Case 580C (Extendahoe) restoration

[GWS]

I've never owned a backhoe before but have wanted one for a lot of years. Found one that was destined for salvage. The engine runs and it drives but I have not been able to test the drive train yet. All of the hydraulics work but several of the cylinders are leaking badly. A lot of stuck parts and linkages. In short, it's a mess, but I am happy to have it and with lots of help from this forum I hope to get it back to working order again.

Here is my first question:

(Do I really need the clutch cut out circuit as it is designed?)

I'm confused on how the clutch cut out switch in the dash that works off the right brake pedal, the switch in the floor and the toggle switch on the dash that says "drive" work together. I've read the service manual several times but am not understanding the need for the system. I can wire it all up with new wiring and switches but I just don't understand why it is needed.

 

[Tinkerer]

The best example of it's use is when you would be loading a truck. If the hoist isn't high enough when you are approaching the truck with a bucket full of material you step on the brake pedal and the clutch cutout switch puts the drive line in neutral long enough to finish raising the hoist to clear the side of the truck box. I never had a need to use one much.

 

[GWS]

The best example of it's use is when you would be loading a truck. If the hoist isn't high enough when you are approaching the truck with a bucket full of material you step on the brake pedal and the clutch cutout switch puts the drive line in neutral long enough to finish raising the hoist to clear the side of the truck box. I never had a need to use one much.

Thanks, that helps understand when it might be needed. I will go ahead and put the circuit back in. For normal use like moving dirt around from one place to another, does the toggle switch on the dash need to be in the "drive" or "neutral" position or does it matter? I hope these questions aren't sounding too stupid but I want to learn how to use the machine the right way.

 

[packratc]

GWS, I am barely a junior member and have found this site to be invaulable. My best advise to you is to wrap your wrenches in $100 bills and when the green rubs off the bill, re-wrap the wrench and put on another part or rebuild a piece. When you've gotten this down to a habit you don't even think about, your new toy will come together. Good Luck! Packratc

 

[Tinkerer]

For normal use like moving dirt around from one place to another, does the toggle switch on the dash need to be in the "drive" or "neutral" position or does it matter?

I would assume in the drive position. The switch in my tractor is marked {Clutch IN -OUT} You will know when you get it working. You cannot do any harm to anything by running it either way. Also if for no reason your tractor will not move either way when you put it in gear can be caused by that clutch switch malfunctioning.

 

[GWS]

GWS, I am barely a junior member and have found this site to be invaulable. My best advise to you is to wrap your wrenches in $100 bills and when the green rubs off the bill, re-wrap the wrench and put on another part or rebuild a piece. When you've gotten this down to a habit you don't even think about, your new toy will come together. Good Luck! Packratc

I'm starting to learn it's going to be expensive for the parts alone. I thought JDeer parts were over priced but Case has them beat. Latest estimate is around 5K for parts. Most of the hydraulic cylinders are pitted and leaking and pretty sure all of the bushings and pins need replacement. Just spend $500.00 on the brake parts/seals and getting them freed up. It will just be used around my place for the things I want to do like the 90 plus tree stumps I have to remove and some landscaping work. I've got to learn how to deal with the size and weight of the backhoe as it needs to be removed and completely rebuilt. Thinking of building a large steel A-frame to remove it.

 

[GWS]

I would assume in the drive position. The switch in my tractor is marked {Clutch IN -OUT} You will know when you get it working. You cannot do any harm to anything by running it either way. Also if for no reason your tractor will not move either way when you put it in gear can be caused by that clutch switch malfunctioning.

I was asking because there is a note in the service manual that says if it's in the "drive" position the clutch cut out is disabled. Not sure what that means as far as operating it or why they would need to put that note in there or why you would want to disable the circuit. I just want to make sure it will stop when I need it to stop.

 

[shopteacher 1]

It sound like "drive" would be used in normal operations. For instance, going down hill, you may just want to slow down, not disengage the transmission, which would actually make you speed up going down hill.

Anyway, welcome to the forum and ask as many questions as you like. I joined for the same reason- I bought a backhoe and had a lot of questions. These people are a great resource.

John

 

[GWS]

It sound like "drive" would be used in normal operations. For instance, going down hill, you may just want to slow down, not disengage the transmission, which would actually make you speed up going down hill.

Anyway, welcome to the forum and ask as many questions as you like. I joined for the same reason- I bought a backhoe and had a lot of questions. These people are a great resource.

John

Thanks, that makes sense to me. I have plenty of flat land I can play with it once it's up and running to see what the different effects the switch has on it. The order in which I am working the repair is:
Brakes (Done)
Dash and linkages (Started)
Engine (rebuild fuel injector)
Wiring
Drive train (depending on what it needs)
Backhoe (Hydraulics and pins/bushings)
Loader (Hoses and pins/bushings)

I am hoping to have this completed by the end of summer. I'll start posting photos as I go along in case I am missing some steps in the process. Hopefully you guys can point out some time savers or anything I may be missing as I go along.

 

[Bill Smith]

GWS The last 580 C I had . I don't think it had a cut out toggle on the dash for the shuttle/ transmission it was only on the floor rubber cover over it . If the switch seized in its pressed down state the shuttle/transmission will not ingage in either direction making you think you have a shuttle / transmission problem . It is a good accessory to have when loading trucks and making big stacks of snow or earth. You can unplug it right at the rear shuttle housing .Basicly as you load a truck you put the power to the hydraulics and not the wheels so your not slamming into the side of the truck . I don't Know how to explain it better . Forklifts have the same feature in the one of the 2 brake pedals

 

[GWS]

GWS The last 580 C I had . I don't think it had a cut out toggle on the dash for the shuttle/ transmission it was only on the floor rubber cover over it . If the switch seized in its pressed down state the shuttle/transmission will not ingage in either direction making you think you have a shuttle / transmission problem . It is a good accessory to have when loading trucks and making big stacks of snow or earth. You can unplug it right at the rear shuttle housing .Basicly as you load a truck you put the power to the hydraulics and not the wheels so your not slamming into the side of the truck . I don't Know how to explain it better . Forklifts have the same feature in the one of the 2 brake pedals

If I understand what you are saying correctly, I could leave the floor mounted switch out of the circuit since I don't see a situation where I will be using the loader in a commercial type use (loading a dump truck) and keep the brake mounted cut out switch. Seems there are a lot of comments around about the floor mounted switch failing pretty regularly anyway. I would think I would have my foot on the brake just about anytime I am getting close to something I didn't want to bump into. If I have this right, I would leave the dash switch in "Neutral" for normal use (loader and backhoe work) and put it in "drive" if I had to drive it down the road to some place. Is my thinking right or wrong on its use?

 

[Bill Smith]

GWS Im not sure about the dash switch but I would just leave it in the drive mode , as you operate the machine to dig you just put the forward and reverse lever in neutral .I have a 580 super e and the neutral button is on the loader handle .

 

[GWS]

GWS Im not sure about the dash switch but I would just leave it in the drive mode , as you operate the machine to dig you just put the forward and reverse lever in neutral .I have a 580 super e and the neutral button is on the loader handle .

Thanks Bill. I'll have to do a little trial and error to see how the two positions work. I was doing a lot of reading this weekend and I don't remember if it was in one of the manuals or on the internet but there was something about the switch positions and it said that if the dash switch is in "drive" and the throttle is wide open the brakes won't stop the tractor in the lower gears (I assume 1st or 2nd). I have an open field I can test this out once she's up and running again. Has anyone ever experienced this happening?

 

[waterman28]

I am an owner of a 580 c and when I purchased it the solenoid and switches were in-op. I spent a little time hooking up and adjusting the switches. When the dash switch is in drive position the brake switch won't activate the cut out solenoid so that you can maintain brake steering while back-blading. Also the switch on the floor helps when shifting transmission gears first to second, as it acts like a clutch. I would hook them all up to function properly.

 

[GWS]

I am an owner of a 580 c and when I purchased it the solenoid and switches were in-op. I spent a little time hooking up and adjusting the switches. When the dash switch is in drive position the brake switch won't activate the cut out solenoid so that you can maintain brake steering while back-blading. Also the switch on the floor helps when shifting transmission gears first to second, as it acts like a clutch. I would hook them all up to function properly.

Thanks for reminding me about the back blading. I should have remembered that as I have done it on my tractor a few times. I will put all the switches back in the circuit. I have been pondering how to set the brake and clutch switches on the brake pedals. Are they hard to get set up or is there a trick to adjusting them? I checked them with a voltmeter and they seem to be a little touchy at a certain point in the movement of the lever.

 

[waterman28]

I will look in the service Manuel tonight and see if there are specs to set the switch. I know you can access them through the covers in the top of the instrument cowling and by pulling the instrument cluster out. There are just bolts that you loosen to adjust the bracket that hold the switch.

 

[GWS]

I will look in the service Manuel tonight and see if there are specs to set the switch. I know you can access them through the covers in the top of the instrument cowling and by pulling the instrument cluster out. There are just bolts that you loosen to adjust the bracket that hold the switch.

Is it easier to set them with an ohm meter or by using the lights for the brakes? On the clutch cut out switch on the brake, do you want the brakes to catch a little before the clutch cuts out or before the brakes start grabbing? I did not get a chance to drive it at any speed before I started taking it apart and from what I have seen disassembling it, it wasn't working anyway.

 

[idigidaho]

I'm new here but have been lurking for years and finally signed up. I'll be watching your thread here for pointers along the way. I have a worn out 580c that needs some attention all over. Thanks!

 

[GWS]

I'm new here but have been lurking for years and finally signed up. I'll be watching your thread here for pointers along the way. I have a worn out 580c that needs some attention all over. Thanks!

Well, the first thing I came across while rebuilding the brakes is the right hand differential gear. There is a small seal inside the gear shaft(s) that unfortunately requires the drive gear to be removed and that in turn requires the axle housing to be removed or the axle shaft driven out of the axle housing. What the service manual does not tell you is if this can be done with the rear end in the tractor or if it has to be removed. There is a small cross beam that is right over the top of the rear end cover plate and it's welded in place. I'm not sure if the drive gear can be lifted out past that cross beam of the housing enough to get the differential gear to clear the drive gear to get it out so the seal can be pressed out and back in. So, for this year it didn't get changed. I wanted to but with so much other stuff to fix it will just have to wait till next year if it is leaking into the brakes.

 

[waterman28]

You can get the differential gear out of the case by removing the gear off the end of the axle shaft and pulling the axle out a couple of inches and rolling the large gear to the rear of the housing.