• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

cat 416c 4x4 steering rod removal

backspacer

Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2015
Messages
23
Location
Hampstead, NC
I have read through several other posts about this which is how I got this far but I can't figure out for the life of me how to get the rod out. I read where I'm suppossed to knock it out from the spanner side to the snap ring side but it won't come out. Is there something else holding it? Spanner nut is removed from right side and snap ring removed from drivers side. Here are some pics of how it is now. Please advise
IMG_1954.jpg IMG_1956.jpg IMG_1957.jpg IMG_1958.jpg
 

backspacer

Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2015
Messages
23
Location
Hampstead, NC
I saw in another thread/post that there is also an internal snap ring on the snap ring side. Is that correct and if so, where in the world is it? I don't see it nor can I figure out where it would be or how to get to it
 

Delmer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,891
Location
WI
That looks like the style of gland that has an internal wire ring fitting in an internal groove on the cylinder. You have to knock the gland INTO the cylinder enough to be able to fish out that ring with a pick or a couple of screwdrivers. It shouldn't be hard at all, unless the gland is rusted to the cylinder.

IF that's the style you're dealing with, you might need to smooth down the burr that the ring has created on the side of that groove in the inside of the cylinder, it will prevent the piston from coming out, and tear up your new seal going back in. Also, might need to fill that groove with a plastic ring, or bondo, to get the piston seals past the groove. So it shouldn't be hard to knock the gland in, and remove the ring. Actually getting the gland, rod and piston out, and then back together can get tricky.
 

Delmer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,891
Location
WI
Thanks Mark, that's a lot less confusion words.

That looks like the snap ring side, but my guess is the other side is very similar.
 

backspacer

Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2015
Messages
23
Location
Hampstead, NC
Yay, I got it done, mostly. The inner compression ring is on the snap ring side. I used a pvc pipe big enough to go over the rod on the snap ring side and knocked the gland in a couple inches to expose the ring. Picked it out and then moved over to the spanner nut side and then used a wood closet rod to tap the steering rod all the way through and out the snap ring side. Replaced all seals and slid back in making sure to go in far enough to put the internal ring back in and then knocked back tight from the spanner side. put spanner nut back on and snap ring back on and hoses back on and verified no leaks. Got spanner nut side tie rod screwed back on but having problems getting snap ring side tie rod back on. Didn't get it lined up good and it started cross threading and killed about a third of the threads on the tie rod. Steering rod threads still ok, they must be much harder than the tie rod threads. Now got to see if I can get it screwed back on some how or going to have to buy a new tierod. How in the world is the easiest way to remove the ball joint end from the tire end? I know your supposed to loosen the nut and knock it up but that thing is seized up. Any advise or tricks on what to do?
 

Tinkerer

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
9,376
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
Thanks, but any other shade tree mechanic tips for those of us with only basic hand tools ;)
If you don't have an air chisel loosen the nut about three full turns. Then put a hydraulic jack under it and put a decent amount of force on it. If you have a two pound or heavier hammer hit the side of the eye a few good whacks. It will pop loose.
If you ever have to remove a steering wheel seized on its shaft you will be wishing you had an air chisel.
A decent air chisel can be purchased for $30.00 or less.:D
 

Jonas302

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2015
Messages
1,198
Location
mn
Yep sharp whacks to the side of the socket with the biggest sledge you can swing in there with some pressure on it will pop right out
 
Top