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CX-130 Electrical Problem Question

excavator

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With the ignition switch in the run position you need 24 volts at the small wire. On the battery relay there will be a main power wire from the battery and one going out to the starter. There are also 2 smaller wires coming in, one of which is your power wire from the ignition switch.
 

Darrell Day

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With the ignition switch in the run position you need 24 volts at the small wire. On the battery relay there will be a main power wire from the battery and one going out to the starter. There are also 2 smaller wires coming in, one of which is your power wire from the ignition switch.
I see the main power wire coming from the battery and the one going to the starter. They are on the top right post of the relay. I have a smaller red cable and an even smaller blue with brown stripe on the top left terminal. There is no power on either of those unless I hot wire the relay to the battery on the lower side relay connection.
 

uffex

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Good day Darrell
I believe you have located the issue I will put some information together for you.
Kind regards
Uffex
 

uffex

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Good day
Please see attached illustrations may differ slightly.
Kind regards
Uffex
 

Attachments

  • Mian Relaycheck.pdf
    2 MB · Views: 10

Darrell Day

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Messages
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Good day
Please see attached illustrations may differ slightly.
Kind regards
Uffex
Thanks. That doesn’t really help me. I’ll try to explain the situation again. With everything hooked up normal, I have 25+ volts at the battery and where the battery cable connects to the relay. With the key on, I have no power at the switch. Nothing comes on. If I connect a jumper wire to the negative side of the relay, it clicks and power comes on at the switch. The machine will start and run as long as that jumper wire stays attached. The machine will die as soon as I disconnect the jumper wire from the battery and the power at the switch is lost. I’ve checked the wiring from the relay to the switch and the harness doesn’t show any signs of crimping. If the relay is not bad, I’m at a loss.
 

excavator

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You are not getting voltage from your ignition switch to your battery relay. One of the two tiny wires needs voltage with the key on and until you have that it will not work. Unfortunately I can't find a wire schematic to tell you which wire it is, I'm much more familiar with Deere/Hitachi. I just looked at what Uffex sent you and that is exactly what you need.
 

Darrell Day

Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2020
Messages
21
Location
Tennessee
You are not getting voltage from your ignition switch to your battery relay. One of the two tiny wires needs voltage with the key on and until you have that it will not work. Unfortunately I can't find a wire schematic to tell you which wire it is, I'm much more familiar with Deere/Hitachi. I just looked at what Uffex sent you and that is exactly what you need.
I know. I don’t know how I will ever track down why it is not getting voltage. All of the wiring harnesses are sealed. I’m thinking it may just be easier to run a jumper wire from the battery to the relay with a quick disconnect. That works but it’s not optimal. However, I don’t feel like tearing wiring harnesses apart.
 

uffex

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Good day Darrell
I would not suggest you part the wiring harness, if you find it works by adding a jumper to the positive side of the pulling coil that is where the problem is at. The key switch needs power go there and check if you have 24 volts, if not look to that fuse measure there to see if you have voltage.Please check for voltage at the key switch see attached it is the best information i have.
Kind regards
Uffex
 

Attachments

  • KeySwitch.pdf
    801.4 KB · Views: 6

uffex

Senior Member
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Good day Darrell
I would not suggest you part the wiring harness, if you find it works by adding a jumper to the positive side of the pulling coil that is where the problem is at. The key switch needs power go there and check if you have 24 volts, if not look to that fuse measure there to see if you have voltage.Please check for voltage at the key switch see attached it is the best information i have.
Kind regards
Uffex
 

uffex

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2012
Messages
4,464
Location
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Good day Darrell
I would not suggest you part the wiring harness, if you find it works by adding a jumper to the positive side of the pulling coil that is where the problem is at. The key switch needs power go there and check if you have 24 volts, if not look to that fuse measure there to see if you have voltage.Please check for voltage at the key switch see attached it is the best information i have.
Kind regards
Uffex
 

uffex

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2012
Messages
4,464
Location
Lincoln UK
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Admin
Good day Darrell
I would not suggest you part the wiring harness, if you find it works by adding a jumper to the positive side of the pulling coil that is where the problem is at. The key switch needs power go there and check if you have 24 volts, if not look to that fuse measure there to see if you have voltage.Please check for voltage at the key switch see attached it is the best information i have.
Kind regards
Uffex
 

Darrell Day

Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2020
Messages
21
Location
Tennessee
Good day Darrell
I would not suggest you part the wiring harness, if you find it works by adding a jumper to the positive side of the pulling coil that is where the problem is at. The key switch needs power go there and check if you have 24 volts, if not look to that fuse measure there to see if you have voltage.Please check for voltage at the key switch see attached it is the best information i have.
Kind regards
Uffex
Thanks. It will be a couple of weeks before I am back at the machine. What is the best way to get to the key switch? I took the side panel off the arm and I don't see any way to get to the switch. I'm not able to see the bottom side of the switch where the wires would connect.

On the fuse box, F12 calls for a 10a fuse, but someone has put a 20a in that slot. I checked that fuse and it is good. If I pull the fuse, I have nothing at the switch. I'll check the voltage there when I get back to the machine.

If I don't have 24v at either the fuse block on F12 or the key switch, what would be the next step? Thanks for the help.
 

Darrell Day

Member
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Messages
21
Location
Tennessee
Good day
Please see attached illustrations may differ slightly.
Kind regards
Uffex
On the main relay check pdf, I am hot wiring a jumper from the battery positive terminal to the ground (-) that is at the top right of the relay in the picture. That is the only way I can get the machine to start and run. That doesn't make sense to me since this is supposed to be a negative and I am hooking a positive to it. I tried jumping to the positive post at the top left in the picture. The relay clicks, but the dash does not light up and the machine will not start. I also tried hot wiring directly to the post at bottom right in the picture depicted by 2 (key on 24 volts) and nothing happens. If this is where the key is sending power, I would think a direct wire from the battery to this post would allow the relay to work, but it does not. That is why this is so confusing to me. I hope all this makes sense.
 

uffex

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Hi Darrell
Inside that relay (Four screws & top hat) you will have a quench diode this should only let current flow in one direction, if that has blown it could add up to your experience. The Diode is there to prevent spike voltage when the coil is de-activated. Please make a first check of this.
Kind regards
Uffex
 

Attachments

  • DiodeCheck.pdf
    58.2 KB · Views: 6

Darrell Day

Member
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Messages
21
Location
Tennessee
Hi Darrell
Inside that relay (Four screws & top hat) you will have a quench diode this should only let current flow in one direction, if that has blown it could add up to your experience. The Diode is there to prevent spike voltage when the coil is de-activated. Please make a first check of this.
Kind regards
Uffex
Thanks. I'll give that a try when I am back at the machine. Will be a couple of weeks. Appreciate your help.
 

Coy Lancaster

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Hey Darrell have you checked the key fuse in the fuse box behind the seat in the cab?
 

uffex

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Hi Darrell
I have taken a close look at the wiring schematic, if I interpret what you have posted the fuse F22 is without power.
There appears to be no isolating switch with your machine. Fuse F22 has no dependency it should be with 24 Volts the moment you connect the batterie's.
The rest of the activation of the machines electrics are totally defendant on that fuse please see attached.
Kind regards
Uffex
 

Attachments

  • CX160 Leccy.pdf
    1.1 MB · Views: 5

Coy Lancaster

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I have seen the fuses not be burnt, but the terminals be burnt off the end of the fuse or wire.
 
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