Weekend_Warrior
Member
Good Morning All,
I have a 2010 (maybe 2011) Cat 277C that I bought used 2 years ago. I have since put about 300 hours on the machine. Serial #JWF01830.
Maintenance items I've performed:
- New alternator and battery (2Q 2023)
- Replaced a hydraulic tubing line under the cab due to a pin hole leak (2 weeks ago)
- New fuel/water separator (1 week ago)
- New parking brake switch (yesterday)
The issue I am facing now is very similar to the one from THIS POST. The problem started after I replaced a leaking hydraulic tubing line under the cab. The hydraulic tank was drained in the process, and I went back with hoses instead of new tubing for simplicity's sake. The photo below shows the connections of the line I replaced.

Upon initial startup after the line replacement, the parking brake would not disengage when I pressed the parking brake switch, and I was not able to operate the tracks. The yellow blinking warning light would flash (no sound). However, the hydraulic interlock would clear and I was able to operate the arms and bucket. This went on for a few minutes and then went away and I was able to disengage the parking brake. I figured it was due to air in the hydraulic system and fluid needing to refill the voids I created. I operated the machine for 8 hours that day without any more issues.
The following day I operated the machine for 2 more hours and then the issue came back after I got out of the seat momentarily. I returned to the cab and saw the yellow blinking warning light flashing again. Once again, I was not able to disengage the parking brake, but the hydraulic interlock cleared when I pressed the parking brake switch. I was able to operate my arms and bucket.
Since then, I've replaced the parking brake switch and checked the seat switch for functionality.
I haven't checked fuses but will do that next.
Unfortunately, I do not have the optional display on the right-hand side. I was quoted $160/hr with a 3-hour minimum for a technician to troubleshoot. This only includes labor and would be my last resort. I prefer doing this myself to save costs (post-Christmas guilt) and to learn more about my machine for future maintenance. I don't have any schematics so please share if you have them for this machine.
I am curious if this is related to the hydraulic system being drained and I didn't follow a correct procedure when I refilled it. Or if it's just a coincidence and the problem is from a solenoid, switch, or sensor going out. 2 posts that I've come across on this site indicate that it could be a bad left-hand joystick.
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...issue-afraid-i-already-know-the-answer.60031/
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...e-solenoid-testing.105457/page-2#post-1183460
If there is a way to bypass the parking brake I would love to learn how as the machine is out on a property that I am currently working on. Moving it back to the home shop to determine the root cause would be much more convenient.
I understand that it will be very difficult to troubleshoot the issue without being able to scan for codes but have learned that the folks on this forum are very knowledgeable and helpful so I hope that you will please help me get this resolved.
Thank you for your time!
I have a 2010 (maybe 2011) Cat 277C that I bought used 2 years ago. I have since put about 300 hours on the machine. Serial #JWF01830.
Maintenance items I've performed:
- New alternator and battery (2Q 2023)
- Replaced a hydraulic tubing line under the cab due to a pin hole leak (2 weeks ago)
- New fuel/water separator (1 week ago)
- New parking brake switch (yesterday)
The issue I am facing now is very similar to the one from THIS POST. The problem started after I replaced a leaking hydraulic tubing line under the cab. The hydraulic tank was drained in the process, and I went back with hoses instead of new tubing for simplicity's sake. The photo below shows the connections of the line I replaced.

Upon initial startup after the line replacement, the parking brake would not disengage when I pressed the parking brake switch, and I was not able to operate the tracks. The yellow blinking warning light would flash (no sound). However, the hydraulic interlock would clear and I was able to operate the arms and bucket. This went on for a few minutes and then went away and I was able to disengage the parking brake. I figured it was due to air in the hydraulic system and fluid needing to refill the voids I created. I operated the machine for 8 hours that day without any more issues.
The following day I operated the machine for 2 more hours and then the issue came back after I got out of the seat momentarily. I returned to the cab and saw the yellow blinking warning light flashing again. Once again, I was not able to disengage the parking brake, but the hydraulic interlock cleared when I pressed the parking brake switch. I was able to operate my arms and bucket.
Since then, I've replaced the parking brake switch and checked the seat switch for functionality.
I haven't checked fuses but will do that next.
Unfortunately, I do not have the optional display on the right-hand side. I was quoted $160/hr with a 3-hour minimum for a technician to troubleshoot. This only includes labor and would be my last resort. I prefer doing this myself to save costs (post-Christmas guilt) and to learn more about my machine for future maintenance. I don't have any schematics so please share if you have them for this machine.
I am curious if this is related to the hydraulic system being drained and I didn't follow a correct procedure when I refilled it. Or if it's just a coincidence and the problem is from a solenoid, switch, or sensor going out. 2 posts that I've come across on this site indicate that it could be a bad left-hand joystick.
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...issue-afraid-i-already-know-the-answer.60031/
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...e-solenoid-testing.105457/page-2#post-1183460
If there is a way to bypass the parking brake I would love to learn how as the machine is out on a property that I am currently working on. Moving it back to the home shop to determine the root cause would be much more convenient.
I understand that it will be very difficult to troubleshoot the issue without being able to scan for codes but have learned that the folks on this forum are very knowledgeable and helpful so I hope that you will please help me get this resolved.
Thank you for your time!


