Cat 416C. New to me. Questions...

[cgraham1]

Lights " you don't need *)*)_&^^% lights", mechanic said one day.

Unless you drive your tractor when it's dark outside! Mechanics...:Banghead

The back holes.... for digging straight down at the start of the trench.
The front ones are for loading trucks. It keeps the bucket close to the boom , so the material stays in the bucket.

It might take a while to load a truck with a 12" bucket!

 

[firestarter]

anybody know if there should be an ignition warning light on a cat 428 1988? machine runs fine but the battery is not charging. I have only just bought the machine. the bloke who sold it had fitted a new alternator and "said" it all worked fine.....

 

[willie59]

Welcome to the forum firestarter. :usa

Your now a Junior Member and can start a new thread about your question with your machine.

 

[firestarter]

thanks ATCOEQuip

 

[rooferdave]

I have 2 questions on my cat 416, one where to get a reasonable used tranny or parts for (the dreaded retaining clip let go) and 2 I have to move it and the boom, bucket and arms are down with the tranny out I cannot start it, is it possible to add an outside pump to the hydrolics? Or way to lift them with my forklift?

 

[Lee-online]

Depending on what model you have you can move the boom with another piece of equipment and move the control lever to allow the oil to pass through the valve. If it is a pilot operated joy stick then that wont work and it may be better to just remove the hose on the cylinder. The stabilizers have lock valves so it is easier to remove the hose and allow the oil to flow into a bucket while lifting them. chain them up

 

[rooferdave]

thank! I am going to the shop soon and will try it.

 

[DGODGR]

This is a really old post but I am going to respond to some of these questions anyway.

This set up is, in my opinion, very frustrating and often times useless. I will give you what it took for me too at least make it functional. The D series is better and the E series is again an improvement. That said, here we go...
#1 The only point for real adjustment.
#2 I have had good luck by using a die grinder and re shaping the hooks for better retention of the boom.
#3 Take this apart and clean and lubricate. I've found that if it sits too long in the unlocked position, it will find a seize point and not go all the way back too a locked position.
This area obviously needs grease as you can see rust stains from the water running through here.
#4 Total waste of time too take apart unless you are replacing the entire cable. Even at that it is a PITA.
#5 "yoke/joke" This, as soon as it gets bent is a royal frustration to reshape and have work properly ever again. It takes patience. Even though I listed it at #5, it is often the best place to start.I have never bent this in over 12,000 hours.
View attachment 40138

ddiiggy. I wish the best for you on your new acquisition. I will add some of my experience with a 416C. When new (less than a year old or <1500hrs) on 2 416C's we lost the reverser. It was under warranty on both machines so it cost the company nothing but down time. The cost would have been in the $6-800.00 range too repair. Other than that everything was good., for me.
Other operators at the time reported having to do the rear ends in their machines a couple of times. At the time I didn't understand why but now I have learned that when the brakes go it requires a complete disassembly of the rear end. It is quite costly to have Cat do it $6 000.00+/-. The guy that bought the macine I ran had it done for $1 400.00 by an independent HEM. No problems since but the estimated time is around 6 000 hrs for the components. 6,000 hours is on the mark. I have done the brakes 2x on mine. It's a big job but worth the trouble. $1,400 is not realistic. Parts alone are $1,300. It takes a day with two people.

Other than that the 416C was a great productive machine in my opinion.

I don't even have a front windshield.
Just the two SMALL glass pieces below dash level.
It doesn't look like there has ever been glass in there. :beatsme
All open ROPS CAT backhoes are like this.


Thanks everybody for answers so far.


Just a couple more questions:

The pins in the boom swing are getting sloppy.
I attached the picture #4 above and forgot to ask about it.
It doesn't look like there are bushings in there to replace.
What is general way to make them better?
Replacemnt of the pins and the bushings in the rod eye is the only option short of replacement of the whole swing tower. Others have said that the engineers should have put busings in the swing tower. This would be a great idea, except for the fact that the swing tower is cast iron. This material was chosen because it will flex instead of break. The downside is that it is a relatively soft material. Bushings would be ineffective in preventing these areas from getting loose. The cast iron would be softer than the bushings thus transfering the wear point to the cast iron that would surround the bushings. I replaced the swing tower at around 4,990 hours. I chose to do this in an effort to tighten things up (the boom was already off because of a warranty replacement of the boom) so I only had to pay for the part ($1,100) and a couple hours of labor. The tractor now has over 12,000 hours with the same swing tower (7,000 hours + on that component). It is a little loose but quite acceptable. I would not recommend replacement unless this area is SEVERELY worn or broken.

What suggestions do you have for getting another bucket?
This thing came with a 12" wide bucket.
What sizes are available? 12", 18"?, 24"?, 30"?, 36"?
What size would you suggest for general purposes?

24" bucket is the most widely accepted bucket, for this size machine, if you can only have one bucket (as others have said).

I also have a couple of questions on TLB.
I checked out a 2002Cat 420D with 1500 hrs and is in great shape except for an oil leak on the diff. One thing that I don't know if this is normal is that the brakes moan and groan when I tried them out. The unit has sat around for a couple of yeas with very little use. I know that it uses wet brakes so where is the noise coming from? Anyone have an answer?

Tigger

This is common to the ZF rear ends. Ford and New Holland backhoes did this too (same rear diff.). It is easily remedied. See reply below. I would be concerned about the oil leak AND chatter though. It is possible that there may not be any oil in the diff.

Go to a Ford dealership and get some "Anti-chatter" brake additive and add it to the rear diff. I don't remember the exact name for it. The chatter is common in the 'C' and 'D' series. Our Cat dealer said it isn't anything to be concerned about, although it is annoying.

This became available at Cat dealers too. I'm not sure if they still carry it as the Cat MTO has the additive (or equivilant) in it. Cat has an upgraded brake disc option. The discs contain Kevlar and require different oil. I don't recall which is recommended so check with your dealer if you have Kevlar discs on the diff.

thank! I am going to the shop soon and will try it.

You still haven't found parts for that tranny yet? That sucks. If you open the hydraulic system, to move the machine, don't forget that since the pump is not running there will be no source of oil to fill the opposite side of the piston (in whatever cylinder that is attached to the component that you are moving) so it will relax, or bleed off, instead of staying put. I would also be careful when openning the system. If the component is not fully supported gravity will pull it down once you release the hydraulic pressure (by openning the system).

 

[rooferdave]

This is a really old post but I am going to respond to some of these questions anyway.





24" bucket is the most widely accepted bucket, for this size machine, if you can only have one bucket (as others have said).


This is common to the ZF rear ends. Ford and New Holland backhoes did this too (same rear diff.). It is easily remedied. See reply below. I would be concerned about the oil leak AND chatter though. It is possible that there may not be any oil in the diff.


This became available at Cat dealers too. I'm not sure if they still carry it as the Cat MTO has the additive (or equivilant) in it. Cat has an upgraded brake disc option. The discs contain Kevlar and require different oil. I don't recall which is recommended so check with your dealer if you have Kevlar discs on the diff.


You still haven't found parts for that tranny yet? That sucks. If you open the hydraulic system, to move the machine, don't forget that since the pump is not running there will be no source of oil to fill the opposite side of the piston (in whatever cylinder that is attached to the component that you are moving) so it will relax, or bleed off, instead of staying put. I would also be careful when openning the system. If the component is not fully supported gravity will pull it down once you release the hydraulic pressure (by openning the system).

do you know me? yes I have been looking for parts for 7 weeks. I lifted the front bucket and hit the control for up to release the fluid, machine has a mechanism to keep the bucket up...used a comalong for one side and a chainfall for the other and loosened the lines to allow movement, then tied off with 5/8's polypropelene rope. Back was a real adventure with the chain fall, then had to push the machine back as when the chain is directly above the little bucket, it will lift the machine instead of putting the boom close enough to lock. Also we had the chain on a bucket tooth so we tied a chain between rear boom and front bucket as a backup incase it slipped or tooth broke and had to adjust as we got closer. Anyhow all done and tomorrow we we move it out of our way.

thanx for the input guys

Dave

 

[DGODGR]

do you know me? yes I have been looking for parts for 7 weeks. I lifted the front bucket and hit the control for up to release the fluid, machine has a mechanism to keep the bucket up...used a comalong for one side and a chainfall for the other and loosened the lines to allow movement, then tied off with 5/8's polypropelene rope. Back was a real adventure with the chain fall, then had to push the machine back as when the chain is directly above the little bucket, it will lift the machine instead of putting the boom close enough to lock. Also we had the chain on a bucket tooth so we tied a chain between rear boom and front bucket as a backup incase it slipped or tooth broke and had to adjust as we got closer. Anyhow all done and tomorrow we we move it out of our way.

thanx for the input guys

Dave

If I remember correctly you inquired about ranny parts on a plow forum. That's how I new you were looking.

 

[rooferdave]

If I remember correctly you inquired about ranny parts on a plow forum. That's how I new you were looking.

yes I am on ********, what is your handle their?

 

[Jpugleasa]

My tractor came with an auger attachment. I have a similar setup, only mine is Teed off the the bucket curl circuit (which is nice because I can still use the extenda-hoe if I need a little more reach). I have case 4 stick controls so it's got it's own lever. It might be a little confusing with wobble sticks?:beatsme

I just got a 420E IT 2008 2700h
I'd like an auger but $$$. Right now I'm trying to figure out the switches on the dash. Did not come with manuals and trying to find free downloads
I'd like to see a pig of the auger mounted

 

[Nige]

There are no free to download Operation & Maintenance manuals AFAIK but you can download one from Cat for around $50 - SEBU7687.