• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

Deere quick attach actuator not working

suladas

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2016
Messages
1,731
Location
Canada
Actuator for quick attach is shorted so trying to replace it, OEM is stupidly priced so just trying to match it up, I am wondering how many lbs force do I need? And it is ok to go with one that will not be fully retracted? I can find one with the right stroke length, but retracted length is short, so was thinking of jumping up to longer stroke. The OEM is 14.5 to 20.5, replacement i'm looking at is 12.5 retracted 20.5 extended.
 

suladas

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2016
Messages
1,731
Location
Canada
Bought a new actuator and it doesn't work either. I get power to the wires with switch on, but with the switch one way both wires have power? If i'm not mistaken shouldn't 1 wire have power 1 way and the other wire the other way? When I first hooked up the old actuator it had no power so I replaced inline fuse and it made a noise one way for a few seconds but nothing since and fuse is still good?
 

suladas

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2016
Messages
1,731
Location
Canada
Thank you for that, the one has a tiny hole it in both look pretty bad so will just replace them. Also a question about my other thread, I replaced the solenoid for aux hydraulics but I left the old one out over the weekend and lost like 6L of hydraulic oil, should I be priming anything before starting machine?
 

mg2361

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
5,159
Location
Pennsylvania
Occupation
Equipment Mechanic
What I do is with the cab up and looking in to the right of the engine, unplug the injector harness from the rear side of the block (it will generate codes). Cab back down. Plug a gauge into the diagnostic quick connect at the hydraulic filter and crank the engine for 15 seconds, rest, repeat until I see positive pressure on the gauge. Then plug injector harness in, clear the codes, start and make sure your pressure is good (500-700 psi). Let it idle for a few minutes to let it bleed any air out. Done.
 
Last edited:

suladas

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2016
Messages
1,731
Location
Canada
What I do is with the cab up and looking in to the right of the engine, unplug the injector harness from the rear side of the block (it will generate codes). Cab back down. Plug a gauge into the diagnostic quick connect at the hydraulic filter and crank the engine for 15 seconds, rest, repeat until I see positive pressure on the gauge. Then plug injector harness in, clear the codes, start and make sure your pressure is good (500-700 psi). Let it idle for a few minutes to let it bleed any air out. Done.

Perfect thanks, I am always terrified of taking out a pump from lack of oil anytime i'm dealing with hydraulics. I wondered what that connector was for.
 

suladas

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2016
Messages
1,731
Location
Canada
Relays replaced and actuator works, solenoid in for aux hydraulics and it works both ways! Appreciate the help, very happy that all issues with machine are fixed now. Well except for the slow leak in the drive motor....
 

suladas

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2016
Messages
1,731
Location
Canada
Guess I spoke too soon. Actuator worked fine yesterday a few times just opening/closing with nothing there but today when I go to hook up attachment blows fuse, does it a few times then stops blowing it and maybe moves an inch before stopping and then just totally stopped working. So guess i'm replacing actuator too.
 
Top