Dozer moving:

[1693TA]

Dozer has taken to "making oil" again in the crankcase. The front seals on the Roosa-Master DC pump have been replaced twice so don't know what is going on there. The pump was rebuilt by a reputable shop in south central IL a few years ago and has been back off the engine twice since then for this same problem. I'm going to pull it again sending it in to a shop I know and trust quite well as seemingly something has been missed? I know the dual umbrella seals have been replaced using the proper tool for installation so kind of lost as to a cause right now.

I always check oil cold before engine start and the level was right on "full". I then noticed the stick being about a pint high over the "full" mark after engine idling for just about an hour of warming for fluids change. Will get this addressed before progressing further. Tractor runs, drives, up and downshifts smartly, turns, and tracks tension up just fine so hoping this is a simple problem to be followed by a good routine service. The brakes do not grab and are even side to side upon application. I did notice a seepage oil leak in the transmission shifting quadrant which will require some access panels removal to isolate. Not a drip or run, just seepage at this time but will get it addressed regardless.

After service, a good pressure washing is in order. Cabbaging onto an idea from a friend there are probably going to be side curtains made to shield the engine and direct some air blast into the operator compartment for cold weather operation.

 

[skyking1]

For me, if I can get some air across my feet I do OK. Damn feet just freeze up.

 

[Bluox]

Dozer has taken to "making oil" again in the crankcase. The front seals on the Roosa-Master DC pump have been replaced twice so don't know what is going on there. The pump was rebuilt by a reputable shop in south central IL a few years ago and has been back off the engine twice since then for this same problem. I'm going to pull it again sending it in to a shop I know and trust quite well as seemingly something has been missed? I know the dual umbrella seals have been replaced using the proper tool for installation so kind of lost as to a cause right now.

I always check oil cold before engine start and the level was right on "full". I then noticed the stick being about a pint high over the "full" mark after engine idling for just about an hour of warming for fluids change. Will get this addressed before progressing further. Tractor runs, drives, up and downshifts smartly, turns, and tracks tension up just fine so hoping this is a simple problem to be followed by a good routine service. The brakes do not grab and are even side to side upon application. I did notice a seepage oil leak in the transmission shifting quadrant which will require some access panels removal to isolate. Not a drip or run, just seepage at this time but will get it addressed regardless.

After service, a good pressure washing is in order. Cabbaging onto an idea from a friend there are probably going to be side curtains made to shield the engine and direct some air blast into the operator compartment for cold weather operation.

Oil will 'swell up' when it warms up so I would check it cold again before assuming the pump is leaking.
If the oil is blacker take a white paper towel and drip a couple of drops of hot oil on it. If the drops look like a bullseye , a dark spot in a lighter circle you have diesel in the oil.
Bob

 

[1693TA]

Thanks Bob, I will try that next time I have the engine warming. Prior owner told me the last time he noticed the problem the crankcase was almost two quarts high and the pump seals were found to be torn when the pump was removed. This photo is the actual seal which keeps diesel out of the crankcase after removal. It was installed at pump rebuild time. I'm assured it was not "ripped" out during the extraction:

 

[1693TA]

For me, if I can get some air across my feet I do OK. Damn feet just freeze up.

Same with me. I'm a victim of frostbite several years ago and the feet are tender in the colder months. Double socks and waterproof boots are a necessity for me when moving snow as example.

Dozer originally had a soft sided enclosure for the operator compartment but I don't have it. I'll make another via granddaughters whom love to sew. The mounts and attachment points can be seen in this photo:

 

[Bluox]

Thanks Bob, I will try that next time I have the engine warming. Prior owner told me the last time he noticed the problem the crankcase was almost two quarts high and the pump seals were found to be torn when the pump was removed. This photo is the actual seal which keeps diesel out of the crankcase after removal. It was installed at pump rebuild time. I'm assured it was not "ripped" out during the extraction:

View attachment 246948

I'm quite familiar with those seals I've installed a load of them even have the proper tools .
Most of the time the shaft stays on the motor and the seals are installed when the pump is put back on the motor.
The last one I dealt with had that seal rolled so tight I had to use a pry bar to get the pump off the shaft.
The best part there was a new set of seals wired to the pump from the rebuilder.
Bob

 

[Willie B]

Dozer has taken to "making oil" again in the crankcase. The front seals on the Roosa-Master DC pump have been replaced twice so don't know what is going on there. The pump was rebuilt by a reputable shop in south central IL a few years ago and has been back off the engine twice since then for this same problem. I'm going to pull it again sending it in to a shop I know and trust quite well as seemingly something has been missed? I know the dual umbrella seals have been replaced using the proper tool for installation so kind of lost as to a cause right now.

I always check oil cold before engine start and the level was right on "full". I then noticed the stick being about a pint high over the "full" mark after engine idling for just about an hour of warming for fluids change. Will get this addressed before progressing further. Tractor runs, drives, up and downshifts smartly, turns, and tracks tension up just fine so hoping this is a simple problem to be followed by a good routine service. The brakes do not grab and are even side to side upon application. I did notice a seepage oil leak in the transmission shifting quadrant which will require some access panels removal to isolate. Not a drip or run, just seepage at this time but will get it addressed regardless.

After service, a good pressure washing is in order. Cabbaging onto an idea from a friend there are probably going to be side curtains made to shield the engine and direct some air blast into the operator compartment for cold weather operation.

Does it have reversible blades on the fan? My Dresser crawler, I can reverse the blades to push through the radiator in summer, and pull through it to rear in winter. I confess I'm very cold in winter, very hot in summer anyway.

 

[1693TA]

From the parts manual, the standard fan was a pusher type. A "Huber" reversible fan was an option but I don't know what is on there as haven't looked. I'll have to make it a point to see what I have tomorrow. I see in the parts manual where the fan is driven from the camshaft so would be reverse rotation as if driven by the crankshaft.

 

[1693TA]

I'm quite familiar with those seals I've installed a load of them even have the proper tools .
Most of the time the shaft stays on the motor and the seals are installed when the pump is put back on the motor.
The last one I dealt with had that seal rolled so tight I had to use a pry bar to get the pump off the shaft.
The best part there was a new set of seals wired to the pump from the rebuilder.
Bob

I stopped by the fuel shop this afternoon and he gave me a new pair of seals. Would have loaned me the proper tools if didn't already have them but he said to lube them up well before installing, along with the bore they slide into with a "Q-tip". He cautioned to not "nick" them going into the bore also. I asked if petroleum jelly would be a good lube and the reply was "probably", but he also gave me a small bottle of a Stanadyne branded product to use. I purchased a new kit of the injection line crush washers should I need to take it back apart, and you are correct in that the driveshaft stays in the drive gear on the engine. He did not have the O ring denoted as #3 shown here as it is an Allis part, so will be matched up at the seal house if anything special:



This shows the pump drive shaft separated from the pump:

 

[1693TA]

Does it have reversible blades on the fan? My Dresser crawler, I can reverse the blades to push through the radiator in summer, and pull through it to rear in winter. I confess I'm very cold in winter, very hot in summer anyway.

I don't overheat easily in the summer months, but certainly prefer to be warm in the colder ones; especially as I age.

In my shop I have a couple of Red Dot auxiliary heating units from original school bus applications, and their respective control panels. One of these could be mounted in the operator cabin, but I've not measured anything up yet for fitment. I also have a single electric element heater of about 18" long which could be mounted to the inner side of the roof panel of the ROPS and discharge down in direction too. This would probably serve as a window defroster.

 

[1693TA]

Checked the oil cold and it is growing in level for certain. Smells a bit like fuel also when cold. I did the paper towel trick but it's kinda dark but not definitive as far as fuel saturation. Went ahead and pulled the pump and the inner seal which keeps the fuel out of the crankcase is compromised. Kinda "rolled" as Bob stated but I was able to pull the pump by hand. The supplied line washers are definitely different than the ones installed after the pump rebuild and subsequent reuse by the prior owner. It will be nice to have this one wrapped as one of the lines, (I think #1 cylinder) was prone to leak.

I'll drop the pump at the fuel shop in the morning to ensure it is "right" before it goes back on.

Thanks,

 

[mks]

1693ta, I was a controller at zau when a fire broke out in the basement. All the groups who moved the system to different facilities and back and did the work in zau did an incredible job to say the least. Well done!!
Edit add, I do appreciate all that you and your peers have done in a system with many different challenges.

 

[skyking1]

I did not know you worked at Chicago, @mks Cool!
I was out of the system all the times I came though the area. VFR and below/around/avoiding the big mix of traffics. I'd get flight following when it made sense to do so.

 

[1693TA]

I remember the time well; and the circumstances behind it. I was in front of the cabinets the week prior on a temporary detail job. Hundreds of manhours rerouting circuits and feeds from ZAU to ZKC, ZID, etc. and all the rework once that temporary work was done to restore normal. I was up there unloading and staging, and did a bit of work under the floors routing and interconnecting replacement equipment. Knew everyone in the SOC, many in the maintenance dept., and they me very well. I worked out of QUZ, and PIA maintaining the radar equipment and feeds for years. Much easier prior to FTI becoming involved, but progress as they say.....

 

[1693TA]

Pump removed from engine and will drop at fuel shop this morning:

 

[1693TA]

Nothing wrong with the pump on the test stand. Timing advance works well and fuel delivery is well within specifications for the calibration. Willl try to get by there again this afternoon but may be tomorrow.

 

[1693TA]

Couldn't get by to pick up my pump today as quite distant from it on a delivery. Tomorrow is another day and I've received hydraulic hose couplers for an adaption to get the backhoe back to the shop.