Maybe oily, or hot oil dirty smell best describes the smell... more of an odor, no visible smoke and doesn't smell like anything is on fire or anything just smelly. Smells the same as when I take the engine covers off many hours later during a cold day, same smell, so maybe its just dirty old diesel hot oil engine smell? Not overpowering just smelly. Looking at the manual I had another question as it says to clean and/or replace fuel injectors... is that something I should look into or if its running let it be? And is it the smame deal with older cars where they say dont clean the engine, you may cause something to start leaking more... or can I clean the engine... its dirty. Looks like this forum allows pics... I could post a few....
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Ford 655C service advice
- Thread starter Barty88
- Start date
So, more pressing question now (we are just starting to have fun!) in my manual it says to open the valve if water can be seen in the glass bowl. Looks like liquid in there however, the drain plug lever is NOT on the bottom like it shows in my manual, its on the top. When I twist it (hard to do) a quarter turn the liquid came out the top in a slow steady drizzle (I took a pic and turned it back off) and it smells like fuel and is a light greenish color with a yellow tint. Anyone know why the valve is on top instead of the bottom? Seems weird and inefficient if it was done hat way on purpose or I am doing something really wrong?
Attachments
So... crap. Problem identified... not solved. I got under there with a Flashlight and found that the drain plug had been broken off flush with the base, then someone put a new drain plug up where a screw (bolt) should be... which costs almost $25 just for a screw by the way. So, I plan on disassembling the whole thing (might as well do a fuel drain at this point too) and see if I cant get the plug end drill out of the base and save myself over $80 just for that part. I am going to take a trip down to a dealer south of me and get all the gaskets and O-rings and washers and stuff so I'll have them to re-assemble. Fun times. As far as the tranny fluid, this is all they had online, is this what I want? https://partstore.agriculture.newho.../index.php?target=products&product_id=2473975 . Last question for now, the manual says the inner air cleaner should only be serviced by your dealer. Is that a huge no-no to replace that? Cant see why based on parts diagrams, but I dont want to open a can of worms I cannot close either...
Tinkerer
Senior Member
Yikes !! $24.90 a gallon. Not in my world. There are cheaper alternatives.
Since I am not putting alot of miles on this (very small farm) I am hoping to get away with just replacing thew filter and adding 'something' to what is needed to fill back up... If I were doing a whole fluid refill and needed 5 gallons it would be rough... but everyone is saying this is the area you CANNOT use regular old tranny or hydraulic fluid for and I cant find anything other than the TSC Travellers brand multi purpose ATF that claims to meet M2c-166H or M2C-138CJ thats still $18 a gallon and isn't rated so highly
Check Break
Senior Member
I'm a little behind here and just catching up. You're going to get many different opinions. It's up to you whether you flush. As was said, if there's sediment in your coolant, then flush. I've never had that problem probably because most Ford owners know the penalty for failing to maintain their coolant. I would not do a chemical flush. Walmart distilled water is very cheap. If your coolant has rust particles or other sediment in it, fill up the radiator with distilled water and run it at operating temperature for an hour, then drain and refill, repeating the process 2x or 3x. The distilled water should look better with every flush. If it doesn't, it's not going to get any better and I'd cross that bridge when and if I came to it. Otherwise fill with 50/50 DEAC and distilled water. Test strips are available at NAPA. The last ones I bought were a Cummins Fleetguard product.
The Ford dealer won't have 134D. Valvoline is expensive but it will last you many years as long as it doesn't get condensate contamination. A suggestion was made previously that you use hydraulic fluid in the transmission and center housing. Do not do so. You need UTF (Universal Tractor Fluid) that meets or exceeds 134D in the transmission and at least a UTF that is recommended for use in applications requiring 134D in the center housing. Your machine has wet brakes and you need a friction modifier in your center housing fluid. Friction modifier may not be found in standard hydraulic fluid. I run 134D in both compartments because there may be a swapping of fluid between the transmission and center housing. There's no reason to risk your transmission for $100. Your don't know the amount of wear on your running gear and you don't need it wearing out prematurely.
You should remove your outer air filter and take a look at the inner filter. If the inside of the outer filter is dirty and/or the inner filter looks dirty, replace the inner filter. No use dusting your motor for the cost of an inner air filter. It's your second line of defense if the outer air filter is not maintained properly. A glass shop that supplies truck glass can make you a replacement panel. Auto glass is probably better than the OEM panel. We use it in all our CAT air cabs. A fraction of the price of OEM and a much better product. If you poke a hole in it, a piece of tape will allow you to keep going until you get time to replace the panel. $10,000 is a good price if she gives you 500 hours of service before something major happens. Clean air, clean oil and good coolant will get the most out of your investment and avoid premature failure.
The admonition that only the dealer can service your air filter is BS. You have to pay attention. If you don't install the air filters correctly, they will not seal and you'll dust your motor. Just take your time, use a flashlight or reading glasses if your eyes are like mine. Observe how the filter is installed and make sure it seals when you replace it. No big deal. You can run Travelers Premium (@ $40/5 gal) if your transmission and center housing is full of condensation (turns fluid milky white) but you'll need to drain and refill with 134D ten to forty hours later. If your fluid looks like new fluid, it's your call whether you change it or not. You won't be able to determine whether it's 134D equivalent or something less. I like safe rather than sorry. You won't have any fun rebuilding your shuttle or brakes. Now that you have an owners manual check the capacities section. I think the transmission and center housing will take the better part of 15 gallons if you drain the converter. You can run Travelers Premium in the hydraulic system.
The Ford dealer won't have 134D. Valvoline is expensive but it will last you many years as long as it doesn't get condensate contamination. A suggestion was made previously that you use hydraulic fluid in the transmission and center housing. Do not do so. You need UTF (Universal Tractor Fluid) that meets or exceeds 134D in the transmission and at least a UTF that is recommended for use in applications requiring 134D in the center housing. Your machine has wet brakes and you need a friction modifier in your center housing fluid. Friction modifier may not be found in standard hydraulic fluid. I run 134D in both compartments because there may be a swapping of fluid between the transmission and center housing. There's no reason to risk your transmission for $100. Your don't know the amount of wear on your running gear and you don't need it wearing out prematurely.
You should remove your outer air filter and take a look at the inner filter. If the inside of the outer filter is dirty and/or the inner filter looks dirty, replace the inner filter. No use dusting your motor for the cost of an inner air filter. It's your second line of defense if the outer air filter is not maintained properly. A glass shop that supplies truck glass can make you a replacement panel. Auto glass is probably better than the OEM panel. We use it in all our CAT air cabs. A fraction of the price of OEM and a much better product. If you poke a hole in it, a piece of tape will allow you to keep going until you get time to replace the panel. $10,000 is a good price if she gives you 500 hours of service before something major happens. Clean air, clean oil and good coolant will get the most out of your investment and avoid premature failure.
The admonition that only the dealer can service your air filter is BS. You have to pay attention. If you don't install the air filters correctly, they will not seal and you'll dust your motor. Just take your time, use a flashlight or reading glasses if your eyes are like mine. Observe how the filter is installed and make sure it seals when you replace it. No big deal. You can run Travelers Premium (@ $40/5 gal) if your transmission and center housing is full of condensation (turns fluid milky white) but you'll need to drain and refill with 134D ten to forty hours later. If your fluid looks like new fluid, it's your call whether you change it or not. You won't be able to determine whether it's 134D equivalent or something less. I like safe rather than sorry. You won't have any fun rebuilding your shuttle or brakes. Now that you have an owners manual check the capacities section. I think the transmission and center housing will take the better part of 15 gallons if you drain the converter. You can run Travelers Premium in the hydraulic system.
All good stuff. I bought ALL the filters (including BOTH air so I will put them both on) except I saw there's a hydraulic system breather filter which is like a ring or short pipe. Mine is dark brown almost black. It says to clean with 'appropriate' solvent... dont know what that is but I am cleaning it best I can. Is that something that I should replace ($25) or just clean it and the area around it and it will be good? It was caked with sand in there (which makes sense because the history of this machine was used at a beach) all around the outside of this breather filter, now I have to play 'Operation' to clean that sand out without knocking any down in the reservoir tank... probably will try to shop vac it out and wipe it clean. I think I am going to drain the reservoir tank and clean the other inline outlet screen under the tank if its easily accessible too... get any dirt I can easily see in the tank washed out with new hydraulic fluid and re-attach the bottom feed tube and clean outlet screen then fill it back up.
I agree with not skimping and cutting corners. Especially since this will sit for long periods of time I really like the no-condensate damage feature you spoke of with the Valvoline. You said it was about 15 gallons including the center housing... I am confused here by what you mean... is that the rear axle? Would I have to drain the rear axle as well when draining the transmission fluid? I am including a pic of the capacities chart from my manual. Getting enough 813 for the power steering pump too and I have that filter as well.
I will need to check tranny dipstick when I get home, I havent yet. If it is milky white I assume I need to do a complete service ASAP? If it isnt and looks ok, whats the best course of action given I will probably only use this machine a handful of times until the spring. Should I suck it up and still do a complete service or just replace the tranny filter and add what I need to for fluid to make it full, or put in an additive for it sitting all winter and do the service in the spring or let it be altogether until the spring? I am going to try and (in order) do the air filters, clean out the hydraulic reservoir and filters and get that filled back up, then run it probably for an hour and then do the engine oil and filter and the coolant system while its hot, by tomorrow... I hope. That I think will be a good start.
I agree with not skimping and cutting corners. Especially since this will sit for long periods of time I really like the no-condensate damage feature you spoke of with the Valvoline. You said it was about 15 gallons including the center housing... I am confused here by what you mean... is that the rear axle? Would I have to drain the rear axle as well when draining the transmission fluid? I am including a pic of the capacities chart from my manual. Getting enough 813 for the power steering pump too and I have that filter as well.
I will need to check tranny dipstick when I get home, I havent yet. If it is milky white I assume I need to do a complete service ASAP? If it isnt and looks ok, whats the best course of action given I will probably only use this machine a handful of times until the spring. Should I suck it up and still do a complete service or just replace the tranny filter and add what I need to for fluid to make it full, or put in an additive for it sitting all winter and do the service in the spring or let it be altogether until the spring? I am going to try and (in order) do the air filters, clean out the hydraulic reservoir and filters and get that filled back up, then run it probably for an hour and then do the engine oil and filter and the coolant system while its hot, by tomorrow... I hope. That I think will be a good start.
Attachments
From the dealer closest to me....
"As for the 134D hydraulic oil, we no longer have that product here. We carry the Case branded Hy-Tran Ultraction which is a blend of New Hollands 134D oil and the Case HY-Tran hydraulic oil. It covers both brands requirements for the hydraulics and gives the New Holland side the additional water absorbing ability that the 134D did not have but the Hy-Tran did have. "
"As for the 134D hydraulic oil, we no longer have that product here. We carry the Case branded Hy-Tran Ultraction which is a blend of New Hollands 134D oil and the Case HY-Tran hydraulic oil. It covers both brands requirements for the hydraulics and gives the New Holland side the additional water absorbing ability that the 134D did not have but the Hy-Tran did have. "
Check Break
Senior Member
I'm not familiar with HyTranUltra but you can see the same info online that I did. It's the correct fluid if you own a Case. Looking at Valvoline specifications, Valvoline works in place of 134D but it doesn't claim to work in place of HTU. From what the dealer told you, HTU is recommended for hydraulics and it has additional water adsorbing ability. I saw the same thing online. The dealer is leading you to infer it's also a good Ford transmission fluid. The dealer didn't specifically say that and I believe that statement would be wrong from what I've seen online. As for HTU being a blend of 134D and HyTran, I found nothing to support that statement.
When you get a chance, replace the breather filter. It will last your lifetime. According to your capacities picture, you need 15.58 gallons to fill both the transmission and center housing. The center housing is the casting behind the transmission. It contains the ring and pinion. The axle housings bolt to the center housing. When you drain the center housing, you drain the axle housings. If the trans or center housing oil is dark or milky, replace it. You can fill with $40/5gal Travelers Premium and leave it in there over the winter. Let it mix with any deposits and drain it in the Spring when you have 20-40 hours on it. Replace the transmission filter now and again in the Spring. If the oil is amber in color change the filter, run for a few minutes and add oil to operating level. Change the oil (to 134D) and filter in the Spring. If your hydraulic fluid is dark and you get a little crazy, you can crack some hydraulic hoses and drain what you can out of the hydraulic system. If your hydraulic fluid is amber in color, then just change the filters.
Hope that helps.
When you get a chance, replace the breather filter. It will last your lifetime. According to your capacities picture, you need 15.58 gallons to fill both the transmission and center housing. The center housing is the casting behind the transmission. It contains the ring and pinion. The axle housings bolt to the center housing. When you drain the center housing, you drain the axle housings. If the trans or center housing oil is dark or milky, replace it. You can fill with $40/5gal Travelers Premium and leave it in there over the winter. Let it mix with any deposits and drain it in the Spring when you have 20-40 hours on it. Replace the transmission filter now and again in the Spring. If the oil is amber in color change the filter, run for a few minutes and add oil to operating level. Change the oil (to 134D) and filter in the Spring. If your hydraulic fluid is dark and you get a little crazy, you can crack some hydraulic hoses and drain what you can out of the hydraulic system. If your hydraulic fluid is amber in color, then just change the filters.
Hope that helps.
So just to be clear you are saying that I can use travelers premium in the transmission as basically just a flush until the Spring? You had said not to use that but I assume as a short term solution and a flush that that would be OK? Theres no travelrs premium UTF so I want to make sure you mean the hydraulic oil...
Check Break
Senior Member
Yes. You can use it to replace the old oil for a low use period, leave it in over the winter, and replace it in the spring with a UTF that meets or exceeds 134D. If it looks good when you drain it in the spring, if you capture it in a clean bucket and take care to keep out any other contaminants, you can can reuse it in your hydraulic system and only be out the cost of your labor.
TRAVELLER Premium Universal Tractor Trans/Hydraulic Fluid is a specially formulated, premium multigrade (SAE 10W-30) fluid blended with the highest quality lubricating oils and the most technologically advanced additive system. Provides superior protection and performance for modern farm equipment employing a common sump to lubricate hydrostatic transmissions, differentials, wet brakes, hydraulics and final drive gears.
Specification Description
CountryofOrigin: Made in USA
Performance Standards: JD J20-C / CAT TO-2
Package Quantity: 1
Flash Point: 400F
Container Type: Pail
Type: Tractor Hydraulic Fluid
Container Size: 5 gal.
Part Number: 526929
Brand: Traveller
TRAVELLER Premium Universal Tractor Trans/Hydraulic Fluid is a specially formulated, premium multigrade (SAE 10W-30) fluid blended with the highest quality lubricating oils and the most technologically advanced additive system. Provides superior protection and performance for modern farm equipment employing a common sump to lubricate hydrostatic transmissions, differentials, wet brakes, hydraulics and final drive gears.
- Formulated with the latest available technology
- Low Temperature Pumpability
- Protection Against Brake Chatter
- Excellent Thermal Stability
- Greater Protection Against Gear Wear
Specification Description
CountryofOrigin: Made in USA
Performance Standards: JD J20-C / CAT TO-2
Package Quantity: 1
Flash Point: 400F
Container Type: Pail
Type: Tractor Hydraulic Fluid
Container Size: 5 gal.
Part Number: 526929
Brand: Traveller
Last edited:
Updates...
Did both Air filters. Easy. Only glitch was that the inner looked like it had a sponge O-ring that went against the wall and the rubber O-ring built in to the filter. The manual doesnt show that in the breakout and I think the built in O-ring will give a really good seal so I installed it like that. They had a date from early 2011 on them so 8.5 years is long enough. They didnt look nearly as bad as I would have assumed they would, quite good actually... replaced them both anyway. It did not have dust 'cup' on that bottom short pipe piece as shown in the breakout sketch but I ordered one. Not sure really what that even does in reality.
Did the Oil change and that went smooth, nothing alarming in the old oil. Used Delvac 15-40. The old filter was a NAPA gold but not the same part number and significantly shorter that the one I got to replace it.
Replaced the hydraulic filter and alot of fluid leaked out while i refinished and repainted the filter housing. The fluid was clear and looked really good. There were some rather larhe chunk of stuff (a couple looked clear like small broken pieces of glass) and a couple very small rock that looked like crushed grey stone.... but not sediment, no dirt and clear fluid, the filter (as expected as it is immersed in oil its whole life) looked very good too. I cleaned up the breather filter area next to the fill cap and the breather filter itself. I had to order a new breather filter so I'm waiting on that. Guy at Tractor supply has a 555 and suggest for the extra $6 I actually get the Travellers UTF in the 'Renew" bucket. He said its the same as Travellers premium but has some conditioning additives for wear and seals.... figured it couldn't hurt.
Replaced the coolant.... the old coolant looked really good except it was green.... so I flushed it quick and replaced with DEAC 50/50. The DEAC is pinkish... hopefully this isnt the newer ELC stuff as I have been warned on here about, but nothing I can do now... the correct DEAC is in there at 50-50 and I need to pick up some test strips now. I opened the front grate and l;eaned out the bottom radiator and the next one was caked pretty good with gummy oily dirt so I sprayed engine degreaser on it and rinsed it off with a hose so air could flow better. Topped off the tranny and center housing, both clear liquid so I will have to change those in spring but they looked very clean too.
The power steering was very low. It had red fluid in there so its either 134D or maybe even the wrong stuff... didnt look good. I have the filter and will be pulling off the housing tonight to do a complete change with 134D in that at least. No large O-ring available so I have to hope the one on there is in decent shape or she will have to sit for a few days while I order one and only be out a couple liters of 134D.
Tonight I also plan to remove the fuel filter assembly and re-build it with new gaskets, clean everything up and repaint the metal parts and drill out that broken off stud on the bottom so I can use the water separator properly (see above post and pic).
The machine smokes alot at first and then moderately steady once warmed... I dont know whats normal or not. The muffler is shot and filling the engine compartment with smoke that wafts a little into the cabin. Made a separate post asking folks where to get a muffler. Ebay by far is the cheapest at $315 but I cant spend another $315 dollars on this thing right now. Straight pipe with inline muffler is $100 but I would have to jury rig an "L" pipe fitting and another 90 degree to get it in the sheet metal hole and then over an into the manifold so dont think thats worth it and its not the proper muffler.
Running OK for now, but smokey. At some point probably in the spring will have to take a look at some other stuff to address this... maybe new plugs? Fuel injectors (at least cleaned)?
Did both Air filters. Easy. Only glitch was that the inner looked like it had a sponge O-ring that went against the wall and the rubber O-ring built in to the filter. The manual doesnt show that in the breakout and I think the built in O-ring will give a really good seal so I installed it like that. They had a date from early 2011 on them so 8.5 years is long enough. They didnt look nearly as bad as I would have assumed they would, quite good actually... replaced them both anyway. It did not have dust 'cup' on that bottom short pipe piece as shown in the breakout sketch but I ordered one. Not sure really what that even does in reality.
Did the Oil change and that went smooth, nothing alarming in the old oil. Used Delvac 15-40. The old filter was a NAPA gold but not the same part number and significantly shorter that the one I got to replace it.
Replaced the hydraulic filter and alot of fluid leaked out while i refinished and repainted the filter housing. The fluid was clear and looked really good. There were some rather larhe chunk of stuff (a couple looked clear like small broken pieces of glass) and a couple very small rock that looked like crushed grey stone.... but not sediment, no dirt and clear fluid, the filter (as expected as it is immersed in oil its whole life) looked very good too. I cleaned up the breather filter area next to the fill cap and the breather filter itself. I had to order a new breather filter so I'm waiting on that. Guy at Tractor supply has a 555 and suggest for the extra $6 I actually get the Travellers UTF in the 'Renew" bucket. He said its the same as Travellers premium but has some conditioning additives for wear and seals.... figured it couldn't hurt.
Replaced the coolant.... the old coolant looked really good except it was green.... so I flushed it quick and replaced with DEAC 50/50. The DEAC is pinkish... hopefully this isnt the newer ELC stuff as I have been warned on here about, but nothing I can do now... the correct DEAC is in there at 50-50 and I need to pick up some test strips now. I opened the front grate and l;eaned out the bottom radiator and the next one was caked pretty good with gummy oily dirt so I sprayed engine degreaser on it and rinsed it off with a hose so air could flow better. Topped off the tranny and center housing, both clear liquid so I will have to change those in spring but they looked very clean too.
The power steering was very low. It had red fluid in there so its either 134D or maybe even the wrong stuff... didnt look good. I have the filter and will be pulling off the housing tonight to do a complete change with 134D in that at least. No large O-ring available so I have to hope the one on there is in decent shape or she will have to sit for a few days while I order one and only be out a couple liters of 134D.
Tonight I also plan to remove the fuel filter assembly and re-build it with new gaskets, clean everything up and repaint the metal parts and drill out that broken off stud on the bottom so I can use the water separator properly (see above post and pic).
The machine smokes alot at first and then moderately steady once warmed... I dont know whats normal or not. The muffler is shot and filling the engine compartment with smoke that wafts a little into the cabin. Made a separate post asking folks where to get a muffler. Ebay by far is the cheapest at $315 but I cant spend another $315 dollars on this thing right now. Straight pipe with inline muffler is $100 but I would have to jury rig an "L" pipe fitting and another 90 degree to get it in the sheet metal hole and then over an into the manifold so dont think thats worth it and its not the proper muffler.
Running OK for now, but smokey. At some point probably in the spring will have to take a look at some other stuff to address this... maybe new plugs? Fuel injectors (at least cleaned)?
Clawed Backster
Senior Member
I picked up a new muffler and tink-tink-tink rain flapper at Tractor Supply for about $50 if I remember correctly. My 555 has a "custom made" exhaust riser coming up from the exhaust manifold in place of the correct S pipe. It was that way when I got it, and it makes the muffler on my machine sit at a weird angle.
Check Break
Senior Member
Replaced the coolant.... replaced with DEAC 50/50. The DEAC is pinkish... hopefully this isnt the newer ELC stuff ... . DEAC is pink. It's not ELC. CAT ELC is red.
The power steering was very low. It had red fluid in there... . Probably ATF. Pull the lines off the cylinders and drain as much of it as you can. Replace with 134D.
The machine smokes alot at first and then moderately steady once warmed... Add some synthetic 2 cycle oil to the fuel. Your injectors need help. I use Schaeffers. 3oz to 5 gallons.
The muffler is shot and filling the engine compartment with smoke that wafts a little into the cabin. Made a separate post asking folks where to get a muffler. Ebay by far is the cheapest at $315 but I cant spend another $315 dollars on this thing right now. You must have the horizontal muffler. They look abysmal. Must be hand made in some 3rd world shop. The horizontal mufflers are about $100 but I don't think you have the correct manifold for this.
If you can find some Schaeffers 2 cycle, blend or full synthetic, online, give it a shot before you start cleaning injectors.
The power steering was very low. It had red fluid in there... . Probably ATF. Pull the lines off the cylinders and drain as much of it as you can. Replace with 134D.
The machine smokes alot at first and then moderately steady once warmed... Add some synthetic 2 cycle oil to the fuel. Your injectors need help. I use Schaeffers. 3oz to 5 gallons.
The muffler is shot and filling the engine compartment with smoke that wafts a little into the cabin. Made a separate post asking folks where to get a muffler. Ebay by far is the cheapest at $315 but I cant spend another $315 dollars on this thing right now. You must have the horizontal muffler. They look abysmal. Must be hand made in some 3rd world shop. The horizontal mufflers are about $100 but I don't think you have the correct manifold for this.
If you can find some Schaeffers 2 cycle, blend or full synthetic, online, give it a shot before you start cleaning injectors.
Check Break
Senior Member
While you're in the front, lube the pump driveline. You want to do this every 50 hours or so or a u-joint will let go and take out your radiator, pump drive and sometimes the pump input shaft.
Check Break
Senior Member
Check out: (07) Hydraulic Systems, (05B01) - HYDRAULIC RESERVOIR, COOLER & PUMP DRIVE, Part No. 41
https://www.messicks.com/nhc/65229
You can figure out a lot by perusing the online parts diagrams.
Anyone know if the oil pan is steel or aluminum? Looking at getting a magnetic heater, but it wont work on aluminum... any suggestions as to a heater type or brand? Theres what appears to be a block heater of the correct type (part number I need is 3rd listed under MPN) but not sure if this is accurate and/or if its hard to install? https://www.ebay.com/itm/5B611-Fros...377638?hash=item4b6d5d4a66:g:PKYAAOSwru1dtMVg
