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D4c final drive seems too tight

TWM

Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2018
Messages
7
Location
Alto, TX
Thanks for adding me. I have read many threads on here and they have been very helpful. I have a 1989 D4c Lgp 2cj00464 (made in Japan). This dozer was bought to do some work on my farm. The first thing I wanted to do was change ALL fluids and filters. In doing so I found 3 broken studs in the bottom of the left final drive. After looking inside with a camera I saw that they were from the bearing cage for the shaft. I decided to rebuild both f/d's. Everything is pressed and torqued back together according to Cat specs. My question is, the right f/d is very tight. It takes 80-100 ft lbs to turn it at the nut on the pinion flange. This is without oil in the case but assembly lube was applied to all moving parts. Gears, bearings, and seals are aftermarket from off road eq. Should I pull the case back off and try another new pinion? The left side turns easier but I reused the bull gear in it because it appeared to be fairly new. I have not dropped the steering clutches back in yet. Thanks, TWM
 

TWM

Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2018
Messages
7
Location
Alto, TX
Is your brake dragging sometimes the linkage freezes up
Clutches and brake assembly are not installed yet. Just rebuilt final drives and bolted them back to the dozer which is still on blocks. I was just wondering if that was too tight for new gears and bearings and if they will break in correctly. I don't want it to get hot and seize up. The left side actually has a little backlash so I may pull them back off this weekend and swap pinions side to side and try that. Thanks for the reply. Tim
 

TWM

Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2018
Messages
7
Location
Alto, TX
I may need to clarify a few things because my first post was rushed due to my lunch break was about over. At first I was only going to rebuild the left final drive (the one with the broken bearing cage studs) and reseal the right one because it leaked. After pulling both, All the bearings looked pretty rough like some water had gotten in. The dozer came from the Houston, Tx area about a year after the bad floods so, I put 2 and 2 together and assumed that's how the water got in. The shafts were reused and the left bull gear looked very good so it was reused. I had ordered the parts for the left side before I pulled the right side and that is why the 5g5846 pinions came from 2 different places (off road equipment and allmaq) and the teeth appeared to be a little different. I will try to put a picture of them on here. I replaced the bull gear on the right side because a few teeth were chipped at the edge. All new bearings, races and seals. This has been my weekend project for a couple months now and I am replacing anything that I think may give me a problem. The dozer operated great when I pulled it into my shop. But I am learning just how much final drives get neglected.20180928_170415.jpg 20180928_170415.jpg 20181014_124020.jpg
 

Cmark

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2009
Messages
3,178
Location
Australia
I suspect you already know what your gut feeling is telling you. If you have no backlash on one side, there's something wrong. Best to take it apart now and check.

As well as badly made parts, look for nicks and burrs preventing bearing races from seating properly.
 

TWM

Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2018
Messages
7
Location
Alto, TX
Sounds like parts acquired from the land of "almost right" (China)
You're probably right sir. If you zoom in on the pinion on the right (from Almaq) it appears that the flat spot at the peak of the teeth is wider. It will be pulled out this weekend. Live and learn I guess. Thank you
 

TWM

Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2018
Messages
7
Location
Alto, TX
I suspect you already know what your gut feeling is telling you. If you have no backlash on one side, there's something wrong. Best to take it apart now and check.

As well as badly made parts, look for nicks and burrs preventing bearing races from seating properly.
Before bolting the case back up all the bearings (Timken and Bower) felt good, but I will pull it back down, double checking things as I go. Thank you
 

TWM

Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2018
Messages
7
Location
Alto, TX
I have another question for the experts. When I fix the clearance problem and bolt the cases up for the last time, what sealant do you recommend? Permatex no 1, Indian head or something else?
 

Cmark

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2009
Messages
3,178
Location
Australia
I have another question for the experts. When I fix the clearance problem and bolt the cases up for the last time, what sealant do you recommend? Permatex no 1, Indian head or something else?

I've always used the Cat specified sealer 138-8436, which is actually Loctite Hi-Tack. However this stuff is as old as the hills and I'm sure a more modern product will do the job just as well. More important, in my opinion, is to make sure the mating surfaces are perfectly flat and blemish free. I like to go over them with an oil stone to highlight any high spots.
 
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TWM

Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2018
Messages
7
Location
Alto, TX
After pulling the f/d back off and replacing the pinion with one from Off Road Equipment, it now has that "just right" feel. I do not recommend anything from the online store Allmaq. All though they use the American flag in their name, I think the quality says something else. I buttoned things up with the nasty Hi-Tack and I'm ready to put the steering clutches back in. It was a $300 lesson plus my time. Thanks to the guys that replied to my post. Tim
 

Nige

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
29,379
Location
G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
For your future peace of mind Offroad Equipment come highly recommended by a number of HEF members as a supplier of good-quality parts for Cat equipment. Although I think as a result of your experience with the final drive parts you probably already figured that out......
 
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