Nige
Senior Member
Well worth it considering the cost of manuals.
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Cat D7D Non-Running Project
- Thread starter bulletpruf
- Start date
bulletpruf
Well-Known Member
Yes, the manuals are not cheap. Thanks
bulletpruf
Well-Known Member
Actually, the manuals are cheaper than I expected. I found the operators manual, parts manual, and service manual on eBay. Less than $100 for them all.
OzDozer
Senior Member
Bulletpruf, the major thing to keep in mind here is that this tractor has had a "long and colorful" history, with an engine at least that is not original, and possibly more non-original parts/components.
As engineering design changes are frequent with Cats, you will most likely find the manuals you've bought for the D7D may show numerous parts and components that don't match with what you've got.
As Hector Gemme has already pointed out, the tractor has been repowered with a D7E engine.
Although the D7D and D7E used the same engine (the D339), there were numerous design changes to the D7E engine, not the least of which was an upgrade in engine output from 140HP in the D7D to 160HP in the D7E.
So you will quite likely need a parts book for an early D7E as well, if you need to work on the engine.
Here is the operating instructions and parts book for the D7D winch ...
As engineering design changes are frequent with Cats, you will most likely find the manuals you've bought for the D7D may show numerous parts and components that don't match with what you've got.
As Hector Gemme has already pointed out, the tractor has been repowered with a D7E engine.
Although the D7D and D7E used the same engine (the D339), there were numerous design changes to the D7E engine, not the least of which was an upgrade in engine output from 140HP in the D7D to 160HP in the D7E.
So you will quite likely need a parts book for an early D7E as well, if you need to work on the engine.
Here is the operating instructions and parts book for the D7D winch ...
bulletpruf
Well-Known Member
Good point on the manuals; I look for a service manual that covers the D7E.
Thanks for the link to the winch manual! That was the next one that I was going to look for.
Scott
Thanks for the link to the winch manual! That was the next one that I was going to look for.
Scott
bulletpruf
Well-Known Member
Would this tractor have a live PTO? My manuals still haven't arrived and I'm trying to figure out why the winch spins when I'm trying to start it.
If it's not a live PTO, then the clutch is hanging up, right?
Thanks
If it's not a live PTO, then the clutch is hanging up, right?
Thanks
It could be , when you run the main motor by the pony the gearbox should be in neutral with the main clutch engaged . The PTO shaft will be spinning . If the winch is spinning with the main clutch disengaged try pushing the main clutch leaver hard forward , their is a inertia brake on it . At one point I had 50 grade oil in my main clutch which caused problems till it got warm after about 15 minutes , returned the oil to a lighter grade and that problem of excess inertia was solved . I was told the D7E I had was 180 hp , far different beast to the D7D . I don't think the machine numbers were in the casting on the D7E's like the 17a's which is a pity .
bulletpruf
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the details! Someone else mentioned the clutch brake to me; may have to pull up the floor plates to take a look.
Scott
bulletpruf
Well-Known Member
hector gemme
Well-Known Member
Yes you need to removed some floor plate to see the brake cluch maybe he need adjustement or change the small lining
bulletpruf
Well-Known Member
Someone from the ACMOC site was kind enough to send me to scanned pages above.
bulletpruf
Well-Known Member
Ok, thanks.
bulletpruf
Well-Known Member
Headed back to turn wrenches on the D7 again tomorrow. Wish me luck!
OzDozer
Senior Member
The clutch is likely to need adjustment as Hector says. This is an oil master clutch, it has a dipstick for the clutch compartment oil level, make sure it has oil in it, and it's up to the correct level.
bulletpruf
Well-Known Member
Yes, I plan to take a look at the clutch brake and check the oil level as well. If it's low, I'll add some 30W transmission oil.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
How much do you plan to spend on this D7? To get it running and operating correctly will likely cost a lot more than it's worth. Might be better to abandon this one and look for something a little more promising where at least some things are in working order.
Old Growth
Well-Known Member
Your missing the bigger picture here!
The dozer is worthless, but the YouTube content is priceless!
Welder Dave
Senior Member
It could/would be very entertaining to see a series of you tube video's on how much of a money pit an old dozer can be. A few slip ups and scraped knuckles would add to the excitement. As long as it's not my money go for it. It would be right up there with an epic repair thread like the infamous D6C loss of oil pressure thread. Let us know when to start the popcorn. I can't wait!
bulletpruf
Well-Known Member
It's certainly not economically feasible to rescue an old dozer like this and I absolutely would be much better off with something in better condition.
Having said that, as @Old Growth mentioned, it's good YouTube content. I'm also learning a lot, having fun, and it's supposed to be sunny and 65 degrees here today, so it's a good excuse to get off the computer, bust a knuckle or two, and get some fresh air. My total expenditures have been about $150, so I'm not heavily invested, either.
It's a win-win situation for the owner, too -- the dozer has been for sale for months with no takers. Hopefully we get it running and operating and he can sell it for more than he was asking for it.
Thanks
Having said that, as @Old Growth mentioned, it's good YouTube content. I'm also learning a lot, having fun, and it's supposed to be sunny and 65 degrees here today, so it's a good excuse to get off the computer, bust a knuckle or two, and get some fresh air. My total expenditures have been about $150, so I'm not heavily invested, either.
It's a win-win situation for the owner, too -- the dozer has been for sale for months with no takers. Hopefully we get it running and operating and he can sell it for more than he was asking for it.
Thanks
bulletpruf
Well-Known Member
Today was a good freaking day!
On the road at 6:30 am. Picked up my buddy Will at 6:45 and we headed south.
Arrived at 8:40 am. Got unloaded and got to work.
Hit the bolts on the monster winch access cover with some 50/50. They came off with ease. Immediately inside was where the two cables entered the winch housing, one for brake, one for engage/disengage. Will managed to free up the brake lever with some 50/50 and elbow grease. We couldn't get the engage/disengage cable to free up, so we cut the cable at the winch with a death wheel and unthreaded the stub from the actuating lever inside the winch. Once that was done, we freed up the lever with equal applications of 50/50, brute force, and curse words. Once we had the engine turning over later in the day, we figured out which position was neutral and left it there so the winch wouldn't spin when the engine was turning over.
We worked on the clutch and clutch brake next. Checked the oil level in the clutch and it was good; oil was clean, too. We also figured out that the clutch brake was not actuating as it should have been when I tried to start the tractor last time, but I managed to get it in place to where it would actuate if the brake itself wasn't junk...more on this later.
Next we worked on the fuel system. I removed the cover to the rack and hosed everything down with 50/50. Then, with Will watching the rack, I spun the tractor over using the HF 24v jump pack. Will reported that all the spring loaded plungers were moving up and down except for one, which was stuck in the up position. So I managed to gently persuade it to move back down to where it was in contact with the cam...and then spun the engine over again...and it stuck up again... We went back and forth for about 10 iterations of application of 50/50 and gentle persuasion and finally the plunger moved up and down its own.
At that point, we weren't trying to start the engine, and we weren't building oil pressure, but I did see a slight puff of smoke from the exhaust, so then I cracked open the fuel lines at the injectors about 1/2 turn. Spun it over some more and got a fair amount of fuel flowing from each fuel line, so I snugged them down and decided to see if she would crank.
Now that it had been spinning over for a while, the jump pack was getting a bit tired, so we went up to the owner's house and picked up the pair of 8D batteries. Wired them up for 24V and gave her the beans. I didn't get much of anything with the decompression lever in the START position, but when I switched it to the RUN position, I started getting some smoke out the exhaust, so I gave her a little whiff of ether. Engine picked up and started to catch like it was going to start. This happened a few times and then she lit for good! It was running fairly rough at first, but that's because I didn't have the decompression lever all the way shut. Once I shut it, she cleaned up and idled nicely! Great oil pressure, too!
From there, I tried to get her to move by putting the forward/reverse lever in either forward or reverse, but no such luck; all it would do is grind and I wasn't about to force it. Even with the clutch lever in the disengage position and the clutch brake on, the clutch still seemed to be dragging. I could see the driveshaft spinning, too, so I suspect the clutch is dragging and the clutch brake is smoked.
At that point, we were out of time and had to head north back to San Antonio.
On the way back I spoke with a guy who owns a D7 of similar vintage (D7E) and he said he has had a similar clutch brake problem with his, and he will just crank the engine over with the tractor in forward and low gear. That will either actually start the dozer in gear or it will break the clutch free so it's no longer dragging.
On the way home I also spoke with the D7D owner (he's out of town for work) and he's tickled pink that the old girl is running again.
Plan is to head back out there again in the next week or so to drain the water out of the transmission (we didn't have the correct tool to remove the drain plug) and see if we can actually get it to move.
FYI - I love to complain about south Texas summers, but days like today do NOT suck - sunny and highs in the low 70's. I was in short sleeves at the end of the day.
I'll work on editing the video over the next few days and will post to my YT channel.
On the road at 6:30 am. Picked up my buddy Will at 6:45 and we headed south.
Arrived at 8:40 am. Got unloaded and got to work.
Hit the bolts on the monster winch access cover with some 50/50. They came off with ease. Immediately inside was where the two cables entered the winch housing, one for brake, one for engage/disengage. Will managed to free up the brake lever with some 50/50 and elbow grease. We couldn't get the engage/disengage cable to free up, so we cut the cable at the winch with a death wheel and unthreaded the stub from the actuating lever inside the winch. Once that was done, we freed up the lever with equal applications of 50/50, brute force, and curse words. Once we had the engine turning over later in the day, we figured out which position was neutral and left it there so the winch wouldn't spin when the engine was turning over.
We worked on the clutch and clutch brake next. Checked the oil level in the clutch and it was good; oil was clean, too. We also figured out that the clutch brake was not actuating as it should have been when I tried to start the tractor last time, but I managed to get it in place to where it would actuate if the brake itself wasn't junk...more on this later.
Next we worked on the fuel system. I removed the cover to the rack and hosed everything down with 50/50. Then, with Will watching the rack, I spun the tractor over using the HF 24v jump pack. Will reported that all the spring loaded plungers were moving up and down except for one, which was stuck in the up position. So I managed to gently persuade it to move back down to where it was in contact with the cam...and then spun the engine over again...and it stuck up again... We went back and forth for about 10 iterations of application of 50/50 and gentle persuasion and finally the plunger moved up and down its own.
At that point, we weren't trying to start the engine, and we weren't building oil pressure, but I did see a slight puff of smoke from the exhaust, so then I cracked open the fuel lines at the injectors about 1/2 turn. Spun it over some more and got a fair amount of fuel flowing from each fuel line, so I snugged them down and decided to see if she would crank.
Now that it had been spinning over for a while, the jump pack was getting a bit tired, so we went up to the owner's house and picked up the pair of 8D batteries. Wired them up for 24V and gave her the beans. I didn't get much of anything with the decompression lever in the START position, but when I switched it to the RUN position, I started getting some smoke out the exhaust, so I gave her a little whiff of ether. Engine picked up and started to catch like it was going to start. This happened a few times and then she lit for good! It was running fairly rough at first, but that's because I didn't have the decompression lever all the way shut. Once I shut it, she cleaned up and idled nicely! Great oil pressure, too!
From there, I tried to get her to move by putting the forward/reverse lever in either forward or reverse, but no such luck; all it would do is grind and I wasn't about to force it. Even with the clutch lever in the disengage position and the clutch brake on, the clutch still seemed to be dragging. I could see the driveshaft spinning, too, so I suspect the clutch is dragging and the clutch brake is smoked.
At that point, we were out of time and had to head north back to San Antonio.
On the way back I spoke with a guy who owns a D7 of similar vintage (D7E) and he said he has had a similar clutch brake problem with his, and he will just crank the engine over with the tractor in forward and low gear. That will either actually start the dozer in gear or it will break the clutch free so it's no longer dragging.
On the way home I also spoke with the D7D owner (he's out of town for work) and he's tickled pink that the old girl is running again.
Plan is to head back out there again in the next week or so to drain the water out of the transmission (we didn't have the correct tool to remove the drain plug) and see if we can actually get it to move.
FYI - I love to complain about south Texas summers, but days like today do NOT suck - sunny and highs in the low 70's. I was in short sleeves at the end of the day.
I'll work on editing the video over the next few days and will post to my YT channel.