Clark C500 S30 Steering & Side Shift Cylinder Rebuild

[Rwhelan80]

Here is a Clark 3000# Forklift. With Serial number 235 2255 2835 The Steering cylinder is leaking out of the ram, as is the side shift one. This was in a very tight spot. I had to remove the four bolts from the cylinder to get the whole assembly out. Or it looked as if I could have removed the counterweight in back or had it 3 feet off the ground. Neither of those methods would have been feasible for me. Was a pretty straight forward removal. Appeared to be leaking for some time, as machine is covered in grease and oil. Cleaning is key. I have removed both cylinders and included pics of them with the numbers showing. I can locate the steering cylinder rebuild kit, I do not know how to rebuild a cylinder like this? Are they similar to the ones with the removable cap like the side shift cylinder? Is anyone familiar with these? Could you share some info on how to go about the rebuild? I can not find one for the side shift cylinder. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how I go about getting a rebuild kit or the Clark rebuild kit numbers? Any help, pointers or suggestions are greatly appreciated. I am looking forward to getting the parts on the way and hopefully installing them next weekend, Depending on the holiday work schedule. Thank You

 

[Rwhelan80]

More Pics

Here is a few more pictures of the cylinders. Any diagrams and info on machine would be grateful. Thanks

 

[TD24]

If you have a Clark dealer near you, go down with your serial number and ask him to show you a "line card" for that machine. Get a copy to keep. Lots of info on it.

With any luck, the truck came with the s/shifter installed. The line card will tell him what cyinders numbers are on it, and in some instances the "seal/packing kits" numbers for it.

Or he can look up your cylinder numbers you have visible and get an exploded view of its innards.

You can jack up the rear and remove the left steer tire, Then you can access the ball joint end at the steer axle. Remove the cotter, back out the plug to loosen the wafer inside, then lift it off. Front end should just stick thru a hole in a frame gusset with probably a nut and jam nut. Rod has slot in end to hold while unscrewing the nut. Should be/have been a washer on the rod at its shoulder, then a rubber of poly pad, then stuck thru the hole, then another rubber or poly pad, the last washer and nut to compress if all. You can usually reach thru
the square hole in the left side of frame and see this anchor arrangement and undo it from there.

I would advise you get it all out on the floor and kit/reassemble to a unit , then shove it back up under and bolt back up. The valve body has a spool inside that is tricky to get the little blue u cups in with out damage. Rod end packing should be a snap ring, metal spacer washer, then a u cup.
Your s/shift cyl probably comes apart by remove the 2 set screws, set the cap aside, bump the inside down in a little to free up and remove wire like snap ring/or 3 piece segments inside, then screw in a couple of 2 inch bolts to use to pull the rest out. Inner piston will probably have 2 u cups back to back and the gland/head may have a ucup, quad ring, or just an oring.
Good luck,,,,,

 

[Rwhelan80]

Steering Cylinder Parts

Wow Ordered parts Monday 6/25 at the door wed 6/27. Here is the steering cylinder and the parts removed with the new parts and numbers. Pretty straight forward. The seal was completely shot. Came out in pieces. As was the wiper and worn scraper. Going to assemble and install back in the Lift Truck and see how it works. Hopefully this will cure the leaking cylinder As for the side shift cylinder, the rebuild kit is $95 plus shipping, and the number is 639695. I am going to order it and go from there. However I am still looking for a better price? Maybe this is a very reasonable price concidering it is a 1975 model. Any thoughts? I also ordered a new brake Master cylinder and inching cylinder as the old ones were rusted and empty. I also ordered the wheel cylinders and will prob have to run some new lines to finish it off. Here are some pics of the progress. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated. I also received the line card via email from the Clark dealer. A ton of useful information on there. Mine is Equipment Depot out of Morton Illinois. Really helpful and knowledgful people there.

I am in need of some torque specs. I can not locate a service manual for it. I need the torque specs of the four mounting bolts holding the steering link to the cylinder.

Thanks

 

[TD24]

Progress

Good you got the line card. Valuable piece of paper to have.

That is probably a CASCADE s/s cylinder and why it's parts are high.

Hold up on order the kit. Open the cylinder up and examine. Lightly sand
the inner lip of the barrel and lube it a little before pulling the ram completely
out. This prevents tearing up any usable cups, orings, back ups, etc.

Do not cut out any u cup or orings or back ups. Open, wash, learn..

See that the cyl bore is smooth and what kind of ram packing is inside. See that the rod
is smooth and will not eat out any new seal you put in.

Now if the inside it good, and has U Cups or 1 oring w/backups on each side,
you may be able to match up some cups and for sure o rings.with a back up,
at a local bearing house

It is easy to get to, so examine before the expense. Could be your inside is
scored or rod is streaked and will not repack. You can get a used cyl for less
than 95.

(Call your dealer parts man and ask him to put his tech on the phone a minute
for the torque setting. He will ask you what size the bolts are. Tell him the
size. He will rattle off a setting.. Use it. Then find you a chart of torques per bolt
size and grade. It will be close enough except hyd pump cartridges and head bolts.
More LUCK....