Case 580k fuel issue

[alrman]

Are you sure the new shut off is 12v & not 24v?
Have you used a test light to ensure 12v is at the shut off when ign is on & while you are cranking the engine?

 

[thepumpguysc]

That’s kinda the lines I was going thru.. WHAT P# sol. did u get from BT.? They say 12 or 24 on them.
It’s also easy to tighten up the 1st nut to much & pull it out of the sol.
AND when u go to change it, it releases & makes contact/ works again..

 

[Steve111]

It's the J904630 shut off solenoid that I got from them. Exact same as the old one in there. Going to check voltage and everything tomorrow morning to that wire.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Sorry I thought it was a Stanadyne sol. w the 2 posts, held in w nuts & washers..
BE SURE to check the voltage WHILE CRANKING TOO..
I’ve seen them have voltage w the key ON & drop it while cranking.

 

[Steve111]

So I tested voltage to the solenoid has 12volts. Took of new one and bench tested it and of course the new one doesn't work. Bench tested the old one and it works fine. Put old one back in and it started right up. Go figure.

 

[Steve111]

And yes the new solenoid is exactly the same and says 12v on it. Tested both the exact same way. Figure brand new parts would actually work correctly.

 

[mitch504]

I have wasted hours laboring under that assumption.

Disgusting, ain't it?

 

[thepumpguysc]

Lol.. it only takes 1 or 2x for THAT to happen before u start testing “new part” before installing them...
We ALL learned THAT way.. lol

 

[Steve111]

But now it goes back to my original problem of me having to release the fuel pressure in the first bleeder valve again when I turn it off in order to start it. Ruled out the shutoff solenoid now. The second I open the bleeder and let the pressure out it starts right up but if I don't it has to sit for an hour until it will start up

 

[mitch504]

Well, you didn't rule out the solenoid, until you put a good one on.

 

[Steve111]

I bench tested it and it works perfectly fine. Strong pull in and releases fine too

 

[mitch504]

Well, ALRman is one of the most experienced Case guys on here, and you thought enough of his experience to spend $45 and change it. Now you are getting another one for free, I'd sure install it before I declared it not to be it.

 

[thepumpguysc]

WHAT inj pump is on this thing.?!!!
Bosch VE.. Delphi DPA..???

 

[jimg984]

sounds like the return line and fittings from injector pump to fuel tank is not opening to relieve pressure KISS KEEP IT SIMPLE SIMON

 

[Steve111]

I honestly think that is what it is the return lines. When it doesn't start and I crack the line open there is alot of pressure then it stops and then it will start right up. I wonder if it is going to be an injector pump issue or a clogged line.

 

[jimg984]

COULD BE LINE IS CLOGGED/ LINE PINCHED OR THE BANJO FITTING THAT CONNECTS LINE TO FUEL SYSTEM GOOD LUCK TRY WITH LINE LOOSE AT WHERE IT CONNECT TO FUEL SYSTEM NOT THE FUEL TANK,,,,,, BE CAREFUL WHEN TAKING THE BANJO FITTING OFF,, PROBABLY HAVE BALL AND SPRING IN IT

 

[thepumpguysc]

Exactly what I was thinking Steve but I gotta know what inj pump to help w pinpointing..

 

[Steve111]

Not totally sure. I want to say it's the Bosch? It's a 580k phase 1

 

[thepumpguysc]

Pull the return connection off the pump.. if it’s a Bosch VE then the banjo bolt is a restricted fitting..
blow it out w compressed air..
It’s possible that the return line goes back into the filter..
If it’s a Delphi DPA.. the connector that screws into the front flange of the pump has a check ball in it..
Lots of problems with them..
They stick & pressurize the pump housing & usually blow out the front seals..

 

[Steve111]

OK Thank you will look at it in the morning. Hopefully it's something relatively easy.