Detroit Question

[grandkobelco]

Back in the 70's I was a trainee machanic at a gravel company, a old michigan laoder came screeming down the haul road at more than top rpm in reverse with the bucket draging down the road so he could controll it, he parked in front of the repair shop climbed out and ran screeming " it wont shut off, I cant shut it off"!!. A very old machanic, as calm as you can beleive, walked out to the loader with a crecent wrench in his pocket and one hex at a time took loose the fuel line at the fuel fillter. As the engine slowly died he said" that'el killer" Many years later when I was overhauling 71 seires for a trucking company my favoret part was adjusting the high rpm, evan the secretarys would leave the office LOL!

 

[Scott S]

Gawd don't nobody tell him he should change the main bearings at this time....

Or tell him that you can in-frame a Detroit 4-53......


Or buy the cylinders and pistons already loaded....

Or instead of getting the valves done exchange the head for a rebuilt.....

 

[trakloader]

Gawd don't nobody tell him he should change the main bearings at this time....

Or tell him that you can in-frame a Detroit 4-53......


Or buy the cylinders and pistons already loaded....

Or instead of getting the valves done exchange the head for a rebuilt.....

No kidding, most Jimmies are done in-frame, at least the ones I've seen. Even 12V71's. They always send the heads out and exchange them with rebuilt ones, and yes, the pistons come fully assembled with rings.

 

[willie59]

I've done a 4-53 in-frame, but that's only because it didn't need anything else, had no front axle in the way of removing oil pan, and...it didn't need crank bearings as Scott S suggested should be done at this time in his post. You can't replace crank bearing with engine still attached to something on the flywheel.

 

[chevota84]

You can't just spin them out like a 3406 or Cummins?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

 

[lg junior]

Gawd don't nobody tell him he should change the main bearings at this time....

Or tell him that you can in-frame a Detroit 4-53......


Or buy the cylinders and pistons already loaded....

Or instead of getting the valves done exchange the head for a rebuilt.....

Where do you get cylinders and pistons already loaded? And if you do how do you get the connecting rod attached since the 4-53 is a trunk style piston not a crosshead like say the 8v92. I currently have 13 detroits thats counting the 4 series 60's in the trucks, quite possibly might be a character flaw. I've overhauled just about everyone I've had since '75 and the 4-53 and 6v-53 are probably my favorite 2 strokes. I always tried to stay away from exchange heads on the 53's they are not hard to do a valve job on and one should change the injector tubes anyway (the coppers). Without knowing if an exchange head has new valves your just taking a big gamble since the 53's have a habit of the valves coming apart. I always used to change the keepers too, saw too many catastrophic failures when brother was with the detroit dealer here in town.

 

[Scott S]

I've done a 4-53 in-frame, but that's only because it didn't need anything else, had no front axle in the way of removing oil pan, and...it didn't need crank bearings as Scott S suggested should be done at this time in his post. You can't replace crank bearing with engine still attached to something on the flywheel.

I have in-inframed several Clark skidders and a couple of carrier mount log loaders with 4-53's, you can spin out the shells easily with-out disconnecting the flywheel. For most skidders getting the front end out of the way is easy, disconnect the drive-line and brake lines(if any) pull the center pins, then put blocks under the blade and lift the skidder up to get enough clearance.

 

[Scott S]

When you purchase the pistons "loaded" in effect you are exchanging the rods. The pistons come already in the sleeves with the rods hanging out the bottom. You just take the old pistons and sleeves out, remove the old o-rings, clean the grooves, lubricate the new o-rings, orientate the new rods properly and slip the assembly in place. Just a note, I used to cut a couple of short pieces of rubber hose to slip over the rod bolt studs to be sure I didn't mar the crank throws.

 

[lg junior]

When you purchase the pistons "loaded" in effect you are exchanging the rods. The pistons come already in the sleeves with the rods hanging out the bottom. You just take the old pistons and sleeves out, remove the old o-rings, clean the grooves, lubricate the new o-rings, orientate the new rods properly and slip the assembly in place. Just a note, I used to cut a couple of short pieces of rubber hose to slip over the rod bolt studs to be sure I didn't mar the crank throws.

Well, where do you get loaded kits I've bought hundreds and hundreds of kits and rods none were ever assembled. Believe me with a brother working for detroit diesels west coast dealer I've seen whats available, or are they aftermarket parts, I can tell you some problems with those. After seeing some of the reman parts you really need to check any rebuilt part very carefully, warranty or not it only covers the part not the damaqe to your engine or labor. The only reason to change rods is if the wrist pin bearing are worn and they very rarely cause problems, if they are bad you had better be looking deeper for other issues. And if you have a bearing failure always change the oil cooler core no ifs or buts.

 

[Scott S]

I used to use Pacific Diesel in Portland, the shop loaded the sleeves for a small charge. A great time and headache savings.

 

[lg junior]

Pacific Diesel now Pacific Power down here does'nt even have anyone that knows what a two-stroke is let alone how to work on one. Sad to say the two-strokes day is gone sadder the series 60 is also. How do you check liner heighth with kits assembled? Pain in the a--.