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Case 580K with 4BT very slow to turn over

Emerson

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2011
Messages
78
Location
NB, Canada
SO I have a 87 Case.
New alternator, 2 new batteries and new start all within in the last couple years.

I have a slow drain on the batteries so I disconnect them after I'm done using the machine. Last time I started it it turned over really slow and I had to boost it directly to the starter.
A couple days ago I tried to start it and same thing, but even with boosting directly to the start with my 1/2 ton it wouldn't spin over fast enough to start. Also I was spraying cold starting fluid in the breather while cranking.

It's been -20 to -30 here that last week, the block heater has been plugged in and the engine block is warm to the touch.

I've put a slow charger on the batteries overnight with no change in results.

I guess my next step is to take the starter off and have it tested but.

going to check and see if the engine turns over freely from the crank

open to any suggestions

Thanks

Bill
 

Tinkerer

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
9,376
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
Have the starter tested and see if the motor turns freely by hand. Key off of course.
Let us know what you find out.
Light weight hydraulic oil ?? All hydraulic valves in closed position so you aren't pumping oil into a circuit ?
 

RDC_580C

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2017
Messages
109
Location
VA
If you're having to jump it directly to the starter then it sounds like the cables/connectors are an issue.
 

Emerson

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2011
Messages
78
Location
NB, Canada
So my buddy brought over a batter tester and my batteries are toast. 2 1050CCA batteries ones putting out 400 and the other is dead. So there's 1 issue I'll fix tomorrow.
Also my truck only has a factory 650CCA battery so even on a good warm day that wouldn't be enough.

So tomorrow I'll be getting 2 new batteries terminals and an isolation switch. Hopefully they'll last for a couple more years. I'll be checking all my cables, they were replaced a couple years ago with 0AWG so I have a feeling they are fine might need to be cleaned abit.

I'll let you know if that does the trick. Next step will be to pull the starter and get it tested.

Thanks
 

Tinkerer

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
9,376
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
Good Grief !!
2 new battery's and they are toast ? Maybe pull the alternator and have it checked to. That drain on them (battery's) with the key off may be part of the problem. I wouldn't bother with an isolation switch. I guess I'm a perfectionist in a way. I wouldn't rest until I found and repaired the cause of the slow drain situation.
 

Delmer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,891
Location
WI
Good Grief !!
2 new battery's and they are toast ? Maybe pull the alternator and have it checked to. That drain on them (battery's) with the key off may be part of the problem. I wouldn't bother with an isolation switch. I guess I'm a perfectionist in a way. I wouldn't rest until I found and repaired the cause of the slow drain situation.

Draining the batteries will do that over "the last couple years". One 750CCA battery should start that thing for years, and after 2-5 years it will still start it if you bring it in at night on the really cold days. The high amp batteries are weak and short lived, plates are thinner to get the higher amps.

You can easily test the voltage drop on the cables while cranking if you think they're good. The alternator is easy enough to check too, if it puts out 14V running, and doesn't drain the batteries then it's good. You need to double check the battery by leaving it sit disconnected to see if it holds a charge.
 

thepumpguysc

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Messages
7,542
Location
Sunny South Carolina
Occupation
Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
& there are a couple of utube videos on how to check for a parasitic draw when the engine is shut down.
It entails a multimeter & that's about it.. IF you find "something" lighting up the meter, all you do is pull fuses till it goes away & THAT circuit is the culprit..
Hope this helps some.
 

Bertrrr

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2016
Messages
72
Location
South Louisiana
Occupation
mechanic
Pull a cable off one of the posts , hook up a test light between the cable end and battery post if the light comes on , you got a draw, if no switch is on like a light switch or etc, it most likely the alternator pulling it down.
 

Emerson

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2011
Messages
78
Location
NB, Canada
SO little update. 2 new batteries new terminals and a disconnect switch and she's alive.
I ended up cracking the injectors because it sounded like it had air the system, I had a frozen fuel line off the tank a few weeks ago and had to prime it to get back up. I noticed I didn't tighten a Nut up could of been sucking air.. My fault, I've done worse.

This has brought to my attention the work the old girl needs......... I will need help...
 
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