Deere 333d not driving right

[Austin9159]

Bought this machine a little while back, had to tear the hyd system down to replace the pump and clean all the lines out. Runs and operates good for the most part. Issue I’m having in when it’s cold it drives good but when it gets hot it starts to not want to pull correctly. I’ll push the joystick forward and it doesn’t move them let off and goes for a second. It’s usable but not enjoyable. It gets much worse when the high flow is on, because I’ll try and barely go forward and it lunges then slows, lunges then slows. It’s like the solenoids go wide open then back off or the high flow is back feeding?. I tried to calibrate it but it fails every time, no codes or errors, just says fwd calibration fail. I’ve checked the drive solenoids and all are within spec. Anything else to check or is this machine going to need a drive pump as well?

 

[mg2361]

Machine serial number please.

At what point does it fail the calibration? Oil level correct? Does it act the same with the controls set to "H" pattern? Attach a picture of the top of your hydrostatic pumps.

 

[Austin9159]

Yes oil level is correct. It turns the tracks for a minute or 2 then fails. They speed up, slow down, one side turns then the other turns like it’s going through the procedure and after a little bit it fails. I’ll have to try to swapping controls over to H.

 

[mg2361]

Please post the serial number.

You scrolled through the monitor and there are no active or stored codes?

When the drive starts to act up, does the loader hydraulics still work well?

When performing a calibration, the monitor is directing you on what to do. At which point specifically does the calibration say fail. After performing the "Calibrating FWD and REV Thresholds"? Calibrating FWD MAX Speed?

Do you have gauges to check the charge pressure?

 

[Austin9159]

Serial is 1T0333DMVBD205383

No active or stored codes

Loader controls operate smoothly wether hot or cold

I go into calibrate hydrostatic, it then says hold fnr to max fwd and I do, then says calibrating fwd threshold, tracks turn for a little bit then it says failed

I can buy a gauge if needed

 

[mg2361]

Temperatures shouldn't matter with this, but check the wires that go into the pump solenoid connectors. Give them a good tug to see if any wires are broken. If they are broken, it will be real close to or at the connector. You will either pull the wire out, or you will see the insulation stretch if broke.

 

[Austin9159]

Okay I’ll double check that

 

[Austin9159]

Wires are all good, after swapping to H pattern I can tell it’s the right side that doesn’t pull when it gets hot. I think the sporadic jumping is from the left side trying to take the grunt of the work to make it move. Also I put it on a fairly steep hill and it wouldn’t pull itself up. Ended up having to back up and go around to get it back to the house. Guess that means I need a new tandem pump? Is it simple enough to rebuild it myself? I’ve rebuilt the drive motors in a bobcat which was easy since it was just replacing o rings

 

[mg2361]

Guess that means I need a new tandem pump?

No. Not likely.

Being heat related, it might still be one of your solenoids. You could try swapping the right forward solenoid with the right reverse solenoid. Y16 below is for the right side forward along with the one opposite it you can't see for reverse. Did you measure the resistance of that solenoid when the issue was happening?

If swapping the solenoids does not change anything, then charge pressure and multifunction relief pressures need to be checked. Since you do not have gauges and based on your symptoms in the "H" pattern, try below:

 

[Austin9159]

Thank you, I’ll give that a try today or tomorrow. I believe when I measured the solenoid resistance it was when the machine was at operating temp. If memory serves me correct the right side both measured 4.1 and the left ones measured 4.5

 

[Austin9159]

I swapped the solenoids with no change then swapped the reliefs with no change. Something I noticed when I put it in H pattern is that when the right side stalls then push the handle for the left side the left side won’t move as well like I’m making the main relief open. I can push the left side forward or reverse and the machine will do circles but when I push the right side the machine will barely creep and if it’s under a load/on an incline it’ll stall

 

[mg2361]

A test you can perform without gauges. If you remove the two hoses going to the right side motor from the pump, cap the pump with some steel fitting caps. Operate the right side. Does it want to stall the machine?

 

[Austin9159]

I’ll have to buy some caps, do you know the size?

 

[mg2361]

-12 (3/4")

 

[Austin9159]

Okay thanks, I’ll order some and follow up

 

[Austin9159]

Bought some gauges, hooked up and charge pressure at operating temp was around 650-700. I adjusted the relief all the way out and it got down to 550psi. Left side would drop a little then bounce up the 525psi while in use. Right side would drop down to 300psi while in use. Capped off all 4 lines, charge pressure is now 725psi at high idle. Right side drops to around 600psi when engage and the left side drops to 700psi when engaged. There’s about a 100-150psi difference between the sides when stalling them

 

[mg2361]

If you measured 650-700 psi, you could have left it at that. the spec is 500-0700 psi. I'm not concerned with the 100 psi difference with them capped. The drop to 300 psi on the right tells me there is excessive leakage somewhere. What I would like to know is, with the engine at idle, if you can stall the engine with the right side capped, if so, then your issue is in the drive motor. If you could put a 10,000 psi gauge into the forward outlet port of the pump, that could confirm the pump is good. That would show that the pump (this test at fast idle) can reach the high pressure relief setting (4930-5230 psi).

 

[Austin9159]

Well here’s the results, went to the hydraulic shop and got the adaptors to hook a gauge to the drive ports. Right side started off maxing out at 5500psi, by the time the oil temp got to 150°f it seemed to struggle to get 4000psi. Swapped everything to the left forward at 150° as well and it does 5600psi. So I guess that’s settled, I’ll need a new pump? What’s the recommended vendors? Unless it’s worth paying nearly double to John Deere for a new one($7100+ tax) also at idle neither side would stall out the engine. The left side defiantly loaded the engine down and spooled the turbo, the right side was negligible

 

[ozarkag]

I would rebuild that one in house, possibly could get away with having the rotating group lapped. Maybe need a new valve plate, worst case new rotating group. Could definitely send out to be rebuilt, Stoens is one shop we have used.

 

[Austin9159]

I’m willing to do that, have plenty of mechanical ability as I’ve worked on stuff my whole life. Only thing that makes me leery is tearing down the pump, replacing parts, spending the money and still having to send it out because it’s not right. I have the manual which shows the disassembly and assembly which doesn’t seem bad until you start taking out the servo piston. If you think the issues lies in the rotating group then I’ll tear it down and inspect it and order parts as needed