Changing Sprockets

[deeredriver]

My sprockets on my Deere 690ELC are about done, and I need to change them out. Can this be done with out spliting the track? I was looking at the Heavy Quip web page and they have the sprockets that I need and are $217.26 each, deere wants $500.00 each. Which way should I go? Thanks!

 

[dayexco]

quite sure you'll have to split tracks...as far as which sprockets to buy, to me that would all depend on how long you intend on keeping the machine. that 690e is a GREAT machine. we have one with 8k hrs on it. was going to sell/trade it...but for what they'll allow on a trade in...we'll use it as a backup machine. it owes us nothing, and have stuck VERY little money into it.

 

[armadillo]

Generally if the sprockets are wore out the chains aren't far behind. If you only replace the sprockets you will GREATLY shorten the life of both. You may be able to turn the pins on the tracks. I'm not sure on the JD.

 

[deeredriver]

The sprockets have a chipping issue going on. Don't know why, but they are. Anyone changed them out with the track on before? How hard is it to split the chain? Looks like they weld the last pin in? Thanks!

 

[Gmads]

We just did this a couple of days ago on a 345 to replace the idler assembly. It sure helped that the guy we brought out had a portable pin press. That made things relatively easy. Look for the master link/pin. It's the pin with the dimple in it. Then we removed the two grouser pads covering that link/pin. Then we used the neato pin press to push the pin out, and voila - tracks apart. It was the first time I'd seen it done and was easier than I thought it would be (but only because of the pin press).

 

[deeredriver]

Amyone know how many tons of force are needed to remove the master pin?

 

[Willis Bushogin]

Sprockets

My sprockets on my Deere 690ELC are about done, and I need to change them out. Can this be done with out spliting the track? I was looking at the Heavy Quip web page and they have the sprockets that I need and are $217.26 each, deere wants $500.00 each. Which way should I go? Thanks!

I changed them on my Cat 320 a few months ago, I didnt break the track, I loosen the track, took the backhoe and pulled the track off the sprocket, I have a little wear in the links, so I was able to do it this way. After I installed the new sprocket, I pushed the bottom of track under the sprocket and took a chain and lifted the top of the track and put it over the top of the sprocket, with the backhoe. I have done this a few times, on other machines and it works better than breaking the track. I guess you could use a skidsteer also, to move the track. I didnt take it off the idler, just the sprocket. Its a 2 man job, 3 are better when you go to put it back on (extra man to run the machine)
I think it took us about 2 hours.
Now breaking the track, I have many many experiences with this:Banghead:bash, before I got smart. As stated, loosen the track adjuster, find the master pin (hope they havent welded both ends) remove the two pads. Then, if you dont have a track breaker, you can start cussing down, you will be too give out to cuss later. I usually put the master link, on top of the sprocket area. You need a solid bar, just a little smaller than the pin is, and a bigggggggggggg hammer. The bigger the better, I think mine is a 12-15 lb sledge. You might say, thats a heavy hammer. The idea is to get as much impact as you can, bfore you give out. I welded a long handle on the bar, so the hammer person didnt hit me, but most of the time, Im the one swinging the hammer, it is a art to this, bet this draws attention, but it takes a long-solid swing to get the most impact, takes some practice. About 10% of the time, you can get the pin out without heating the rails. So be prepared to have a torch. Dont heat the pin directly, just heat little bits of the links, bottom-top, both sides, back and forth, then try to drive it out, if it doesnt work right away, heat a little more, try the pin again. If it doesnt come out pretty quick, the pin gets hot and it becomes harder to remove the pin. I have had to take the torch and blow the pin out, that was after 5 hours of trying. If you use the torch method, it does mess up the dirt seals that some rails have. Its really up to you if you replace them, if the tracks have a bunch of wear, I wouldnt worry about them.
Before, you reinstall the pin, make sure you have the links cleaned out, all the burrs, etc. I use anti-seige lube on the pin, not real sure if it helps, but it doesnt hurt.
As stated, before it depends on how long, you plan on keeping the machine, if I use aftermarket, or factory parts. I do tend to use after market most of the time.
Hope this helps, sorry for the long reply.

 

[Kgmz]

Amyone know how many tons of force are needed to remove the master pin?

Most new portable pin presses are 100 ton, and there are a few that have 150 tons of force. And I have seen a few old ones that were 50 and 70 tons.

 

[deeredriver]

Thanks for all the info. This is my first track machine, so I need all the help that I can get. I checked the master pin, and it is welded on both sides. So now what? Can the other pins be pressed out?

 

[Willis Bushogin]

Sprockets

Thanks for all the info. This is my first track machine, so I need all the help that I can get. I checked the master pin, and it is welded on both sides. So now what? Can the other pins be pressed out?

Any pin can come out, normally, with enough effort. A few things I would try is, as I stated before
1. If your track, has enough wear, you may not have to break the track. I would try this, before I go to all the trouble of taking the pin out. See my other reply
2. If you decide, that you want to break the track, you can either grind the weld off the pin, or torch it off. Most of the time, if its welded, the link is a little oversize. Dont worry about that, its done alot in the real world and works great. I would buy new pins, to go back, in a bind, I have installed round stock, that fits. The regular steel round stock, is not as hard as the factory pin, but Ive never had one break.

My opinion is, if it ain't broke, dont mess with it, you might run into alot more trouble, taking the welded pin out. Try taking the track off first, if you have a Bobcat, backhoe, or something to lift the track with, youll find its pretty easy. You make think Im crazy, but do this on dirt, not concrete. You can use a bar to push the track back under the sprocket.

Im not sure on your machine, but normally the bolts that hold the sprocket on, require a 3/4" drive socket set. Impact wrench, make it go by faster. I have done this several times, in the field without a impact wrench, Just need a heavy duty socket set, cheaper pipe, muscles. If they have nuts on the bolts, I have had to heat them to get them off. If you do have nuts on the bolts, I would at least replace the nuts, they are usually, self locking and you might mess them up, taking them off.
Just make sure, that you put them back on with the correct torque, or long enough cheater bar
Final note, More than likely a 1/2" drive, regular style, will not work. You will, in most cases, bust the sockets or strip the rachets. So be prepared to have a 3/4 drive socket to fit the bolt, I normally use impact sockets, for this kind of work. I know sometimes you have to use what youve got, but Ive destroyed lots of sockets, pull handles, rachets, extensions, etc, trying to make it work. Then I go buy or borrow what I need and Im out of all the things I destroyed.

This is just stuff I have learned from the schools Ive attended for the last 30 years.
I graduated with honors, with some of the school of HARDKNOCKS:Banghead:bash

Good Luck

 

[AtlasRob]

track off

I agree 99.9% with Willis. Release the grease in the tensioner and push the idler back in with a block of wood and your bucket. Then spin around and pop the track off the top of the sprocket with a chain and your bucket teeth.
The only thing I dont agree with is, do it on hard ground, concrete if possible.
In my experience it will be easier to slide the track on a hard surface, BUT I understand why Willis says soft ground. It is so you can get your bar to dig into it to aid leverage.
You know what other machinery or lack of that you have to assist you.
Its your call good luck and give us an update.

 

[360joe]

Detracking

I had to knock off the track recently to replace the track tensioner. I pressed the bucket down to raise that side off the ground and then used a piece of timber to knock off the track. Wedged one end of timber against the ground and the other against the track close to where it passes over the top of the idler. Put the timber at about 30 deg angle to the ground. Spinning the track a little gets the timber to lift and push to the track to the side at the same time. Came off pretty easy this way. I dont have enough experience at this to say to anyone that this is the way to go but at least its an alternative suggestion.

 

[headwrench]

i also agree with willis. also i have scheduled john deere for a day there in my area, had the pads off for him had him pop the pin with his press go do his other jobs and return later in the day to press it back in. they only charged me 2 hours labor which saves a lot of swearing and hammer swinging.

 

[cat d9]

When I have to break tracks apart I use a large Chicago Pneumatic air hammer and two rose buds, I heat both links at the same time and when there is a red glow on the links a quick blast with the air hammer and the pin is out. The key is to get the links hot quick before the pin gets hot so the pin isn't expanding yet and hit it quick with the hammer and it goes easy. The same thing applied for putting the pin back in. If it doesn't go well the first time you have to wait till it cools off before heating again. I have used this method many times and have done it when alone, all the other advice is applicable such as removeing track pads and having the pin on the sprocket for support. have fun.