CAT 299D XHP Alternator not charging

[Simon C]

Ok I was able to perform 2 of the three test you ask the third one i am goi g to have to build a some sort a lead i can not get to the white wire with it hooked up.
first test positive lead .08 Vdc
Second test negative lead .07Vdc.

Was the engine running, revved up and lights and heater fan on cause,
#1 test should of given a number like 0.2-0.5 volts typically
#2 test should of given a number like 0.3.0.5 volts if the lights are on and fan is blowing, your reading is about 1/10th of normal loss which tells me your meter is no good or something else could be wrong.
You have to have some voltage loss in cables and connections, but too much means there will be problems for starting or charging. Maybe the electrical load is low compared to when starting is all I can think of. That being the case the test Arny said to do would verify if there is sufficient power to the white wire,, if it passes that something is wrong with the Alternator. Could be new and faulty, could tell you an hours worth of stories over the years with faulty parts. Trying to eliminate simple stuff first.
If the cables are not compromised the alternator has to charge.
Simon C

 

[Simon C]

Whoever told you that was also not correct. it seems as though you have been getting some bad advice.

To excite an alternator that does not want to come out to play and start charging battery + voltage should be applied to the R Terminal, not the P Terminal. It says there right on the illustration (note on the bottom RH corner)

Niges explanation is 100% correct, anything you were told otherwise is wrong. It is the white wire that makes that alternator go as he has said.
Simon C

 

[Simon C]

Third test 11.89 Vdc

Sorry I missed that one. Indicates there is something wrong with alternator as far as I can see.
Simon C

 

[S.Fox]

Meter is good not an issue with it I have 3 or more Fluke meters I uses the daily. Yes motor rims above mid way lights and heater fan was on.

 

[S.Fox]

It's just funny how the alternator was working before the battery change and now not working and an another alternator giving me the same issue.

 

[Arny L]

It's just funny how the alternator was working before the battery change and now not working and an another alternator giving me the same issue.

It's just funny how the alternator was working before the battery change and now not working and an another alternator giving me the same issue.

Maybe your new battery is defective, and wont accept a charge. got an old battery you can swap out.

 

[Simon C]

Meter is good not an issue with it I have 3 or more Fluke meters I uses the daily. Yes motor rims above mid way lights and heater fan was on.

Glad you have good Fluke meters. I have 2 Fluke 87-5 and a 1000 amp clamp also.
You seem to have done exactly as asked, which leads me to believe that the problem is the alternator.
If the excitation voltage is there it should charge.
How far down does the battery drop while cranking the engine with the meter leads on the positive and negative posts. But if it was dropping low it would make the alternator charge like crazy in my experience once up and running.
Pointing to a defective alternator to me.
Just to let you know seen a D11R dozer drive into a shop and no start after.
3508 engine with dual starters. There is no way both died at same time. Sorry but yes they did. Sometimes things happen. You could try what Arny has sugggested with another battery but I am doubtful but will know eventually.
Simon C

 

[Arny L]

To completely eliminate green wire as the exciter, put 12v to it and see what happens, If info is accurate,( which it most likely is ) the green wire goes no where, and wont do any harm. Take alternator to a shop, and confirm its functionality. Out of ideas

 

[S.Fox]

To completely eliminate green wire as the exciter, put 12v to it and see what happens, If info is accurate,( which it most likely is ) the green wire goes no where, and wont do any harm. Take alternator to a shop, and confirm its functionality. Out of ideas

There is no shop around here that can test have done tried going down that road.

 

[S.Fox]

According to diagram, field is controlled by white wire, R terminal. Tach is driven off off P terminal. You have your 12v at R, however, that does not have any load on it. You need to verify the integrity of that wire under load. If it’s impossible to access terminals with alternator in place and running, remove alt. and connect a 12v bulb (2-3amp) in series to white wire. Ground one side of bulb and turn on key, if bulb stays lit, you’re good to go. If it goes dim or goes out, you have a bad wire somewhere in harness.

i will try to get this test done this weekend. Thanks

 

[S.Fox]

Whoever told you that was also not correct. it seems as though you have been getting some bad advice.

To excite an alternator that does not want to come out to play and start charging battery + voltage should be applied to the R Terminal, not the P Terminal. It says there right on the illustration (note on the bottom RH corner)

well i guess I will be ordering another Alternator and go from there..

 

[Nige]

well i guess I will be ordering another Alternator and go from there..

Try Arny’s test first then come back with your results before pulling the trigger on another alternator would be my suggestion.

 

[S.Fox]

Try Arny’s test first then come back with your results before pulling the trigger on another alternator would be my suggestion.

Thanks ended up with another alternator and fixed the issue must have gotten a bad one the first time. Now have another issue if it not one thing it's another. My electric actuator will release only will not lock not sure where to go with this I was thinking relay but the chart on the relay panel inside is not correct because pull both relays the in and out and it still got power and was teying to release.

 

[Arny L]

Frustrating to have to troubleshoot a problem twice. What actuator are you referring to?

 

[Simon C]

Thanks ended up with another alternator and fixed the issue must have gotten a bad one the first time. Now have another issue if it not one thing it's another. My electric actuator will release only will not lock not sure where to go with this I was thinking relay but the chart on the relay panel inside is not correct because pull both relays the in and out and it still got power and was teying to release.

So glad it turned out to be your alternator. As I said in Post #27 second line, the information that you gave back was pointing to the alternator. Just watched a video where 3 New ones were all junk from a remanufacturer, so this kind of stuff is happening.
So it is your disconnect for buckets that is not working properly, will look at schematic later on here.
Simon C

 

[S.Fox]

Frustrating to have to troubleshoot a problem twice. What actuator are you referring to?

Attachment actuator

 

[Simon C]

Glad the schematic that Nige supplied was correct about the white wire being the one that controled the alternators charging. Very hard to figure out anything without schematics.
Simon C