side of each ramp in the center, then on the bottom of the upper part of the ramp between the frame and outside. He said it was because dozers tend to catch on and bend/rip them. Probably not something I'll really need, but we did bend the ramps up a liitle when I borrowed a buddy's trailer to haul a 18k-19k pound beast of a backhoe, when I traded it in for this skidsteer. So I figure beefing up the ramps in anyway isn't a bad idea. KearneyRamp.jpg
 
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