Eaton 2spd electrical diagram

[Labparamour]

Hoping someone has a schematic for electric shift Eaton 2spd axle in an ‘82 Ford LN7000.
I’ve only owned it for about 7 yrs.
Currently, it’s in low range.
Using a tester, I’m finding the lead to the speedo hot no matter switch position and both leads to the shift motor are hot.
Before I pull the shift motor or try replacing the switch, I’d kinda like to have a better idea how the whole thing works.
The Ford manual I have (from when I had an ‘80 F600) doesn’t have a schematic and basically covers motor removal.

Thanks for any help.
Darryl

 

[Truck Shop]

I think I would remove the connection at the plunger switch on the shift lever and use a jumper wire from power terminal to the other connections and listen for the two speed motor operation.
Those plunger switches are notorious for going bad. And only one terminal should have 12V power at a time at the motor. I don't have a diagram so this is the best I can tell you at this time.
Maybe some of these other Mechanics on here can tell you better.

 

[RZucker]

IIRC, at the switch the center terminal is hot (+) in and the upper and lower terminals are high and low output to the motor. Next unplug the connector at the rear and check for lo and hi. Should be 3 wires in the plug, one is the motor ground. the motor unit has an internal limit switch that can go bad and backfeed too. The older units were repairable, the newer ones not so much.

 

[Labparamour]

Thanks guys. You’ve given me a couple things to check.
The switch has a rubber boot over it...I haven’t pulled it off the shift lever yet. I just used a test lamp on the wire connectors running to it.
I saw the two terminals on the shift motor and a ground from the motor to the frame.
It sounds like the motor has two windings and the cab switch energizes one or the other.

The manual shows the switch/contacts inside the motor. It also says there should be connectors where the motor leads run to the frame...I’ll look for that to energize the separate motor leads and I’ll disconnect the switch and see how it meters.

Grandkids duty the next couple days.
I’ll let you know what I find once I get back to it.

Thanks again,
Darryl

 

[Labparamour]

Well, it looks like it’s the shift motor.
Splitter switch meters fine.

Pulled shift motor (which had RTV sealant on cover so, been worked on before) and disconnected the motor leads from the limit switch inside the housing. Motor doesn’t run when put power to it and open circuit metering between the two limit switches.
Plus, found the boss inside the housing for the shaft had partly broken out.

Looks like I’ll hunting down another shift motor.

Have a good weekend,
Darryl

 

[kenh]

There are lists of the motors on Google.
New. used, rebuilt

 

[Labparamour]

Thanks.
I’ll be letting my fingers do the walking!

 

[Labparamour]

I’m chasing down parts tomorrow.
An air shift assembly is $50 less than electric and, the parts guy said new “electronic” versions are prone to malfunction- repeatedly going hi/lo and blowing up rear ends.
Since I have air brakes, I’m thinking of going the air route.
I’m hoping I can use the air valve like 10 speed splitter versus the “gold plated” 2spd shift knob.

 

[Tim Burke]

I replaced mine early in '18 w/ this analog unit from Eaton.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTAJ48H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yikes....it's gone up over $100 since then.

 

[Old Doug]

I’m chasing down parts tomorrow.
An air shift assembly is $50 less than electric and, the parts guy said new “electronic” versions are prone to malfunction- repeatedly going hi/lo and blowing up rear ends.
Since I have air brakes, I’m thinking of going the air route.
I’m hoping I can use the air valve like 10 speed splitter versus the “gold plated” 2spd shift knob.View attachment 201100View attachment 201101

I have never heard of any problems with the newer ones. Going air isnt as easy as fixing what you have.

 

[Labparamour]

I appreciate the link.
That looks like the model I’ve seen and that they say doesn’t have as solid a limit switch unit. Parts guy said it has only one point holding it in the housing and they’ve seen them fail and look like a wiper motor going back and forth non-stop.
I was quoted $350 locally for that model and 300 for air shift.

Darryl

 

[Labparamour]

Well, that was a thought I had, too.
Was just thinking if parts guy is right, new diff or axles would be more expensive.

Will bug the guy tomorrow about both.

 

[Labparamour]

Well, back in business. I went with the electric shift motor. I was really leaning toward the air shift but they didn’t have the quick release Eaton shows in their diagram.
I just figured air is more reliable and running a little spaghetti line would have been easy enough.
Still, this was just bolting on and splicing in the new plug.
Thanks for the help,
Darryl

 

[Spud_Monkey]

Well, back in business. I went with the electric shift motor. I was really leaning toward the air shift but they didn’t have the quick release Eaton shows in their diagram.
I just figured air is more reliable and running a little spaghetti line would have been easy enough.
Still, this was just bolting on and splicing in the new plug.
Thanks for the help,
Darryl
View attachment 201182

Where did you get all your parts and how much did the whole setup cost? Needing to do mine, I don’t get a air option and my plug needs changed too.

 

[Labparamour]

Weller Truck
https://wellertruck.com/

They have multiple locations. One in Kent, WA- closest to me.
They had it on the shelf. About $350, comes with plug/pigtail and shrink tube crimp cinnectors and the rubber seal that goes between motor and axle.
I can look at my ticket for a part number if you need it.

 

[DMiller]

The old style motor and contact plate assemblies are scarceing up, buddy of mine has a 89 GMC with two speed rear lose the interrupter contact connections and shifted to N, had to show him how to get it into a gear then pulled the fuse to get it home. He went this same route with a Eaton supplier here, seems to be a better system at least to me.

 

[Labparamour]

Kinda what happened to me- started down the road then found myself free-wheelin’
Finally dropped into low range and finished my run...just a little slower

 

[doublewide]

I replaced mine last year. Replaced the selector switch in cab too and Lucas Oil full synthetic for the rear diff.

Did you have to grind your shift fork?

 

[Labparamour]

I did use the template and a hand file and just hit the end to round it off a bit.

 

[Labparamour]

For anyone needing a part #.