I am looking at buying a D6C with the 3306T engine (140 HP). It has the low ground pressure tracks (36" pads) and a cab with heat. It has 6935 hours and overall the machine looks to be in good condition. I was wondering if there is anything particular I need to watch out for with this model or any tips in general when buying a dozer. Any ideas on the typical price range for a machine like this?
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D6c 3306t
- Thread starter d5cat
- Start date
tctractors
Senior Member
D6C's usualy come sporting the earlier 333C engine, the water pump area is the place to look to sort this detail, plus it would help to have a Serial No tagged to the tractor, so we can work out if its Clutch or P.S. it's running big boots at 36" pads, what has it been used as???
d9gdon
Senior Member
tony and d5cat,
I think the last 2 or 3 years production of the D6C 10K s/n tractors were 3306T. That would be powershift tractors here in the States. I'm guessing but the s/n would be above 10K9000 or so? I know the 76A s/n were powershift machines that preceded the 10K s/n, but both are D6C's.
The undercarriage on a used dozer is the most important thing to consider cause it'll usually be the most expensive thing to replace. You can get the Cat dealer to measure it for you or you can do it yourself if you can read calipers. We can guide you thru it if you want to do that.
In many people's opinions, the D6C was in the top 3 of the all time best dozers that Cat made up to the late 1970's.
I think the last 2 or 3 years production of the D6C 10K s/n tractors were 3306T. That would be powershift tractors here in the States. I'm guessing but the s/n would be above 10K9000 or so? I know the 76A s/n were powershift machines that preceded the 10K s/n, but both are D6C's.
The undercarriage on a used dozer is the most important thing to consider cause it'll usually be the most expensive thing to replace. You can get the Cat dealer to measure it for you or you can do it yourself if you can read calipers. We can guide you thru it if you want to do that.
In many people's opinions, the D6C was in the top 3 of the all time best dozers that Cat made up to the late 1970's.
Nige
Senior Member
One thing to watch out for. If it has 36" track shoes inspect them closely for cracking/bending and be aware that if you do buy it and run the machine with these shoes on hard ground you are heading for trouble. However all is not lost as they can be cut down to 24" without any great difficulty.
I've got the Track Service Handbook if you need to determine wear percentages on the various undercarriage components.
I've got the Track Service Handbook if you need to determine wear percentages on the various undercarriage components.
D6 Merv
Senior Member
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- Coromandel Peninsula. New Zealand
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- Self employed bulldozing contractor with a D6D D4E
Late D6Cs did have 3306 eng. These all have a seperate engine s/n to the tractor s/n. US ones were 3N nos japanese were 44V nos.
Expect this is a genuine LGP with those big feet. No 1 question is what sort of work has it done and what sort of person drove it. LGP D6s are prone to FD problems if theyve been misued in hard underfoot conditions.
Have a real good look under the tractor were the deadshafts connect to the track frame diagonal brace. If theres any sign of oil weeping out the deadshaft bore from the final drives; leave it behind. If it were me would also drain oil from final drives and check for metal; and also check trans suction screen and filter.
remember even the very last of these girls are still 35 years old.
But with the right care and attention can stil do alot of work. Got 2 later D6Ds meself.
Expect this is a genuine LGP with those big feet. No 1 question is what sort of work has it done and what sort of person drove it. LGP D6s are prone to FD problems if theyve been misued in hard underfoot conditions.
Have a real good look under the tractor were the deadshafts connect to the track frame diagonal brace. If theres any sign of oil weeping out the deadshaft bore from the final drives; leave it behind. If it were me would also drain oil from final drives and check for metal; and also check trans suction screen and filter.
remember even the very last of these girls are still 35 years old.
But with the right care and attention can stil do alot of work. Got 2 later D6Ds meself.
tctractors
Senior Member
Just to make my earlier post clear, I said that D6C's "usualy" come with the 333C motor parked under the Bonnet, the amount of 3306 engines found would be less? that 10% of production build, the final drive faults on D6C/D are well known but simple to sort, the D6 tractor in general is about the cheapest tractor to repair, it would have the largest parts back up from CAT and None OE suppliers around, any widespead track groups are going to give something somewhere in the drive line a bit of strain, but at 6'000 hours this tractor would be classed as " Honeymoon Fresh " in the U.K. wide pads are not good on sand as they tend to bend.
Old Magnet
Senior Member
The 10K D6C changed to the 3N series 3306 at s/n 7953 (1973). Production ran to 13,703 units ending in 1977.
D6 Merv
Senior Member
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- 654
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- Coromandel Peninsula. New Zealand
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- Self employed bulldozing contractor with a D6D D4E
hi Tony; did you guys have many problems with D6s and D5s too in the uk with deadshafts working loose and flogging out the final drive cases. And requiring line boring and sleeving to repair ? This was the type of problem i was refering to in my post, and first indication of trouble was oil weeping out the shaft bore, followed by the inner bearing failing and then toothache !
Saw alot of thes problems here in nz in the 80s esp on lgp 5s and 6s. and one late standard D6C that had rippers. tractors were line bored and sleeved, but problems still persisted and know the 6c with rippers was written off at the cat dealers expense, due to errors in the lineboring.
No doubt things are people are alot better informed about this now, and was just interested if you guys had to do this much and if it was still a problem, as was very expensive and difficult to do here at the time
Cheers from the bottom of the world mate.
Merv
Saw alot of thes problems here in nz in the 80s esp on lgp 5s and 6s. and one late standard D6C that had rippers. tractors were line bored and sleeved, but problems still persisted and know the 6c with rippers was written off at the cat dealers expense, due to errors in the lineboring.
No doubt things are people are alot better informed about this now, and was just interested if you guys had to do this much and if it was still a problem, as was very expensive and difficult to do here at the time
Cheers from the bottom of the world mate.
Merv
tctractors
Senior Member
Merv, I would have rebuilt about 60 D6C/D final drives plus or minus a few that I just pushed/pulled for customers, so I have had plenty of looks inside the dead shaft hole, a few have been sorted by very impressive enginering skilled people, needing loads of money to sort it, other times just fitting a new shaft beaten in with some of "mama's special cream" with the castle nut dogged tight then drilled and repegged, has set the cure on this item, I have had a few of these shafts go in a bit off spec' but you can sort it on the adjuster hub, dont think I am a patch up man as I only do what I can for the man paying the coins, if things are tightfor the customer I can get him back earning, the shaft will never turn again I am confident???, as a note I always pull D8H/K dead shafts from their perch when doing F/D rebuilds, as they get clogged up with chunks of iron in the oil feed bore, its a shame the D6 etc tractors never had dead shafts bolted in like the larger tractors.
p.s. Duo-cone seals are very forgiving. tctractors
p.s. Duo-cone seals are very forgiving. tctractors
Last edited:
D6 Merv
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 10, 2007
- Messages
- 654
- Location
- Coromandel Peninsula. New Zealand
- Occupation
- Self employed bulldozing contractor with a D6D D4E
hi tony
thanks for that; you,ll have to give me the recipie for' mamas special cream'. take its some special liquid metal ! Yes have done same as you, i would put a bottle jack under deadshaft inner nut with all the tractors weight on it and then drive the shaft in with a sledge hammer till inner nut didn,t move. like you say deadshaft spec can be out of specs but it still works, had to do this with one of mine.
Know about the deadshaft oil cavity on 8h/ks, and yes if 6 and 7s deadshaft was bolted in with a flange am sure this would aleviate alot of problems in ripping situations.
take it the line boring and sleeving is what you mean by impressive expensive engineering skilled people. Cat probably have definite specs on this now, but know we were abit on our own in the early 80s.
cheers and thanks mate. merv
thanks for that; you,ll have to give me the recipie for' mamas special cream'. take its some special liquid metal ! Yes have done same as you, i would put a bottle jack under deadshaft inner nut with all the tractors weight on it and then drive the shaft in with a sledge hammer till inner nut didn,t move. like you say deadshaft spec can be out of specs but it still works, had to do this with one of mine.
Know about the deadshaft oil cavity on 8h/ks, and yes if 6 and 7s deadshaft was bolted in with a flange am sure this would aleviate alot of problems in ripping situations.
take it the line boring and sleeving is what you mean by impressive expensive engineering skilled people. Cat probably have definite specs on this now, but know we were abit on our own in the early 80s.
cheers and thanks mate. merv
tctractors
Senior Member
Merv, the only liquid metal I ever use sparks out of my Lincoln SAE300 welder, the bore and sleave jobs that I have seen done in the past never seemed to last very long before the shaft was dripping like a busted fridge around the wishbones, I screw on the pulling adapter 1 3/4" then pin the sledge hammer dolly into it and send the shaft home, this is after I have spent possibly upto a day fixing up the bore welding and fettling things so its a never turn again deal, set the keyway at 12 of the clock, check the face to shaft angles and smile?