ColdBlackWind
Well-Known Member
Thought I would share this with the group. Thanks to Nige, ozarkag and Alex at aristotrucktech for the support. My machine was not achieving the fuel pressure needed to fire the injectors so I had a crank/no start. The culprit ended up being a broken SCV spring. Not available as a replacement part unfortunately. I have heard of several instances of the same. Criminal you can’t by one. Still looking for one out of a take off pump to have as a spare. Anyway here are a couple of things I found to be helpful.
- Drain and clean fuel tank. I used an electric pump and filter to cycle the fuel through onboard filters and back into tank. I cleaned the pre-filter 2 times during the process. I then pumped all the fuel into cans to be used for fire starter. Installed new fuel filters when finished.
- Disconnect the fuel return line at the rubber hose end and not banjo fitting end.
- I found this steerable camera to be invaluable for disassembling and assembling. Less than $100
- Slide pump back and take the connector off SCV after unbolting pump. Hard to get a grip with it in place.
- Mark the pump drive and idler gear by scratching them. Not with a marker!!
- Before pulling the gear use a socket on the nut for the new pump and find out where the pump can be turned without being loaded against the spring. The key and keyway align with a hole in the drive gear. That will tell you where to rotate the engine before removing the gear. I didn’t do this and it was a bitch to get the pump turned to the correct position to install gear.
- When you are ready to go back with the new pump make this tool out of a cheap deepwell socket. I used this socket to rotate pump once installed and the camera to look at the key through keyway and the alignment marks on the gears to get everything in mesh. Worked nicely.
- Drain and clean fuel tank. I used an electric pump and filter to cycle the fuel through onboard filters and back into tank. I cleaned the pre-filter 2 times during the process. I then pumped all the fuel into cans to be used for fire starter. Installed new fuel filters when finished.
- Disconnect the fuel return line at the rubber hose end and not banjo fitting end.
- I found this steerable camera to be invaluable for disassembling and assembling. Less than $100
- Slide pump back and take the connector off SCV after unbolting pump. Hard to get a grip with it in place.
- Mark the pump drive and idler gear by scratching them. Not with a marker!!
- Before pulling the gear use a socket on the nut for the new pump and find out where the pump can be turned without being loaded against the spring. The key and keyway align with a hole in the drive gear. That will tell you where to rotate the engine before removing the gear. I didn’t do this and it was a bitch to get the pump turned to the correct position to install gear.
- When you are ready to go back with the new pump make this tool out of a cheap deepwell socket. I used this socket to rotate pump once installed and the camera to look at the key through keyway and the alignment marks on the gears to get everything in mesh. Worked nicely.
