Dissapointed in failed repair of front leaking plantary on 4WD 580SL

[69zfarmer]

I just tried a couple of days ago to replace the large seal that keeps Hytran from leaking.Everything went well i thought untill it immediately started leaking again.I sorta cheated and got a cheaper seal from another source than CASE dealer but i sliped it up on sealing surface before i drove it in hub and it fit tight.What could i have done wrong and could the leak be coming out of the seal from axle coming out of the front frontend?Kinda scared to order the $128 one from CASE and re licking my calf thinking the leak may be from other problem.

 

[Hardline]

When you diag the leak was it coming from the hub seal or the axle seal?

 

[69zfarmer]

I thought leak was coming from hub because it was empty and there was oil all over the back of the wheel rim.Also you could tell the plug that checks and fills planetary had been screwed out alot of times.

 

[CCompanies]

I thought leak was coming from hub because it was empty and there was oil all over the back of the wheel rim.Also you could tell the plug that checks and fills planetary had been screwed out alot of times.

All my work on the farm and my equipment, oil on the back of the wheel rim looks to me to be a bad axle seal.

 

[Hardline]

Was it peaking at the hub to knuckle interface or the knuckle to axle?

 

[Deon]

CCompanies,
The Deere in you profile photo looks like mine. What model an year is it and how many hours? Has it been a good machine? Have you had it long?
Thanks

Deon

 

[CCompanies]

CCompanies,
The Deere in you profile photo looks like mine. What model an year is it and how many hours? Has it been a good machine? Have you had it long?
Thanks

Deon

That is a 1996 310D with 4200hrs. Other than rebuilding the water pump in the winter of 2010, and replacing a relay, its been a good machine. I bought it used, and have only put a little money into it for correcting non essential deficiencies (missing window latch, missing armrest etc.).

 

[Deon]

That is a 1996 310D with 4200hrs. Other than rebuilding the water pump in the winter of 2010, and replacing a relay, its been a good machine. I bought it used, and have only put a little money into it for correcting non essential deficiencies (missing window latch, missing armrest etc.).

Well CCompanies,
You can keep that nice machine for a long time. I've got 9,000 hrs on mine. Doesn't burn oil and is still a nice solid machine. I have replaced cylinder seals and pins and bushings and recovered the seat, but it's got the hrs. I can't complain.

 

[CCompanies]

Well CCompanies,
You can keep that nice machine for a long time. I've got 9,000 hrs on mine. Doesn't burn oil and is still a nice solid machine. I have replaced cylinder seals and pins and bushings and recovered the seat, but it's got the hrs. I can't complain.

Deon,

I believe the next maintenance item will be to reseal the boom hyraulics. Not leaking yet, but its integrity isn't what it used to be.

I'm in the market for another backhoe to expand the snow removal portion of the business, and I wont buy anything but Deere. I just can't beat the dealer services, price point, and their reputation.

 

[Tinkerer]

69zfarmer, Is it possible that you installed the new seal with the lip of it facing the wrong way ?

 

[69zfarmer]

It is leaking from another place i have figured out.How many other seals are they in that area of front wheel?

 

[alrman]

There is the hub seal - you replaced.
The flange - sealed by silicone / RTV
Axle shaft seals x 2 - one at the hub & another in the main axle..... Problem with these is - the king pins must be removed to remove the trunion & drive axle.
If these are leaking the oil will be leaking from the CV joint area.

 

[69zfarmer]

This is very helpful alrman.I am almost sure it is the axle shaft seal at the hub.How much trouble to repair and can you help me with a link?Removing king pins sounds like a big job.

 

[alrman]

How much trouble to repair and can you help me with a link?Removing king pins sounds like a big job.

King pins (some are 3 bolt retainers & some are 4) can be a little stubborn to remove - see my comment here at post #9 https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/showthread.php?28653-Front-axle-needed-for-Case-590L-4wd

Check the axle shafts for wear as they often have grooves worn in them at the seal areas. I normally have these repaired at a machine shop, they are metal sprayed & machined back to new spec.
There's a good chance the king pin bearings will need replacing also, especially the bottom one.

 

[CCompanies]

The kingpins will no doubt be a PITA to get off. If you look at them, they should have some sort of notch where the flat part bolts into the hub assembly. Thats where you'll need to start to get them off.

 

[Hendrik]

The kingpins will no doubt be a PITA to get off. If you look at them, they should have some sort of notch where the flat part bolts into the hub assembly. That's where you'll need to start to get them off.

Yeah I helped a mate fix a leak on his Nissan patrol the other day, the top king pin was easy but the bottom one was really hard and required the blunt tool. The bearing was pitted but serviceable, as it is not in a high speed application. Ordinarily I would have replaced it or swapped with the top one but he was happy enough to fit the old one back in, also swapping with the top one may have been difficult if the bearing cups got damage during removal.

 

[69zfarmer]

I don't know caused this seal to go bad since the machine has only 1800 hrs. on it.It came from Florida and i am finding alot of sand stuck to underside so the sand may have damaged the seal.If axle is not groved can i leave it in and not have to change the other seal towards differental in frontend?

 

[CCompanies]

I don't know caused this seal to go bad since the machine has only 1800 hrs. on it.It came from Florida and i am finding alot of sand stuck to underside so the sand may have damaged the seal.If axle is not groved can i leave it in and not have to change the other seal towards differental in frontend?

If the axle is not grooved, you can leave it the way it is. The only seal that should need to be replaced is the outer one, which is easy to replace, once the hub assembly and axle are pulled out.

Sand may have something to do with it. The last time i did a seal replacement was on a John Deere 5325 tractor. I did one side, and a month later, the other side needed replacement. The farm uses it daily and it operates in very muddy, soupy, and dry conditions. It had probably had around 2500 hrs on it.

 

[alrman]

I don't know caused this seal to go bad since the machine has only 1800 hrs. on it.It came from Florida and i am finding alot of sand stuck to underside so the sand may have damaged the seal.If axle is not groved can i leave it in and not have to change the other seal towards differental in frontend?

If I repair an oil leak at an axle seal, I always do them both. Chances are - the one you don't replace, if it wasn't leaking before the repair, it will start not long afterward.
From previous experience, if sand is involved, the shafts will likely be worn.

TIPS 1) - Don't skimp on the seals! Use genuine Case or Carraro seals - they are super heavy duty & include a felt wiper. There is no equivalent aftermarket replacement for them at any bearing supplier that I have ever found.

2) Make sure the breather on the main axle housing is not blocked - the extra pressure doesn't help the situation.

 

[69zfarmer]

Great!! both sides are leaking now I checked my vent a couple of days ago (thank you alrman)and it was stoped up.When i screwed it out a rush of air came out.I thought maybe now that it can vent my leaks would stop but i was wrong still leaking.I am hoping the axle shafts will not be groved and need repairing since the leaks were probally caused by pressure in the main axle front end housing blowing the seals out.