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does the john deere 6675 skid steer have a fuel primer?

sgrams

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Joined
Apr 14, 2014
Messages
21
Location
MN
You don't have to take the glow plugs out, just disconnect the wire at each one and test them with an ohm meter (multimeter). They should be pretty close in ohms. You can even test the whole lot of them hooked together if you have the spec and trust your meter.

Alright, I am counting on the filter being the culprit but I will test the plugs as long as I am in there, try to anyway.
 

stovein

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Jan 29, 2010
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n.e. mn
You have already replaced or at least drained the water separator filter by the radiator ,right?
 

sgrams

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Apr 14, 2014
Messages
21
Location
MN
You have already replaced or at least drained the water separator filter by the radiator ,right?

I am a rookie with this so I've circled the filter that I believe you are referring too?:

skid 1a.jpg

I will see if I can drain it.

Thank you for the suggestion.
 

stovein

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Jd must be different in that way, on the new Holland the water separator/filter is in the radiator compartment right behind the shiny fuel pump and has a petcock on the bottom.
 

sgrams

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Apr 14, 2014
Messages
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Location
MN
Jd must be different in that way, on the new Holland the water separator/filter is in the radiator compartment right behind the shiny fuel pump and has a petcock on the bottom.

Replacing the fuel filter didn't help in the starting although I feel better about having the correct filter in the fuel line and it might give the engine a little more power during loads (or its just my imagination). I tried loosening the fuel separator but it was too tight and I didn't think to look for a petcock but I will be going back again this weekend so I will drain it while changing oil now that I have the correct numbers for the oil and air filters, I have the serial numbers for the engine and engine model, its much nicer working on it outside now that its finally in the sixties and some sun. I ran across this website which will help too but I realize I need to buy a parts/technical manual:

http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMKV11661_J0/Output/kv11661j05.html#41156

there I found this about the water separator and priming, no wonder I couldn't find a plunger or priming rod:
View attachment 119039

and I couldn't find any wires leading to glow plugs, only fuel lines leading to the top of each cylinder.
 
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stovein

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Jan 29, 2010
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165
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n.e. mn
If you have no glow plugs there is probably a grid heater in the intake . I think almost all have some cold start aid now. Dealer should be able to tell you and if it is a intake heater they should point you toward the relay and solenoid that controls it.
 

sgrams

Member
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Apr 14, 2014
Messages
21
Location
MN
Did you read the part about the cold start intake heater in the manual link?

Yes I did, I've held it for the recommended time, if I shut the machine off and start it within minutes it fires right up but if it sits for more than just a few minutes even though it is still warm the engine requires at least a couple of tries before it runs, its as though no fuel is available. I will be changing oil (going with full-synthetic) and new air filter this coming weekend then use it for a few things. I suppose I need to spend the money and call the John Deere dealer about getting a service manual for this exact machine. I will report back with anything I find.
 

stovein

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Not the same thing but I had a chevy truck that did that and it turned out to be a pinhole leak in the riser tube in the tank. You could tee in a pressure gauge on the fuel line to see if it is leaking back after shutdown. The chevy had a fitting on the fuel rail to do just that.
 

sgrams

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Apr 14, 2014
Messages
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MN
Not the same thing but I had a chevy truck that did that and it turned out to be a pinhole leak in the riser tube in the tank. You could tee in a pressure gauge on the fuel line to see if it is leaking back after shutdown. The chevy had a fitting on the fuel rail to do just that.

You know that's a good idea, it could be the hose anywhere in the line, but you are saying inside the tank? Any idea what size that fuel line would be? I'll be going there tomorrow and I would pick up a few feet today before work. I'm thinking 1/8 inch inside diameter.
 

stovein

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If there is a check valve in the tank it could be bad. It could only be leaking back through a pinhole if it were in the tank of course. I would guess the line to be about 1/4 inch dia.
 

sgrams

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Apr 14, 2014
Messages
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Location
MN
A quick update: I changed the fuel line and the problem was much worse, it required 3 times the amount of tries to keep the engine running which made me believe the system needed to be bled, did that with some help from a friend and the unit started almost immediately (2 tries when cold), but after letting it sit for awhile again the same problem, I bought a manual and see a air check valve which is part of the automatic bleed system if the unit is run out of fuel so thinking that is bad (after all its over twenty years old) I have that coming at this time. The manual was expensive but it will be a good resource.
 

sgrams

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Apr 14, 2014
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Just a quick update: I replaced the air check valve which made no difference. Tomorrow I will replace the metal fuel tube that goes into the fuel tank which was suggested earlier, I ordered it new and the supplier called it "vintage", I suppose I am fortunate to find one, I will post back.
 

sgrams

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Apr 14, 2014
Messages
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MN
The old tube had quite a bit of flaky rust around the top few inches but no evident holes, the new tube didn't make any difference. The next step is have a mechanic look at it.
 

Belooky

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Apr 9, 2014
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Location
South Carolina
Any chance you can get someone to go with you to help you? And an air compressor. I've got an idea that I had a similar problem with one of my machines once. Didn't think about it when I first posted here. The problem was it would get a small piece of trash in the line. Sometimes it would run perfectly fine. Others I assume the trash would get stopped up and it would do just how you explain. If you can get access to a helper and an air compressor just to satisfy my curiosity give this a try. With someone in the cab to turn the starter take a blow gun on your air hose and wrap a rag around the nozzle. Use the rag to seal the top of the gas tank and stick the nozzle in it. Blow some pressure through it to pressurize the tank and lines. If you get a good seal give it 10-15 seconds of air then have the helper try to start it.
 

sgrams

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Joined
Apr 14, 2014
Messages
21
Location
MN
Any chance you can get someone to go with you to help you? And an air compressor. I've got an idea that I had a similar problem with one of my machines once. Didn't think about it when I first posted here. The problem was it would get a small piece of trash in the line. Sometimes it would run perfectly fine. Others I assume the trash would get stopped up and it would do just how you explain. If you can get access to a helper and an air compressor just to satisfy my curiosity give this a try. With someone in the cab to turn the starter take a blow gun on your air hose and wrap a rag around the nozzle. Use the rag to seal the top of the gas tank and stick the nozzle in it. Blow some pressure through it to pressurize the tank and lines. If you get a good seal give it 10-15 seconds of air then have the helper try to start it.

Thank you for the reply, with no recent replies I wasn't sure anyone was still interested.

This past Tuesday I had a mechanic in the area meet me to have a look at the machine, he is a John Deere mechanic and also farms. After a bit of looking around he noticed what I believe is called a "fuel shutoff solenoid" not working properly, he would have me turn the key on and show me how the solenoid would not engage to allow the flow of fuel unless pushed in manually, when he would have me turn the key he would push in the the solenoid rod and the engine would start. The cost of the solenoid is expensive at $140 plus there will be labor costs, I wanted to have the job completed before I report back here what the solution to the problem is.

I believe the mechanic will be replacing the solenoid yet this week and I will post back.
 

sgrams

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Apr 14, 2014
Messages
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Location
MN
Replacing the solenoid didn't help the starting, hard to believe, so the mechanic took the machine to his shop, I didn't need it for a while and he could work on it in between other jobs, he had it for a couple of weeks.

Alright, almost a final to this thread. I got the machine back a few days ago, it starts up on the second try but then I haven't started it up after its been setting overnight. The mechanic was able to take out all four fuel injectors, they required a lot of patience to get out because they were very tight, probably never been out before. Anyway, the injector farthest from the back of the engine was slightly scored so he cleaned them all up best he could, he wanted to take them into a specialty shop but I needed to use the machine so he put them all back in with anti-seize, the plan is to take them out at a later time and have them checked. After cleaning out the tank of some rust flakes from the fuel tube and again replacing the filters and cleaning the fuel injectors the machine starts and runs better than before. The problem of hard starting was probably a combination of things (lack of maintenance), I will post back when I know more about how the machine cold starts but I expect it to be a good starter.
 
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JD8875

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Apr 8, 2010
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Harrisonville, Missouri
A bad injector could definitely cause the machine to be hard to start and or keep running. A bad injector can also erode the top of the piston over time, cause a loss of power, increase fuel consumption and a host of other issues. On my 8875 the injectors are about $80 each to replace from JD. At that price you cant afford to pay someone to rebuild them or work on them very much. Not sure if the 6675 is a 3 cylinder like the 8875 or not but if it's lame on 1 out 3 that would cause lots of problems.

Good Luck
John
 

sgrams

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Apr 14, 2014
Messages
21
Location
MN
I agree that $80/injector is probably one hour of labor at a specialty shop and then they are still old, I don't know what the price is for an injector for the 6675 but I will find out from the mechanic that worked on it and maybe get them myself and have him install them, there are four injectors. I'm just so thankful that this may have been the problem and not the injector pump.

I am keeping this thread going in the event someone else experiences the same problem, I heard many things here and outside this thread and some of them outside sounded bad.
 
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