Driveline Brake Austin Western Super 300

[BrianGrenier]

Hi Experts!

Can someone help with advice on a Driveline Brake on this ol Iron. Maybe the post should be in the old iron forum, haha

Austin Western Super 300, 60's model has a drum brake inline with the driveline and I cannot figure out how to back off the brake shoes so that I can remove the drum.

A couple of pictures are attached. One picture (on the right) shows the port where I thought I would find an adjustment. Theother pic shows the drum with brake shoes inside.

 

[lantraxco]

Guessing that oval port on the face of the drum itself is for access to the adjuster, which should be 180 degrees opposite the actuator which is no doubt a shaft with a lever, or is it cable? Any pictures of the rest of the backing plate?

 

[BrianGrenier]

Right and thanks, maybe I just need to bump the motor till I can get access to the adjuster from the face of the drum through one of the small ports on the face of the drum.

The backing of the drum has smaller ovals that look like a typical actuator adjuster but there isn't an adjuster. there is only the brake shoe to be seen through one of the two small oval ports.

By rotating the face of the drum and line it up with the other smaller oval, there should be an adjuster there

 

[lantraxco]

No, I think those small windows on the back are to check the remaining lining thickness?

Like I said, wherever the actuator is should be the cam for the moving end of the shoes, the adjuster should be 180 opposite, unless it's weird and has singles either side of the actuator....

 

[BrianGrenier]

Quite right, adjustment is 180 degrees away from the actuator. Actuator is at the top and adjustment is at the bottom.

The adjustment is backed all the way off but drum is not coming off. No fasteners left so I'm figuring rust is holding it on.

 

[Tones]

It's more than possible the drum has worn and the shoes are inside a lip on the outer edge of the drum and it can be a bugger to remove.

 

[lantraxco]

If you have not, remove whatever actuates the brake and make sure the cam is at it's flattest spot. The shoes may be hung up, or the springs may have rusted away.

Ummm, why do you need to remove the drum?

 

[BrianGrenier]

Ummm, why do you need to remove the drum?

This 6x6 has a hydraulic brake on the front drive line output shaft.

This year, before winter snowplowing season, I thought I would get the brakes working. So to get the slave cylinder off it looks like it requires getting this drum off.

Previous years, not having brakes has gotten me into trouble twice and I thought I would buy a little insurance with some Sweat Equity but it looks like it would be a lot easier just to not have brakes as usual:

There's another thread on this forum where a guy asked a question similar to mine. it seemed like he removed both input and output shaft sides of the drum, if I read it right, basically removed the drum, then pressed the drum off, I guess on a bench. Wait a second, lantraxco, it was you who posted on this one here's a link

http://graders54.rssing.com/browser.php?indx=5545458&item=267

 

[lantraxco]

Well, I do get around, not sure I add much to the solutions, lol

I think his drum was stuck on the flange pilot, does yours move but won't come over the brake shoes, or is it maybe stuck on the drive flange also?

 

[BrianGrenier]

Well, I do get around, not sure I add much to the solutions, lol

I think his drum was stuck on the flange pilot, does yours move but won't come over the brake shoes, or is it maybe stuck on the drive flange also?

On the first picture, I show the drum with the flange coming through it leading to the front axles. The drum rotates around the brake shoes, but is still firmly attached to that flange after removing all the obvious bolts on the front of the drum. So I guess the short answer is: stuck!

 

[Delmer]

So the drum is stuck tight on the inside diameter. Might or might not clear the brake shoes, but you're not there yet.

The other guy took the "assembly" off and pressed the drum off, sounds like. I'd try to pry that drum off any which way you can, pry bars in between the drum and backing plate then smack that inside flange to work it loose. Use a little heat on the drum. Penetrating oil, heat, force and vibration.

 

[Mobiltech]

When I get a drum stuck on like that I pound on the painted face of the drum ( driveshaft side) from side to side to get it rocking on the flange. Add heat and penetrating oil as needed. Use both at the same time if you want a good smoke show.

 

[BrianGrenier]

Thanks for all the tips!

I setup a come-along from the frame to the face of the drum, a couple of cranks of the handle, a sucking sound and the drum came off.

So there's a lot of rust back in there but very little wear no lip on the drum.

Thanks again:

 

[lantraxco]

Well done! :drinkup