1991 580K Backhoe. When I first start up, everything works fine. After 5 or 10 minutes, the tractor ground speed starts to slow down. I discover very little pre travel on the brake pedal, so I know the brakes are dragging. If I stop and work the pedal up and down a few times, the pedal now travels a little farther down and and works fine again. Sometimes, I have to do this 2 or 3 times before if becomes normal. Won't do it again until tomorrow. Pedal distance from the floor is 7.25" and pretravel at brake cylinders is .18 like the book says........
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Case 580K backhoe BRAKES
- Thread starter reevesjo
- Start date
Deon
Senior Member
Don't know anyting about Case brakes. My JD has wet brakes pressured via hydo fluid.
If your brakes run with DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid, it could be contaminated
with water. Water will expand durring warmup and cause what you are describing.
Good luck.
If your brakes run with DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid, it could be contaminated
with water. Water will expand durring warmup and cause what you are describing.
Good luck.
alrman
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2009
- Messages
- 3,308
- Location
- QLD Australia
- Occupation
- Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
A few things to consider reevesjo -
Firstly welcome to the forum!
Assuming you have pre JJG 20000 machine -
The type of oil being used in the transaxle.
The type of fluid being used in the master cylinders - should be mineral oil, not dot 3.
As you have mentioned, the brake adjustment.
Brake pedal free travel - a little gap between push rod & master cylinder.
Brake pedal return springs, attatched & pedals returning freely.
Firstly welcome to the forum!
Assuming you have pre JJG 20000 machine -
The type of oil being used in the transaxle.
The type of fluid being used in the master cylinders - should be mineral oil, not dot 3.
As you have mentioned, the brake adjustment.
Brake pedal free travel - a little gap between push rod & master cylinder.
Brake pedal return springs, attatched & pedals returning freely.
oceanobob
Senior Member
On a 580K that I happen to know quite a bit about, there are three springs that return the brake - usually, I take these apart once a year to look (coincides with changing the 5 galls of oil in the transaxle) because one or more of the springs are broken....
I'm having the same problem on my 580K. Mine is worse when driving in high gear down the highway. I've backed off the brake adjustment some but it didn't help for long. Did you figure out your problem yet?
CaseCI
Member
I have dismounted transaxles. About 2 hours having not much info. Owner before filled brake reservoir with dot3...because of the blue cap legend(hate CASE for that). Ruined piston o-rings...luck after all. About 50$ the set of o-rings.
¿Best sealant for the transaxle? Somebody told me about loctite 60:idea.
Hope you have fixed your machine.
¿Best sealant for the transaxle? Somebody told me about loctite 60:idea.
Hope you have fixed your machine.
CaseCI
Member
Hi reevesjo,
last weekend we finished mounting back transaxle with new o-rings. After filling and bleeding brake system, right brake gets more and more pressure so wheel finally blocks. Dismounted master cylinders reveals one seal ruined. It is a very small one that equalizes pressure between the two cylinders. In this case, the left cylinder was filling the right one until the right pedal was totally up presurized...and the wheel blocked..
Hope it helps in your "case".
last weekend we finished mounting back transaxle with new o-rings. After filling and bleeding brake system, right brake gets more and more pressure so wheel finally blocks. Dismounted master cylinders reveals one seal ruined. It is a very small one that equalizes pressure between the two cylinders. In this case, the left cylinder was filling the right one until the right pedal was totally up presurized...and the wheel blocked..
Hope it helps in your "case".
CaseCI:
Thanks for the clue. Every little bit helps. I had hernia surgery, so I will not be doing any heavy lifting for a little longer. I don't use this backhoe very often, so I may not get to it before Spring. But, it is still on my work list. Keep the information coming if you find out any thing else.
Joe
Thanks for the clue. Every little bit helps. I had hernia surgery, so I will not be doing any heavy lifting for a little longer. I don't use this backhoe very often, so I may not get to it before Spring. But, it is still on my work list. Keep the information coming if you find out any thing else.
Joe
Asking a question in an old thread.
580K phase 3, I have the service manual and it shows fittings you bleed the brakes with. Do you access these by lifting a floor panel up? I crawled under the hoe yesterday and thought there has be another access point??? I just replaced both master cylinders (leaking) is why I'm asking.
580K phase 3, I have the service manual and it shows fittings you bleed the brakes with. Do you access these by lifting a floor panel up? I crawled under the hoe yesterday and thought there has be another access point??? I just replaced both master cylinders (leaking) is why I'm asking.
caver,
I never could find the bleed valves. I recently started loosing brake fluid. I finally had to remove the seat and the big plate under the seat. One of the flexible brake lines was leaking. Since it was quite a job to get to this flex line, I replaced both of them (about $60 apiece if I remember correctly). I bled the lines at that time by just loosening the fittings on these two flex lines. The Case book says there is a bleed valve for each side, but I must be blind, because I have yet to find them. Sorry I can't be of more help. It would be a pain in the behind to remove the seat and the big plate just to bleed. Joe
I never could find the bleed valves. I recently started loosing brake fluid. I finally had to remove the seat and the big plate under the seat. One of the flexible brake lines was leaking. Since it was quite a job to get to this flex line, I replaced both of them (about $60 apiece if I remember correctly). I bled the lines at that time by just loosening the fittings on these two flex lines. The Case book says there is a bleed valve for each side, but I must be blind, because I have yet to find them. Sorry I can't be of more help. It would be a pain in the behind to remove the seat and the big plate just to bleed. Joe
Caver,
The 2 bleeding fittings are on top of the transaxle as shown in the service manual. Mine had black caps on them, similar to what you find on automotive fittings which may camouflage the fittings if you have dust/dirt on them.
They are basically under the seat, so while you access by removing the rear floor plate in the cab, you basically have to lay on your stomach and work under “toward the front” of the vehicle. You will not see them simply by looking straight down through the rear floor plate. This is why I removed the seat, in order to gain easier access. It is probably technically possible to reach the fittings without removing the seat, but I was not flexible or small enough to easily reach down-under with the seat there. I also seem to recall using a ratcheting box wrench on one fitting and an open end wrench on the other, but there was not a lot of room to swing the wrench on the fittings.
Depending how much crud you have to clean out under the floor mat and floor plate screw heads, it took me a good hour to bleed the brakes including dealing with seat removal. As with most brake bleeding, you will want to have a second person to push on the pedals as you work the bleeding fittings.
The 2 bleeding fittings are on top of the transaxle as shown in the service manual. Mine had black caps on them, similar to what you find on automotive fittings which may camouflage the fittings if you have dust/dirt on them.
They are basically under the seat, so while you access by removing the rear floor plate in the cab, you basically have to lay on your stomach and work under “toward the front” of the vehicle. You will not see them simply by looking straight down through the rear floor plate. This is why I removed the seat, in order to gain easier access. It is probably technically possible to reach the fittings without removing the seat, but I was not flexible or small enough to easily reach down-under with the seat there. I also seem to recall using a ratcheting box wrench on one fitting and an open end wrench on the other, but there was not a lot of room to swing the wrench on the fittings.
Depending how much crud you have to clean out under the floor mat and floor plate screw heads, it took me a good hour to bleed the brakes including dealing with seat removal. As with most brake bleeding, you will want to have a second person to push on the pedals as you work the bleeding fittings.
fpgm04
"lay on your stomach"
I know what this means. I had knee replacement surgery a few months ago and the surgeon I could do most any thing except "kneel" on that knee. I used to do a lot of jobs on my knees, so this has been a pain in the a$$. So, when I was replacing the flex brake lines under the seat plate, it was on my belly. I was facing the rear so did not do a lot of looking forward. Thanks for the tip. I will look more closely next time I need to bleed the lines. I have the service manual, but did not or could not recognize exactly where the bleed fittings were located. Joe
"lay on your stomach"
I know what this means. I had knee replacement surgery a few months ago and the surgeon I could do most any thing except "kneel" on that knee. I used to do a lot of jobs on my knees, so this has been a pain in the a$$. So, when I was replacing the flex brake lines under the seat plate, it was on my belly. I was facing the rear so did not do a lot of looking forward. Thanks for the tip. I will look more closely next time I need to bleed the lines. I have the service manual, but did not or could not recognize exactly where the bleed fittings were located. Joe
Thank you all for the replies, very helpful!!!! Yes my brakes take Hytran Ultra and I suspect maybe the previous owner topped it off with brake fluid as the master cylinders started leaking into the cab a few months after I bought it. The hoe is about 120 miles away at my acreage so I do some work to it on the weekends and run back home.