cat 963b track will not tighten will not take grease

[mike tbo]

Hello I think I posted this in wrong place first time I have a 963b and cannot get the left track to take grease, I removed the release grease cover, and the grease fitting will pump grease easly out so the fitting is working. With the grease release fitting off I drove the loader thinking the cylinder would break free and push grease out and nothing. I marked the cylinder and its just stuck. Again with the fitting closed I put a chain on the bucket and put around the y arm and pulled the track out slowly wile pumping grease until tight about 3/4 inch then tried to hand pump grease more and nothing.... its froze up.. I was told to get a pole and wedge between track and bucket and with fitting open try to push the cylinder back in with the bucket which I thought was a good idea. Its definitely not extended out all the way as the right track is much further out and it tightened fine. anyone herd of this?? I also have another issue i will post in a new thread

 

[Bob/Ont]

Are the recoil spring retaining pins broken allowing the spring to get crooked?
Later Bob

 

[mike tbo]

Are the recoil spring retaining pins broken allowing the spring to get crooked?
Later Bob

Here is a picture and I don't know where the recoil springs are or where to check the pins?? also this is a picture before we bought the loader notice how tight the tracks are... the first thing we was loosen them up never had to tighten again until a year later and we can't now. where the cylinder goes into the body there are two sizes, a smaller one that is towards front connected to the Y and thats the one that slides our on the right track when grease is applied. there is an outer sleeve which may be the spring and thats the one that moved when we pulled the track out, when we released the pressure is went right back and the small cylinder never moved at all inside the larger sleeve.

 

[Dickjr.]

Bob is the track loader guru , but I do know that under that 3/4 plug on the roller frame there is a grease fitting. Those rods tend to stick sometimes if this is not greased every couple hundred hours. I'd grease it and then try to get the idler against a tree and put a little pressure on it. The post between the bucket and idler can cause a projectile if it moves or pops a certain way.

 

[mike tbo]

Good idea I did grease it but didn't put too much as I didn't know what it was thanks

 

[Bob/Ont]

Did you take the plate off of the top of the frame half way back to the carrier roller?
Later Bob

 

[Nige]

Try this. The diagram below is what the tensioner and idler mechanism looks like.

 

[mike tbo]

Thank You!!!!!!!!

 

[mike tbo]

Yes I did and removed the plate over the grease release hole thanks,

 

[Nige]

If the tensioner won't go forward, will it go backwards? Try opening the grease valve and put a slug of round bar in one of the sprocket teeth. Then slowly back up. This is the normal method of pulling tensioners back to do track changes, it might just work in your case also. Once you can get the tensioner to move in one direction then maybe pumping back in the other direction might be less of a problem. Maybe get some more grease into the fitting mentioned above in post #4 by DickJr before you start.

 

[mike tbo]

If the tensioner won't go forward, will it go backwards? Try opening the grease valve and put a slug of round bar in one of the sprocket teeth. Then slowly back up. This is the normal method of pulling tensioners back to do track changes, it might just work in your case also. Once you can get the tensioner to move in one direction then maybe pumping back in the other direction might be less of a problem. Maybe get some more grease into the fitting mentioned above in post #4 by DickJr before you start.

Great advice thank you after seeing the diagram and understanding how the spring recoil works I think what was happening as as I was pulling the track out with the chain it only came out about three quarters of an inch but it actually was the spring stretching. Then when we relieve the pressure of the spring just pulled back in. So that sounds like that could be it the recoil grease fitting needs to be greased up real well and I love the idea of putting the slug in the sprocket to pull it back I'll let you guys know tomorrow when I get a chance to work on it.

 

[Nige]

You'll need a slug of round bar of a diameter that will nicely fit into the sprocket tooth, probably about 3" or thereabouts. Length-wise you're probably looking at something around 9-12" long. Don't go too short in length or too small on the diameter, all you'll do is bend the bar.

 

[mike tbo]

 

[mike tbo]

 

[Dickjr.]

I assume it was completely froze up? I've rebuilt these on a 953C , but not a 63 , looks similar. Are you removing the slack adjuster to have it pressed out? I believe there are 2 bushings the rod rides on that will need replacing.

 

[mike tbo]

Just want to follow up on my stuck track piston, My Idle pivots were worn out so I decided to rebuild the entire front end, I had to heat the piston unit to get it out not easy I did the entire job by my self a lot of thinking on using leverage and weight to my advantage. Got it done then blew a hydraulic hose in the engine and had to jack the cab to fix it, then I think I pinched a line when I let the cab down as my bucket will not work, heading to the barn to lift it back up I will post what I find thanks for the help.

 

[mike tbo]

Yes we actually welded some brackets to the frame and used a railroad jack to force it out with no luck. so I had the replace the piston, after I pulled it out i noticed i could have twisted it instead of pulling it and may have got it lose that way. But now its like new new seals both sides.

 

[Dickjr.]

Your replacing the swing arms and bushings in the rock guards etc. Its not to bad of a job. Now your familiar with all that and know where all the little fittings are you will likely never have a problem again. No one never greases the rock guard inside and outside or the one under the pipe plug. Surprising they look as good as they do when not greased at all. Looks like you have it going your way. Are you getting two new complete Idler assemblies?

 

[mike tbo]

Your replacing the swing arms and bushings in the rock guards etc. Its not to bad of a job. Now your familiar with all that and know where all the little fittings are you will likely never have a problem again. No one never greases the rock guard inside and outside or the one under the pipe plug. Surprising they look as good as they do when not greased at all. Looks like you have it going your way. Are you getting two new complete Idler assemblies?

Thanks, you right My steer skid was my best friend, I sure do know whats important to grease now. I replaced the lower idler brackets and the guards, cut the sleeves of the lower pivots and installed new ones, I swapped sides the wheels as they were wearing on the outside a little bit then rebuilt both pistons one new and all seals. My next issue is I blew a hose to the trans had to jack the cab up and when i was done my bucket would not work, I was advised i pinched a hose when I let the cab down but just checked and it wasn't and still no bucket. I did mistakenly unhook the large feeder hose from the front hydro tank at the pump and I think I lost my prime. when that happens do you think it need to run for several minuets or can it be bled? I will send a picture I have another thread for that thanks