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Cat 955L pinion bearings, steering clutches and undercarriage oh my!

workshoprat92

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Dec 15, 2014
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Bois D Arc Missouri
Should get a chance today to measure end float and take video. Also pour over the part numbers of my cases and the bearing I have already bought. Fortunately cat was real good about putting part numbers on their cast parts.
 

lantraxco

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Having spent the duration of the video thinking about it, it occurs to me that as long as the bearings are within the races, the end float is irrelevant, though that does seem excessive. What is important here is the spacing of all the bits, and what has happened seems to be that the spacing erred to the outside far enough for one or two friction plates to come out of the grooves and catch the outside of the drum, thus thrusting the pinion out through the case.

As a side note, I don't recall that style steering clutch needing any play in the flanges to remove, if they're in good order the whole clutch pack should slip in the grooves thus making the clutch unit a good bit narrower and you can pull it all out. Somebody correct me gently if I'm wrong?
 

tctractors

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Oct 9, 2007
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Worc U.K.
The end float on that top pinion is way to much, its usually less than the lift so something is not correct within this area.
tctractors
 

Scrub Puller

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Mar 29, 2009
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Gladstone Queensland Australia
Yair . . .

lantraxco. I have done many more Allis's than Cats but I think they all specified a stack height and a wear limit on individual plates . . . in other words plate count could vary and, conceivably, it would be possible to sneak in an extra plate or two and make the pack too wide.

Normal procedure was to undo the clutch pack from the cross-shaft and slide it into the brake drum for removal. We used to move the machine forward with a jack under a grouser to access the bolts . . . worst part on those dry azz end Twenty ones was the sooty black asbestos ridden mess and the two rows of bolts holding the brake drum and the clutch had drilled heads and were wired.

All the wires had to be removed before a modified ring spanner would grip the heads and then, going back in the wires had to be reinstalled with no room to twist and little room to see.

I'll shut up now or I'll have nightmares in my sleep. (big grin)

Cheers.
 

Nige

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G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
Having spent the duration of the video thinking about it, it occurs to me that as long as the bearings are within the races, the end float is irrelevant, though that does seem excessive. What is important here is the spacing of all the bits, and what has happened seems to be that the spacing erred to the outside far enough for one or two friction plates to come out of the grooves and catch the outside of the drum, thus thrusting the pinion out through the case.
The OP and myself have been emailing on this one. The end float is 0.105" to which I replied that IMO that was probably about 0.100" too much. The lift was 0.033".

If you remember the story the finals on this tractor were rebuilt before and a pinion poked it's way through one of the cases. Having looked at the Parts Manual online it would appear that the problem could potentially stem from someone using mismatched parts on a previous rebuild, or simply using a paper Parts Manual for an incorrect Serial Number range.

To give members an idea, for the 9555L of Serial Numbers 85J4672-11762 (last built) there are no less than 12 different Serial Number ranges for the Final Drive. Within the 12 groups there are 5 different Part Numbers for the outer case, 2 different pinion Part Numbers, and a plethora of different bearing Part Numbers all of which are slightly different widths. Use all the parts that match the machine Serial Number and there should be no problem, don't and all bets are off IMHO.
 

workshoprat92

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Dec 15, 2014
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817
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Bois D Arc Missouri
My manual has the measurements for the stack height of the disc pack and we did measure that. The stack height did fall within specified range and there was the correct number of discs and steels.

I think if all the part numbers are correct in my RH side then the bearings are probably in the process of failure. Once I get my RH side put back together with all correct parts I can see what end play is on the new parts. If it is correct that the RH side bearings are failing it then raises the question what made them fail? I have a bunch of work to get to the point I will know but I will get there nonetheless. lol
 

lantraxco

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Jan 1, 2009
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People tend to ignore final drives, if they even know there's a check plug there. Seen it way too often where they run low on lube and it's amazing how blue the gears and bearings will be before they finally give up. Just a guess, yours may be fine in that department.
 

workshoprat92

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Dec 15, 2014
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Bois D Arc Missouri
Come to think about it, surely the only way you'll get excessive lift on that pinion shaft is if the bearings are on the way out, no..?

well the new bearing and race fit together real nice and it would be hard to see where it would have any slop to it at all. Today i spent pulling pads off of a 963 chain I bought to cut down to fit our 955. I have all of one chain done and 7 off the other chain. Making my old 1" impact and air compressor earn their keep lol. Trying to get all my outside work done so when it turns to crap i can pull stuff inside and work nice and warm with radio on and shop stove ablaze.
 

workshoprat92

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Dec 15, 2014
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Bois D Arc Missouri
hey does anyone know do 963 Track bolts have a metric head? they seem smaller than 1-1/8" and bigger than 1-1/16". they kinda get stuck in the socket and its a bit of work to get em out. they are probably just diminished in size from use but not sure on that.
 

lantraxco

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Some of my best memories revolve around an old shop smelling of old grease, working with rough men, and a roaring fire in a glowing orange barrel stove. It was good to be "The kid" then, shagging tools, scraping gaskets and feeding cord wood to the hungry fire, which was usually assisted with a bit of waste oil. :eek:
 

Nige

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G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
hey does anyone know do 963 Track bolts have a metric head? they seem smaller than 1-1/8" and bigger than 1-1/16". they kinda get stuck in the socket and its a bit of work to get em out. they are probably just diminished in size from use but not sure on that.
They're 3/4" NF thread. Should be 1-1/8" heads but as you say the heads are most likely worn down. If you have a 28mm metric socket handy that might work, it's a hair less than 1-1/8".
 

workshoprat92

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Dec 15, 2014
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Bois D Arc Missouri
started working on this project again and while cleaning parts and installing bearings to get ready to put the LH final drive back together i noticed on the idler gear the bearing race was not completely seated on the shaft. I don't think this is the cause of the issue and the bearings on this gear were not chewed up. I just think it odd that this would have not been seated all the way and did not cause abnormal wear.

20151119_110244.jpg
 

workshoprat92

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Bois D Arc Missouri
Ye know I really don't know. when we bought the machine the LH final was all disassembled and the track from laying off to the side. We took the gear out and it rode home with us in the back of a PU truck. we then put the final loosely back together without the gear installed and loosely installed track frame and track just to get it on the trailer and get it home. If I had to guess I would say its just from being moved around so much. In the airplane world we call it hangar rash.

It is possible the mechanic before us tried removing the race with a punch before deciding they didn't want to spend the money to get the machine back up and running. Its just so hard to tell as there is so much ODD stuff on this machine.

So far the purchase of it served our purpose of getting our other machine up and running. anything we can get out of this machine at this point is just a bonus. I just hate to see the old girl die though so I am going to take my best shot at getting her back together right!
 

workshoprat92

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Dec 15, 2014
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Bois D Arc Missouri
I think I may have the wrong sprocket for the LH side. I show in my book I should have a 1V7873. What I have is 3V2093 which is part of the wide gauge arrangements which I do not have. the main difference is that this sprocket does not have the holes for the rivets to hold the guards on. I dont know that using this sprocket would cause the issues I have though. Looking at the parts diagrams I see why it does not have the holes for the rivets and the guards. the carriers and places where the duo cone seals mount are different and have this feature build in so no need for the extra guard riveted on. some dill hole welded the guards on my sprocket and did a sloppy job of it.

If the only basic difference between these two part numbers is the holes for the rivets then I think I can make a spacer on my lathe out of wood to perfectly position the guard on the sprocket and use my mag base drill with a bit of fixturing and drill the required holes using the guard as a template. this way I should be able to get the holes perfectly straight. something just bugs the shoot out me to weld these on like they had them.

Looking at the RH side I see the guards have rivet heads indicating that this RH sprocket may be closer to correct. Other than the fact some hack has welded the segments tot he sprocket!

I really would like to find a complete steering clutch housing with finals that I could swing entire unit onto my machine.
 
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