Case 580k stopping running 2 hours after fuel filter change

[Abseim]

maybe if I cut my 15/16 in half and shaved it down I could make it work. So i

This is why I like to pick up pails of old wrenches at garage sales for cheap. Then you can cut and bend and weld them up however you need and you don't have to feel bad about it!

You didn't waste anyone's time, I'm sure someone will come across this in the future and use this as part of their troubleshooting.

 

[alrman]

Ron, you didn't mention that you had the ignition ON while priming the injector pump?
Without doing that, the fuel system won't prime.
Did you turn off the fuel during filter change & remember to turn it on?
Did you replace the in-line filter as well? Maybe it's now blocked? Restricting fuel delivery.

 

[rdavison39]

Hi Arlman - I did not have the ignition on while I was bleeding the lines from the pump. But obviously it was on when I cracked the injector nuts at the valves because I was cranking the engine trying to get the fuel to come out. I assume that the solenoid in the injector pump shuts the flow of fuel off when the key is no on ? And I did not turn off the fuel when I changed the filter but i will next time. I did replace the inline filter about 30 hours ago so I didn't feel I needed to replace it again - the only reason I replaced this filter was because it was leaking - but turned out actually to just to be the nut attached to the filter holder.

 

[Durango Tom]

Ron: Your experience is almost identical to mine. Only difference is that after the most recent restart, mine ran for an hour or more plowing snow. Then when I throttled down to park in the barn, the engine stalled again and wouldn't restart. I'm beginning to think the fuel shut-off solenoid is the issue, not the fuel lines or the fuel itself. Thanks for your posts regarding this problem. Very helpful.

 

[thepumpguysc]

The solenoid on those pumps are questionable.. I’ve heard of people replacing them and all the “no-start” problems go away..
Me personally, I’ve never run into that problem & I’ve been doing this for over 35 years..
But if u do a search for CAV solenoid.. you’ll find 100’s of examples of people change the solenoid & problem solved..

 

[Durango Tom]

Thanks so much for your thoughts. You've got at least 34 years and 11 months of experience that I don't have. Your recommendations are exactly what I need. I'll search on CAV solenoid. Thanks again.

 

[Durango Tom]

I changed the solenoid, plowed snow for two days, then the backhoe died again. Shut down as if I had turned off the ignition switch. I gave it a day or so, then used the block heater and ether to assist with a cold temperature start. Engine fired up and has run perfectly since. Here's hoping you were right about changing the fuel shut-off solenoid. Thanks again for your guidance.

 

[Tinkerer]

If it died again like you just posted you may another issue with a defective power supply to the solenoid.
Could be the wire connections, the wire itself or the ignition switch.
Next time it dies, leave the ignition switch on and check the power supply terminal on the solenoid with a test light or volt meter.

 

[Durango Tom]

If it died again like you just posted you may another issue with a defective power supply to the solenoid.
Could be the wire connections, the wire itself or the ignition switch.
Next time it dies, leave the ignition switch on and check the power supply terminal on the solenoid with a test light or volt meter.

Thanks, Tinkerer, for this advice. I'll check as you recommend with a voltmeter. I intended to do this last time but the engine started and hasn't hesitated since. But it does need ether to start even after having the block heater plugged in overnight. This is a new development---in earlier days, it started on the first crank with no ether (morning temps are 5-10 degrees F below zero). This makes me wonder about the quantity or quality of fuel. Filters are all new, bulk tank has a new filter, fuel is 6 months old and not jelled. Any thoughts?

 

[thepumpguysc]

If your machine has a supply pump on it, THAT could be the problem.. if it’s faulty, it could allow the fuel to back bleed the fuel to the tank.. accounting for the long crank times..

 

[orangeman]

Just a thought - Was the ambient outdoor temperature from when you were using and running change to significantly colder temperature when you went to use it again? Water condensation within the fuel system can and does freeze at some point and can cause starting and ignition issues particularly for owners of heavy equipment that live in condensing and freezing environments. Also, contributing to this could be ohms resistance in the start circuit, primary electrical source to the solenoid, switch or any closed circuit switch that has to work properly if the machine has a forward - reverser type transmission. HTH's ~ Orangeman

 

[Durango Tom]

Many thanks, Thepumpguysc and Orangeman. Yes, Thepumpguysc, when you write "supply pump" I believe you are speaking of what some folks here call the "lift pump" or "slave pump". My 580 does have this pump. Come spring, I'll have a look at replacing it. And to Orangeman's note about cold air temps, the problem started in October when we had an abnormally warm autumn. Since then it has been abnormally cold. I'll keep your thought about ice in mind because this could/should be an easy fix. Thanks again to you both for your helpful suggestions.