Decent deal? Case 580K

[Grady]

There's no grease fittings where I'm talking about. I guess you could apply grease to the splines on that shaft that sticks out of the front differential and maybe you're supposed to but wouldn't that just hold grit? I'll have to look that up. The u-joints are well greased and have no slop even though that's what it felt like when I grabbed the shaft and shook it to check them. I just don't see how that splined piece that slides on the front diff. shaft could wear so much. I've never seen clearance like that in a drive shaft situation. Just hoping to compare with someone else's machine. Thanks.

The piece in question is splined to match the shaft and has two pinch bolts that I thought should make for a tight fit - or else why have them?

 

[Willie B]

No, mine is tight, I'd bet it'd be a struggle to get it apart. These shafts don't need much variation in length. I didn't crawl around much. If there isn't a slip spline on the other end, it must be like my truck where the end slip is in and out of the transfer case.

If yours is very loose, you'll likely need to replace both yoke, and pinion shaft in the front differential. It sounds worse than it is. Maybe somebody can offer a way to tighten the worn two pieces. I would avoid Locktight unless you have a better fit than I imagine.

 

[Grady]

Hey, thanks for checking that for me. It makes sense that it should be tight. The slip yoke is on the other end and that is greased. I'm hoping that replacing the splined piece with the pinch bolts will be enough and I won't have to get into the differential. I was thinking that making the pinch slot bigger would give me more bite. It's bottomed out now. I'm thinking that piece might be made of softer material than the shaft and did most of the wearing. Wishful thinking at this point. Thanks again.

 

[Delmer]

I was thinking that making the pinch slot bigger would give me more bite.

Might as well give it a try, not much to lose at this point.

 

[Willie B]

It'd be a crude fix. I believe you could use a new pinion flange. Perhaps cut it as you mentioned. If it were assembled on the pinion shaft, you might cut off the pinion to allow at least the leading edge of the new flange to engage the unworn portion of the pinion shaft. If it then won't tighten down on the length of the spline, you will have an exposed end to weld to the flange.

Chamfer both the end of the shaft, and the rearmost end of the bore of the flange. The whole assembly will be a big heat sink. In steel it won't conduct heat far, but great care should be taken to limit the weld heat to that portion of shaft inside the female spline of the flange. I would use 7018 1/8" new. DC electrode positive (reverse polarity), Crank heat to the upper limits of the rod manufacturer's recommendations. Weld a bit, let it cool. Repeat.

The alternative is likely a new pinion, and flange.

 

[Grady]

Thanks for the options and the welding tips. Like Delmer said - not much to lose at this point.