Clark C500-S60 Questions

[Radius]

Hi Everyone!

New forum member here.

I just picked up a Clark C500S60 to replace/augment my ancient 1942 Towmotor. Yes, 1942! The data plate says this is a type "G." It is running on LPG.

This thing is like a cadillac compared to the old Towmotor! Power steering, side shift, smaller footprint, more power. Love it so far. However, it does have a couple of issues and I have a couple of questions. Hopefully someone can help.

It would not start for the people I bought it from. They bought a reman starter for it but then discovered a bad spot in the flywheel. I turned the engine past the bad spot by hand, reinstalled the starter and the brake master cylinder and she started right up but ran poorly. I made a deal for her and hauled her home. I'm sure that some day I will have to replace the flywheel or ring gear, but hopefully I will continue to get lucky and the engine won't ever stop at the bad spot again!

I already fixed the poor driveability and the parking brake. I need to replace the fan belt since it's at max adjustment and squeals like crazy. I also need to reinforce the alternator mounting since it wobbles all over the place.

My questions have to do with the hydraulic reservoirs. It looks like there are 2 of them. One on the right side that has a plastic screw on cap with a plastic dipstick, and one on the left that has a galavanized NPT cap. Are these both hydraulic reservoirs? What type of hydraulic fluid is called for? The one of the left does not have a dip stick. How much should be in there? Can I use "tractor hydraulic fluid" that I can get reasonable cheap at Costco?

Also, the thing leaks ATF to the point that I think I should fix it. I am assuming this is actual transmission fliud. Is there a common leak on these models? It appears that most of the leaking is coming from about the center of the lift. There is a large piece of flat bar that goes from side to side on the lift. The trans fluid is dripping off this bar. Also, it looks like the fill for this is in the center of the differential behind the fork slide assy. If I tilt the forks all the way forward I can get to a little dipstick there. it's down about 1/2 way and it is definitely ATF. Is this the correct spot to be checking the fluid for the trans? Do I check it running or not running?

How do I go about getting the thing high enough to get underneath to at least degrease and look for the leak? Crawling under it with a creeper would be fairly scary unless properly supported. Maybe I can crab it up by blocking under the mast and use the tilt to slowly bring it up as I block it?

It would be nice to know what year this truck is. The serial number is 40 492 2520

Last but not least, does someone have a .pdf of a manual I can read?

Thank you!!
Michael

 

[caterpillar005]

I have the same forklift with the same question about the oil on the right side. I went to the dealer and asked what to put in there because it was completely dry and he said its a gas tank. I never knew that it was a gas tank but the tank and cap had a bad (old gas) smell. Also on the left side where the dipstick is someone else may know what it is but I think its regular hydraulic fluid.

 

[TD24]

My questions have to do with the hydraulic reservoirs. It looks like there are 2 of them. One on the right side that has a plastic screw on cap with a plastic dipstick, and one on the left that has a galavanized NPT cap. Are these both hydraulic reservoirs? What type of hydraulic fluid is called for? The one of the left does not have a dip stick. How much should be in there? Can I use "tractor hydraulic fluid" that I can get reasonable cheap at Costco?

(Sitting in the seat, looking ahead thru the mast......Your right arm is R and your left arm is L. Left is the gas tank. It was capped as it was not on gas when it left the factory) Right is hyd. Use AW32 or 10W non detergent engine oil and if in a freezer enviroment use Dexron II.)


Also, the thing leaks ATF to the point that I think I should fix it. I am assuming this is actual transmission fliud. Is there a common leak on these models? It appears that most of the leaking is coming from about the center of the lift. . Is this the correct spot to be checking the fluid for the trans? Do I check it running or not running?

(Center leak of red fluid is uaually a torque converter seal. Check fluid with the dipstick you descrbed -Engine idling so trans pump is charging system. Use Dexron II. For your info, get a piece of cardboard large enough to park in on. Magic mark to outline the steer and drive tires. Let it set over nite after use. Cool down-pressue leak-etc.
Drive it fwd on to another cardboard and shut it down. Re mark it. Let it sit over nite. Now you find any loose connections, bad hose, etc leaks. ATF is blood red-AW32 is almost clear with a blue sheen.)
POUR ANY ADDITION FLUID IN SLOWLY AND CHECK/ PAUSE OFTEN. CASE IS LARGE AT BOTTOM WHEN FLUID IS LOW,
GETS MORE COMPACT WITH CLUTCH PACKS AND CONTROL VALVES UP HIGHER. YOU MIGHT POUR IN 2 GAL IN ONE WHACK FIRST, THEN ADD A QUART NEAR THE TOP AND THAT WHOLE QUART ALL GUSH BACK OUT.

How do I go about getting the thing high enough to get underneath to at least degrease and look for the leak?.

(Easiest, cheapest, quickest...
Outside loading dock. Flat bed bob truck or semi trailer backed up close/tight/square with the dock.
Drive your forklift up on the dock; foward, till its drive wheels are fully on the flatbed.
Sit on the forklift and hold down firmly on the foot brake pedal. Have someone (you trust) inch the flat bed
forward till your forklifts steer tires are JUST STILL ON THE DOCK....
Then you can lock or chock to keep from rolling and nearly stand up underneath it to examine, clean, or replace the low hanging hoses.)



It would be nice to know what year this truck is. The serial number is 40 492 2520

(Contact Clark Equipment for a "line card" on it. Will show when mfgd,and lots of part numbers for its components)



Last but not least, does someone have a .pdf of a manual I can read?
(The Clark source you find for the line card can get you manuals for parts, and maintenance.)

.

 

[Radius]

My questions have to do with the hydraulic reservoirs. It looks like there are 2 of them. One on the right side that has a plastic screw on cap with a plastic dipstick, and one on the left that has a galavanized NPT cap. Are these both hydraulic reservoirs? What type of hydraulic fluid is called for? The one of the left does not have a dip stick. How much should be in there? Can I use "tractor hydraulic fluid" that I can get reasonable cheap at Costco?

(Sitting in the seat, looking ahead thru the mast......Your right arm is R and your left arm is L. Left is the gas tank. It was capped as it was not on gas when it left the factory) Right is hyd. Use AW32 or 10W non detergent engine oil and if in a freezer enviroment use Dexron II.)


Also, the thing leaks ATF to the point that I think I should fix it. I am assuming this is actual transmission fliud. Is there a common leak on these models? It appears that most of the leaking is coming from about the center of the lift. . Is this the correct spot to be checking the fluid for the trans? Do I check it running or not running?

(Center leak of red fluid is uaually a torque converter seal. Check fluid with the dipstick you descrbed -Engine idling so trans pump is charging system. Use Dexron II. For your info, get a piece of cardboard large enough to park in on. Magic mark to outline the steer and drive tires. Let it set over nite after use. Cool down-pressue leak-etc.
Drive it fwd on to another cardboard and shut it down. Re mark it. Let it sit over nite. Now you find any loose connections, bad hose, etc leaks. ATF is blood red-AW32 is almost clear with a blue sheen.)
POUR ANY ADDITION FLUID IN SLOWLY AND CHECK/ PAUSE OFTEN. CASE IS LARGE AT BOTTOM WHEN FLUID IS LOW,
GETS MORE COMPACT WITH CLUTCH PACKS AND CONTROL VALVES UP HIGHER. YOU MIGHT POUR IN 2 GAL IN ONE WHACK FIRST, THEN ADD A QUART NEAR THE TOP AND THAT WHOLE QUART ALL GUSH BACK OUT.

How do I go about getting the thing high enough to get underneath to at least degrease and look for the leak?.

(Easiest, cheapest, quickest...
Outside loading dock. Flat bed bob truck or semi trailer backed up close/tight/square with the dock.
Drive your forklift up on the dock; foward, till its drive wheels are fully on the flatbed.
Sit on the forklift and hold down firmly on the foot brake pedal. Have someone (you trust) inch the flat bed
forward till your forklifts steer tires are JUST STILL ON THE DOCK....
Then you can lock or chock to keep from rolling and nearly stand up underneath it to examine, clean, or replace the low hanging hoses.)



It would be nice to know what year this truck is. The serial number is 40 492 2520

(Contact Clark Equipment for a "line card" on it. Will show when mfgd,and lots of part numbers for its components)



Last but not least, does someone have a .pdf of a manual I can read?
(The Clark source you find for the line card can get you manuals for parts, and maintenance.)

.

Hello TD24,

I am unable to respond to your PM. Maybe because I don't have enough posts. No idea. I also have no idea why my subscription to this topic didn't send me an email when it got replied to. But thank you for your PM, because I got *that* notification.

Thank you for your post. Yes, the information is helpful. Although some circumstances have changed and I have not had a chance to do any other work or inspection on the lift. Hopefully that will change in the next few months.

Great idea on the method to get underneath it, but unfortunately I don't have a loading dock. I think I will simply have to block it up a little at a time using the fork tilt until I can get it high enough to look under. Also a great idea on marking the cardboard.

I read in another place that it was common for the inching slave/brake cylinder inside the transmission to leak. If this happened, the brake fluid contamination of the transmission would damage seals, etc, and cause them to leak. I was told to check the inching pedal master cylinder to see if it was dry, and if so then that is a problem. I was also told that if the inching pedal master cylinder was dry I shouldn't refill it until I was ready to fix the issue otherwise it would be that much more brake fluid contamination of the transmission. Well, or course, my inching master cylinder is empty.

Does this sound right or was I fed bogus info?

Thanks,
Michael

 

[TD24]

Hang loose a few.
Will be back with info on the inching cyl info and some advice on safe jacking/chocking via PM.
Will PM because have to prepare it, cut and paste to email, and will include some e mail/phone# info.
RJ

 

[Radius]

Hang loose a few.
Will be back with info on the inching cyl info and some advice on safe jacking/chocking via PM.
Will PM because have to prepare it, cut and paste to email, and will include some e mail/phone# info.
RJ

Hi RJ.

If you send via PM i will not be able to read it as I cannot access PMs. I suspect this is because my post count is too low.

 

[TD24]

Check you email next few days and reply to what you receive.

 

[TD24]

Hi Everyone!

New forum member here.

I just picked up a Clark C500S60 to replace/augment my ancient 1942 Towmotor. Yes, 1942! The data plate says this is a type "G." It is running on LPG.

This thing is like a cadillac compared to the old Towmotor! Power steering, side shift, smaller footprint, more power. Love it so far. However, it does have a couple of issues and I have a couple of questions. Hopefully someone can help.

It would not start for the people I bought it from. They bought a reman starter for it but then discovered a bad spot in the flywheel. I turned the engine past the bad spot by hand, reinstalled the starter and the brake master cylinder and she started right up but ran poorly. I made a deal for her and hauled her home. I'm sure that some day I will have to replace the flywheel or ring gear, but hopefully I will continue to get lucky and the engine won't ever stop at the bad spot again!

I already fixed the poor driveability and the parking brake. I need to replace the fan belt since it's at max adjustment and squeals like crazy. I also need to reinforce the alternator mounting since it wobbles all over the place.

My questions have to do with the hydraulic reservoirs. It looks like there are 2 of them. One on the right side that has a plastic screw on cap with a plastic dipstick, and one on the left that has a galavanized NPT cap. Are these both hydraulic reservoirs? What type of hydraulic fluid is called for? The one of the left does not have a dip stick. How much should be in there? Can I use "tractor hydraulic fluid" that I can get reasonable cheap at Costco?

Also, the thing leaks ATF to the point that I think I should fix it. I am assuming this is actual transmission fliud. Is there a common leak on these models? It appears that most of the leaking is coming from about the center of the lift. There is a large piece of flat bar that goes from side to side on the lift. The trans fluid is dripping off this bar. Also, it looks like the fill for this is in the center of the differential behind the fork slide assy. If I tilt the forks all the way forward I can get to a little dipstick there. it's down about 1/2 way and it is definitely ATF. Is this the correct spot to be checking the fluid for the trans? Do I check it running or not running?

How do I go about getting the thing high enough to get underneath to at least degrease and look for the leak? Crawling under it with a creeper would be fairly scary unless properly supported. Maybe I can crab it up by blocking under the mast and use the tilt to slowly bring it up as I block it?

It would be nice to know what year this truck is. The serial number is 40 492 2520

Last but not least, does someone have a .pdf of a manual I can read?

Thank you!!
Michael

Your truck per your ID is C500S60.
Which is a Clark C500-355 truck(3000-3500-4000-4500-5000 or 5500 lb capacity ) ;with a heavier counterweight, making it a short 60...
Somewhere on it (Data plate or along right side of frame the numbers 355-492-2520) should apppear.
Truck should have Clark/Waukesha engine, F / R lever sticking up on left of steering wheel, and Lift and Tilt levers on right side.
Go to:: ( http;//www.neonmaterialhandling.com/shop/serial_number_lookup ) and enter 355 -492-2520 in the blocks and press FIND.
Will come up as a 1973 model with disclaimer ref the model match. Year should be right, as it was the 492nd truck Clark made in
producton run two thousand, five hundred, twenty (2520).
Nice horse, gets around well. Little hard on rubber steer tires if you crab a lot in tight places. Replace tires at wear out with
Polyurethane ones. Will steer easier, last longer as the friction due to the heavy weight will be less.

 

[Radius]

Your truck per your ID is C500S60.
Which is a Clark C500-355 truck(3000-3500-4000-4500-5000 or 5500 lb capacity ) ;with a heavier counterweight, making it a short 60...
Somewhere on it (Data plate or along right side of frame the numbers 355-492-2520) should apppear.
Truck should have Clark/Waukesha engine, F / R lever sticking up on left of steering wheel, and Lift and Tilt levers on right side.
Go to:: ( http;//www.neonmaterialhandling.com/shop/serial_number_lookup ) and enter 355 -492-2520 in the blocks and press FIND.
Will come up as a 1973 model with disclaimer ref the model match. Year should be right, as it was the 492nd truck Clark made in
producton run two thousand, five hundred, twenty (2520).
Nice horse, gets around well. Little hard on rubber steer tires if you crab a lot in tight places. Replace tires at wear out with
Polyurethane ones. Will steer easier, last longer as the friction due to the heavy weight will be less.

Awesome!

Thanks for the info TD! That will help a lot when looking for parts. I appreciate your effort on my behalf!

Michael