D3C LGP Hydrastat

[Bill Murrell]

I have a D3C LGP Hydrastat that some time ago started to apply the brake on one side or the other by itself. Took it the the local Cat dealer and for a cool $1,100 they diagnosed that the parking break assemblies need to be replaced to the tune of over $13,000.

Now the tractor will not move but a few inches either way. Does the group agree with the diagnosis? Can rebuilt brake assemblies be found and installed? How much of a job is it?

Thanks for any light you can shed on my problem.

Bill

 

[Nige]

How handy are you with tools and what sort of facilities do you have to work on the tractor..?

 

[Bill Murrell]

Good shop and handy with yools

 

[Nige]

Tractor Serial Number..?

 

[Bill Murrell]

5GS00523

 

[Nige]

Do you have a Parts Manual already..? If not you will need one, if not for this repair then for one in the future.
Go to https://catpublications.com/
When the popup window appears click on "Continue as Guest"
Put SEBP2686 in the Search window and hit enter. The illustration below should pup up. $89 for a downloadable pdf file.
I'll post up some procedures later regarding getting into the brakes.

 

[Bill Murrell]

I have a service manual coming

 

[Nige]

Good to know. it will be a big help to you.
FYI, the Service Manual will not include a Parts Manual

 

[Bill Murrell]

I need to get the brakes released to get the tractor to the shop. Any suggestions?

 

[Nige]

Is this any help..?
If you choose to remove the axle shafts I can post something up.

 

[Bill Murrell]

Will try to remove the axle shafts tomorrow and get it to my shop.

 

[Nige]

Just be careful, because with the axle shafts removed you will have no brakes at all unless you can run the engine and use the blade as a brake.

 

[Bill Murrell]

Thanks

 

[newguy2k3]

They don't call them stealerships for nothing.

I haven't seen a fault in the brakes themselves not allow them to release. If they were leaking the oil would fill the finals and blow your duocone seals. I'd verify you have pressure going to the brakes to release them before you year it all apart. If it actually is the brakes that are bad they can be rebuilt fairly easily. You're lucky you have a D3 and not a 4 or 5. Drive motors are smaller, lighter and much easier to get out.

 

[Bill Murrell]

The dealership said they checked the pressures to determine it was the brake assemble itself. Sure hope they did

 

[Nige]

When you get your Service Manual it might just pay you to check before starting to pull anything apart ..........

 

[Bill Murrell]

I need to get it to the shop first. Hopefully today.

 

[newguy2k3]

The brakes are sandwiched between the drive motors and final drives. One of them will have a hose coming in from the front. A steel line connects left and right and there will be a pressure switch on one of them which goes to the light on the dash. I don't remember for certain but I believe there should be 5-600psi there with the parking brake released. If you don't have pressure then the problem is not the brakes themselves. If either of your final drives are overfull it's likely from the brakes leaking but as I said they'll blow the seals on the final before it could leak enough to not release at all.

 

[Bill Murrell]

Thanks for the info. Will try to get the tractor to the shop next week and check the pressures. Got other priorities on the farm this week.

Thanks again.

 

[Bill Murrell]

Nige

Got tractor to shop finally. Had a blown fuse in the key circuit which slowed me down moving it. .

Found the park brake light bulb burned out. Replaced the bulb and it stays on all the time. Any suggestions?