Tore this 7G down for a customer. Finally got to use the press and tooling I picked up! Customer says it's never leaked oil but he checked it the other day and it was low. 8 gallons later it was full and the book says it holds 9. Lol. And it leaked that out almost overnight. So he had me take it down to check it all out. I didn't find any major damage but the bull gear has obviously been rubbing on the outer case and there seems to be alot of wiggle in the reduction gear on its shaft. I also need to know the best procedure for reassembly! Lol.
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Final drive work on D7G, couple questions
- Thread starter 02Dmax
- Start date
tctractors
Senior Member
I am no expert 02Dmax, but you seem to have done things a bit odd in your snaps? the rim pull tooling also is kit that I have not seem before? you did leave the rim nut on the hub (undone some) before you poked the beans into the rim? as soon as I pop the sprocket off its perch, I strip off the tooling then remove the hub nut and very carefully ease the sprocket off the hub taking care not to bash the hub thread section,the next thing I do is tape up these threads so no harm can happen.
more later tctractors
more later tctractors
Well I left the nut off because I was afraid if the sprocket came flying off it would hit that nut and mess up the threads. It came off without scratching a thing though. I was extra careful removing everything once it was loose though. So you're saying to just loosen the hub nut a bit to give the sprocket room to spring loose?
Scrub Puller
Senior Member
Yair . . . . 02Dmax
Given those symptoms I think tctractors is going to be your best friend and given the nice house and ROPS and fuel tank jammed in there is going to be a bit more pulling apart before you have to worry about this . . . .
All the best with it and I must say that Seven looks to be a lovely bit of kit.
Cheers.
Given those symptoms I think tctractors is going to be your best friend and given the nice house and ROPS and fuel tank jammed in there is going to be a bit more pulling apart before you have to worry about this . . . .
All the best with it and I must say that Seven looks to be a lovely bit of kit.
Cheers.
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tctractors
Senior Member
Dmax, it would seem you are lucky as you managed to not harm anyone or damage anything possibly?? I would recomend you study my bit of script in Shop Talk and please post or P.M.me if you are in any doubt on this style of work, firstly the adaptor that you have spun onto the dead shaft 2"x12 tpi needs to have a spacer washer/fitting behind it (this point is not clear in your pic) to load the hub against the back bearing and to make sure no loading from the cylinder goes directly into the dead shaft, think about it some and look at my snaps, you use the engine to unwind the sprocket hub nut forcing the bearing off until you can stuff the Horse Shoe spacer in front of the nut before you run out of thread, this fetches the bearing off neatly from the hub, then you remove the hub nut and tin lock plate, followed by refitting the hub nut onto the thread leaving about 3/16ths of a gap from the nut to the sprocket, this is the bit that is Megga important as it saves loss of blood and damage to your tooling??? so always check this item I never tug on owt' untill I check this detail, then stuff up all your legs,feet and cylinder ready for a bit of action, also place the nose pin from the ram to the adaptor on the dead shaft, I often use an OTC pry bar on the this detail its just a habbit I have, then start to stuff a bit of oil into the cylinder and check on the ram rod travel as the least rod out the better the pull will be, I have differing length rod end fittings to sort this detail as I know less rod is best, then build up the pressure to around 60ish ton if it has not popped off before this point, then I leave it for a few moments so it knows I am boss, then pump up to around 75 ton if it is still hanging on at this point, I take a run at it swinging a 14lb hammer and give it some pain, this usualy gets things going my way, anyhow a few snaps of the innards would be handy.
tctractors
p.s. its best to leave the blade outside the building or not near the spot you are going to be working around, also peg up the cylinders and tie the rods in to the cylinders with weak cord (pull cord) to stop them drifting out.
tctractors
p.s. its best to leave the blade outside the building or not near the spot you are going to be working around, also peg up the cylinders and tie the rods in to the cylinders with weak cord (pull cord) to stop them drifting out.
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Ok. I think I got all that and I'll go do some studying in shop talk. I never thought of using the machine power to spin the hub nut off. I did use it to force the bearing off but I did it by hand with a claw spanner. Lol. I had the cylinders tied up with a strap. Why do you say to leave the blade outside?
this is interesting, I live about 20 miles north of hamburg which sounds like pretty close to where you might be? that tractor looked familiar which is why I was wondering.. check out tony's posts, he has a wealth of good experience to draw on.
tctractors
Senior Member
Dmax, the blade only gets in the way if you drop it off and reverse out of it a few feet, you dont need it near you so dont have it causing trouble for you, the rams that you just left dangling again is doing you no favours, firstly it make the customer think that you are lazy or clueless, well it does in the U.K. I can tell you that the owners would soon bark up a few verbs on this point, so suck the rods fully into the cylinders so they ballance, then hang them up on the pins and tie the rods to the cylinders with cord as they will drift out over a few hours, this also stops you banging your head on them or any damage to them, your cribbing up is also a bit small time and at best a bit unsafe, you need to poke a block under the F/D case and get a few baulks under the beam,those few sticks you poked under the hitch again look like a lack of experience at this sort of work, I would not be happy to start up the engine and power off the hub nut with your cribbing effort, so think about this point and work out what you might do better next time, as for stuffing things back together lets see the cogs first, just as a point what is going on in the opposite drive case, as it usualy works out best to pop both sides down, I can strip both sides on a good day on a D6/7 that is tracks off, frames out, rims blown and cases off with the gears stacked on a pallet by myself, the owners usualy have the blade removed for me awaiting my efforts, I also tell the owners to have a pallet of timber baulks or rail timber in around 3 feet lenghts ready for me.
tctractors
p.s. the hub bearing I remove in about 5 min's by myself or about 4 mins with the owner sat in the pilot seat, you must have sweated some on this task and wasted about an hour?
tctractors
p.s. the hub bearing I remove in about 5 min's by myself or about 4 mins with the owner sat in the pilot seat, you must have sweated some on this task and wasted about an hour?
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Scrub Puller
Senior Member
Yair . . . As always tctractors has covered all the bases . . . I shuddered at the hitch balanced on the little pile of pine.
It is always helpful to know the history of the tractor, like is it low hours for its age and this the first lot of finals?
I believe it is pointless going this far and not re-racing the top pinion . . . hence my earlier comment about the fuel tank coming out.
tctractorsmention of stripping both sides together are my thoughts as well and it gives the option of side for siding some components.
Cheers.
It is always helpful to know the history of the tractor, like is it low hours for its age and this the first lot of finals?
I believe it is pointless going this far and not re-racing the top pinion . . . hence my earlier comment about the fuel tank coming out.
tctractorsmention of stripping both sides together are my thoughts as well and it gives the option of side for siding some components.
Cheers.
Pushing the hub nut off manually did take some effort but it only took maybe 10 minutes tops. The pins and brackets to tie up the cylinders are gone, that's why I hung a strap over the nose. The other side definitely needs taken down as it's filling itself up (pinion seal out) but the owner will never go for it. He's behind bad enough the way it is. I requested alot of cribbing before I started and I don't think they realized what amount and quality I needed. Guess that really shows my youth and inexperience. I just did the best I could with what I had available. Lol. However yesterday I did go get a load of good symmetrically cut hardwood for future jobs.
Mjrdude1
Well-Known Member
With only 800hrs of use, you had better pay special attention to everything, as something has not been done correctly when it was rebearing/resealed.
tctractors
Senior Member
Dmax, perhapse I have been an amount blunt with you, so I would like to say I hope you are not offended and sorry if you have been (I just read my post #12 its a bit daggers) anyhow you are just having a go all credit to you,removing the bearings race and roller all come with their drama and things can easily go wrong, the cutting torch is the weapon most people grab for in the quest to show off their lack of skill, try to avoid being this thick as the damage soon compounds, its about now you need to drain the transmission oil if you intend to swap out the bearings, the intermediate gear rides on the inboard side in a bearing within a housing, behind this housing lies about 20 gallons of jollop so save the mess on the floor and drain it.
tctractors
tctractors
Scrub Puller
Senior Member
Yair . . . 02Dmax.
As Mjrdude1 mentions something has gone very wrong with the last refit . . . those drives should do 10,000 hours plus.
Full marks to you for your application and attitude . . . firstly for getting into it with some enthusiasm (this is a specialised task) and secondly for taking constructive criticism without getting your knickers in a twist.
It seems you may be working without a manual . . . if so I would try and get one urgently.
With "the book" and assistance from tctractors and others on here it should go together fine.
I am just an old Dinosaur who used to do a bit of this kind of work out of necessity about fifty years ago. I know enough to recognise that when it comes to oval track final-drives tctractors is the leading authority publishing anything online . . . even though he says "I am no expert" quite often. (big grin)
Cheers.
As Mjrdude1 mentions something has gone very wrong with the last refit . . . those drives should do 10,000 hours plus.
Full marks to you for your application and attitude . . . firstly for getting into it with some enthusiasm (this is a specialised task) and secondly for taking constructive criticism without getting your knickers in a twist.
It seems you may be working without a manual . . . if so I would try and get one urgently.
With "the book" and assistance from tctractors and others on here it should go together fine.
I am just an old Dinosaur who used to do a bit of this kind of work out of necessity about fifty years ago. I know enough to recognise that when it comes to oval track final-drives tctractors is the leading authority publishing anything online . . . even though he says "I am no expert" quite often. (big grin)
Cheers.