Galion 503 series L

[Razorsedge2003]

Hello I'm new to this forum. I Just bought a 503 galion and am wondering if there are front scarifier mounts or something for a dozer blade or snow plow for these small graders? There's a flat plate with holes on the front. Does anyone know of a setup laying around in a scrap yard somewhere or a junk machine? Also any information about the machine would be appreciated as I've only operated newer much larger county graders. Also what is a reasonable priced tire that works good for these? It's a 10.00x20. Thanks this is an interesting forum!

 

[repowerguy]

The 503 is a nice machine but it has a few small quirks that I'd like to address. Do not idle in neutral for extended periods, the trans will not oil the upper two shaft bearings. If you notice one wheel isn't pulling, STOP and at least fish out the broken double 60 chain, it will break the other one and destroy the driven sprockets. Don't patch a broken chain, toss it and put in new, these are a weak design that went backwards from the G series 100 pitch chain. If you see a G, grab it for the finals and the 100 pitch sprocket. Where the drop arms are welded to the circle, if they aren't fish plated already where the little stiffener goes between the two at the curve, do it now. This will break and leave you with a bend slider to try and get straight again.
To your question, yeah they exist but are scarce, try Equipment Salvage in Cambridge Oh. Bob may have one there.
I know this is long winded but I've put a lot hours fixing and repowering these machines and want to pass it on. Oh, one more thing, AC D's and DD's use the same transaxle, aside from the engine bolt pattern. Whew!

 

[repowerguy]

I missed the tire question didn't I, the proper size is 8.25x20 bar lug tread. The only maker of these that I know of is Specialty Tires of America. If you use it in dirt it will make a huge difference in traction and make the machine really perform. Used on gravel roads the right tread won't matter quite as much.
It was somewhat common to upsize tires on these machines because 1st gear was really too low to be of much use. If you have any more questions, fire away.

 

[Razorsedge2003]

Another question

I missed the tire question didn't I, the proper size is 8.25x20 bar lug tread. The only maker of these that I know of is Specialty Tires of America. If you use it in dirt it will make a huge difference in traction and make the machine really perform. Used on gravel roads the right tread won't matter quite as much.
It was somewhat common to upsize tires on these machines because 1st gear was really too low to be of much use. If you have any more questions, fire away.

There's a hydraulic leak coming from a control handle that isn't used for anything (I think) because it dead heads. Guy I bought it from gave me some new boots that go over the top of valve and are clamped to bottom of handle is there orings that blew out inside or will replacing boot hold it back? I Just got it so haven't looked to much into leak. Also what kind of clutch do these rigs have?

 

[repowerguy]

The boot is the only thing that holds the oil in, save some hassle and get some spring clamp pliers off a tool truck or make some with a die grinder and some slip joint pliers.
The clutch is just a single disc dry plate. Find the zerk for the throw out bearing and give it a couple pumps.

 

[Razorsedge2003]

The boot is the only thing that holds the oil in, save some hassle and get some spring clamp pliers off a tool truck or make some with a die grinder and some slip joint pliers.
The clutch is just a single disc dry plate. Find the zerk for the throw out bearing and give it a couple pumps.

Thank you for all the great information! That is a strange setup for the hydraulic valves isn't it? I Hope to use the valve that isn't used to operate the front scarifier. I Plan on calling down to see if there is a scarifier mount there again thanks for the awesome info.

 

[repowerguy]

Find the grease fittings where the drive tandems pivot on the transaxle housing. Many times these are overlooked and the fiber pivot bushing will lock up which will break off the 1/2" bolts that hold the tandem to the axle. BTW, which engine do you have, the UD or the Detroit?

 

[Razorsedge2003]

Find the grease fittings where the drive tandems pivot on the transaxle housing. Many times these are overlooked and the fiber pivot bushing will lock up which will break off the 1/2" bolts that hold the tandem to the axle. BTW, which engine do you have, the UD or the Detroit?

I Believe it's an International engine similar to a 560 diesel Ag tractor. Runs good

 

[repowerguy]

When you get time, remove the trunnion caps that hold the lift cylinders in place and put grease fittings(1/4"x28) in all 4 sides of the cap. The 2 that are in the base aren't enough, the ball won't grease enough and will hang up in the socket which makes blade adjustment jumpy or worse a bent rod. Don't get carried away taking shims out either, a small amount of play is needed for grease and free movement, the same goes for the drawbar trunnion too, grease fittings and all. The UD-236 was a decent engine, just hard to start and smoky until it warmed up, a block heater is a must for those Michigan winter starts!

 

[Razorsedge2003]

Well I'm still trying to figure out exactly which engine this machine has. Mine has a four cylinder and I think the 236 is a 6 cylinder? Mine does have an old style John Deere square glass fuel filter but it actually sounds very similar to our old Case dozer. No glow plugs either

 

[repowerguy]

I repowered a L several years ago with a 4236D John Deere from a LeRoi air comp. The company sold out to a competitor and everything went to auction. Describe the hyd. pump drive and I'll tell you if it is it.

 

[repowerguy]

Oops! Sorry, I mistyped in the engine size, 4239D is the proper size. Yes the UD-236 is a 6 cyl.

 

[jemarshall64]

The 503 is a nice machine but it has a few small quirks that I'd like to address. Do not idle in neutral for extended periods, the trans will not oil the upper two shaft bearings. If you notice one wheel isn't pulling, STOP and at least fish out the broken double 60 chain, it will break the other one and destroy the driven sprockets. Don't patch a broken chain, toss it and put in new, these are a weak design that went backwards from the G series 100 pitch chain. If you see a G, grab it for the finals and the 100 pitch sprocket. Where the drop arms are welded to the circle, if they aren't fish plated already where the little stiffener goes between the two at the curve, do it now. This will break and leave you with a bend slider to try and get straight again.
To your question, yeah they exist but are scarce, try Equipment Salvage in Cambridge Oh. Bob may have one there.
I know this is long winded but I've put a lot hours fixing and repowering these machines and want to pass it on. Oh, one more thing, AC D's and DD's use the same transaxle, aside from the engine bolt pattern. Whew!

repower,

I just picked up a 503L. Good little machine, but I am really trying to find out more info on it. I know it was a Washington DOT machine, but that's about it. It seems like it was taken pretty good care of. I did get one place to tell me they think it is a 74, but I have seen people saying they have a higher numbered machine that is older. I was hoping you could give me ay info I you might have on about it. I know I have the left rear tire not carrying its weight and need to look into that, when I looked into the box from the fill port though it looked like a single roller chain instead of a double??? I haven't had the time yet to pop open one of the inspection plates.


S/N: 503 L IC 06525
Eng Nr: 236DU2U019588
Hrs: 5702.2


The engine does need some help, blow by is pretty bad, and I think Nr 1 injector I think is plugged. I can bleed it off at the pump, get good fuel coming out of the line, but as soon as I snug it up on the injector it seems to block off the flow and then the pump itself stops squirting fuel up the line to Nr 1. I have a 453 sitting around right now that I am toying with putting in it.....

If there is anything you can think I of I should look at or check specifically, please let me know.

 

[Razorsedge2003]

Mine has a Waukesha vrd40. I have no idea what years these things are. Maybe repowerguy will chime in. BKT tires were available 3 years ago if you need tires

 

[repowerguy]

He's got the ugly duckling [UD-236], not a bad engine, but quirky and cold natured. A common problem is putting the injectors in upside down, hard to start, and white smoke like crazy. I was told by an old timer that grinding the valves is a bad idea because compression is marginal at best and grinding the valves lowers them and drops compression. I toyed with the thought of a turbo from a 4-BT fabricobbled on the UD manifold, a few PSI boost and the roller retainer leaf smashed flat on the old Roosa-Master pump. Would be fun while it lasted.

 

[FWD]

I had a 503A with a UD236 that was a 1969 model. The L series is a bit newer, I don't know the exact years, but in the 70's.
FWD

 

[jemarshall64]

Thank you.

Yes it's a D236. I pulled the injectors a week ago and sent them to the shop. #1 wasn't firing, and when I pulled them, they were all dripping.

I was told by one place it's a 74, but I have doubts from seeing other machines serial numbers.

 

[Razorsedge2003]

Since you mentioned a 4-53 Detroit. I’m working on the old wood processor and it has a Detroit. Not sure what it is. Any ideas?

 

[jemarshall64]

From that pic I would have to say a 3-53.

If you got the numbers off of it, they would tell you for sure.

https://swiftequipment.com/finding-detroit-diesel-engine-serial-number/

 

[Razorsedge2003]

There’s numbers on the valve cover. They didn’t make any sense with the breakdowns I found on the web