Gehl 4510 Stripped Drive Coupler

[4510]

Started the Engine the other night, everything normal, then suddenly a terrible noise. I tried to use hydraulics and realized I had nothing, investigated and found that the coupler (#37) is spinning but the pump shaft is not. I assume that the coupler is softer than the shaft. If you look at the drawing it seems like I can pull the coupler without moving pumps or engine. I am hoping the spacer (#36) between the flywheel (#35) and coupler is wide enough (once removed) to allow the coupler off the shaft. Anyone have any experience with this? Gehl wants $200 for a new coupler as well, any ideas on saving some money on this?

 

[Delmer]

The coupler is probably a standard 13 spline coupler welded to the three tab flange. I just bought one for about $6 from surplus center,IIRC. shipping was a little more than that. If you feel like cutting that flange off and welding it onto a new coupler that might work. It won't last as long as original because the pump splines are half gone already, but you did ask for cheap. And I won't tell you not to do it cause that's what I did...

Would it be easier to pull the pump back to get that coupler out? Are the lines flexible?

 

[mikebramel]

Either, the splines are worn off on the steel coupler and the steel pump shaft, the rubber isloator has broken apart, or the bolts between the couplers and flywheel have sheared

 

[lantraxco]

#36 is probably the actual dampener, and if you look closely you will see that the bolts that hold it to the drive plate go through into a recess in the flywheel. If they're installed with the heads inside like the picture shows you may not be able to get the dampener off the bolts or vice versa.

As Delmer says, if the pumps don't have too many steel lines, that would be the best bet to unbolt it and pull it away from the engine a couple inches. Did exactly that on a Mustang years ago, all rubber hoses didn't spill a drop of oil. Comealong off the front bucket, changed out a drive plate in about an hour.

 

[DIYDAVE]

Looks like 3 bolts go in 1 way, and 3 go in the other, to me. First step is to dis-assemble, and inspect. If the shaft is half worn, you could buy a new coupler, and cut a slot lengthwise down both sides, long enough to grab the worn splines on the shaft, and then weld a couple nuts to each half and bolt together, to tighten down. THen weld the coupler to the flange. As delmar says, Surpluscenter may have the coupler, but you have to determine the size, and count, first. Good luck, it doesn't sound real difficult, if you can find the coupler cheap...

 

[4510]

Thanks for the input. This happened on my last day in town, I will be tearing into it in a couple weeks. Just searching for the cheaper way out and making a plan. The Pumps are all hose connections I believe, so sliding them forward shouldn't be too tough. Do these splines wear out on most machines, or should I keep my eye out for a pump issue causing too much torque on the spline? Funny thing is it never slipped, then suddenly let go under zero hydraulic load while warming up. It was a bit chilly out, but nothing it hasn't seen before.

 

[DIYDAVE]

Cold temps prolly did the coup de gras, hyd oil is thicker at lo temps...

 

[lantraxco]

Splines always wear out, and usually the pump shaft is harder than the coupler. You may find some serious wear on the pump shaft as well. Some manufacturers say to run them dry, I always use a high moly content grease, CAT 6V4876 if you can find some without buying the whole store.

 

[4510]

Previous owner replaced one of the shafts. Hopefully that one. I guess he sheared it in half driving into a sand pile. This machine may have a lot of hours. Hour meter stopped at 950. I am not sure if that is good or bad. Thanks for the input.

 

[4510]

Update: Loosened up the pump mounting bolts, the propulsion linkage brackets, and slid the pumps forward. 6 bolts for the coupler, new one installed, no issues. Old one had worn out. Good to go.

 

[Jerre Heyer]

Good to hear. Better than the motor splines.

 

[Jarkko Hyvarinen]

Hello, I have sl 3610 with same problem. Its hard to find the coupler. Does someone know the specs of the bores on the coupler gehl 072415.

 

[Johndough]

Hello, I have sl 3610 with same problem. Its hard to find the coupler. Does someone know the specs of the bores on the coupler gehl 072415.

I bought a Gehl 4510 with the same issue. The guy I bought it from put a through bolt in it. He said the shaft on the tandem pump side was worn. How difficult it it to replace this shaft?

 

[Jarkko Hyvarinen]

The coupler is probably a standard 13 spline coupler welded to the three tab flange. I just bought one for about $6 from surplus center,IIRC. shipping was a little more than that. If you feel like cutting that flange off and welding it onto a new coupler that might work. It won't last as long as original because the pump splines are half gone already, but you did ask for cheap. And I won't tell you not to do it cause that's what I did...

Would it be easier to pull the pump back to get that coupler out? Are the lines flexible?

what do think might be the diameter? Its 13 tooth indeed

 

[Jarkko Hyvarinen]

what do think might be the diameter? Its 13 tooth indeed

anyone? Need to find solution

 

[Delmer]

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power...-Splined-Coupling-G-G-Mfg-163-1413-1-1392.axd

This is what I used, not on a Gehl but that's a standard spline shaft and coupler size.

 

[Johndough]

what do think might be the diameter? Its 13 tooth indeed

The diameter of the spline is about .850 i'm not sure if that completly correct being that is not completely round.