Case 580k sideshift clamp cylinder removal

[jez456]

Hi there i have a 1992 case 580k backhoe loader. the backhoe is a sideshift type and one of the 4 clamping cylinders has got a bit of a cronic leak.....bit too much to live with now.

basically has anyone fixed this unit before? do i need to remove the backhoe from the machine or is there a bit of a cheats way to get it apart? i notice the little cylinder has a weld on it....it i grind that off would the cylinder pull back through?

any thoughts would be much appreciated

cheers

 

[alrman]

Welcome to HEF jez456!
There is no cheats way..... The hoe must be removed from the slide frame & the pistons need to be removed to be resealed & the cylinders stay in place unless they need to be replaced due to wear. The welds on the cylinders is just to stop them turning while side shifting. If they need to be removed, you will need to grind the welds & drive them out towards the front of the machine as there is a ring on the front of the cylinders to stop them going out rearwards.

Level ground is required & if you have something to attach to the hoe while it is off (another machine/forklift/crane/hoist) - even better for safety.

1) Fit the biggest bucket you have to help stabilize the hoe while it is off the frame.
2) Slide hoe to middle - remove the centre hose clamps to allow enough stretch of the hoses
3) disconnect the pressure feed hose to the side shift plumbing & plug the hose end.
4) stretch out the hoe to maximum reach to lower the centre of gravity
5) leave the stabilizers raised, as you will need to drive the tractor away from the hoe
6) undo the bolts at the lower rail from under the slide frame.
7) prepare some stands to support the out edges of the swing tower.
8) use a jack to support the swing tower a little. I usually remove the top plate to minimize movement.
9) drive the tractor forward - about 12-15 inches - collect the 4 x spacer plates.
10) the pistons have a 3/8"unc blind hole in them to assist removal. Sometimes they can be difficult to remove & I use a hydraulic hand pump to pressurize each piston to 'pop' them out.
11) goes without saying - do all 4 of them
12) the cylinders usually need a hone to clean them up - hence the 12-15 inch gap for the drill

Reverse for install

**TIPS- There should be a chamfer/bevel at the front of the cylinder to assist seal fitment. This sometimes disappears due to wear from the plates. You will need to make a new bevel with a die grinder & stone to allow the piston to be fitted without damaging the seal.
Use lots of lube - vasolene/petroleum jelly is my lube of choice.

Use some grease to hold the spacer wear plates in place during assembly

 

[jez456]

Hi alrman, thanks for the quick and detailed response, much appreciated just need to find the time to do the job now! Just a quick question, 'remove the centre hose clamps to allow enough stretch of the hoses' are you talking about just the ones in the swing tower here or the clamps under the cab too right up to the spool block?
also plugging the pressure feed hose, is this to be blanked off as it will be under pressure when i start the machine up or can i just bung some tape over it and a pot to catch the drips?! if i have the locking valve leaver in the up position in the cab the system wont pressurise right....

cheers

 

[alrman]

I have carried out this repair many times..... but not for a while...... I'm pretty sure removing the centre clamps at the swing tower only, will give enough length to do the job. It always is a good idea to have a second set of eyes to be certain during the process.
It is best to plug the hose with a hydraulic fitting - not expensive to purchase from a hydraulic supply shop or a hose repair service. You can make one out of an old fitting if available - just weld up the hole in the centre.
There will likely still be a little flow of oil with the valve in release position - you may sacrifice the oil & work in the mess if you wish. I've never done it that way.

I usually do this job in about 1 - 1.5 hrs - you may take a little longer, but it sounds worse than it really is.
:drinkup

 

[jez456]

okey doke, thats great, i will have a crack at that when i get a bit of spare time.....think i might have to convert your hour and a half to a day and a half though

thanks again for the advice :notworthy

 

[Lindrick]

Thank you AirMan. Just what I was looking for. I have an old 580FS and could not find much practical info although I have the manual for it.
All of it makes sense.
Next problem is to make the brakes work. lol