Case 580C brakes

[Kefrko]

Just a quick update. I got the new master cylinders installed and made the connections with my new lines. I’m not sure if the brackets that fit around the master cylinders were bent a little but it was a bear getting them back in place with the middle bracket and then to get the king bolts through. My buddy stopped over with his welder and after a few attempts we were able to get a nut welded on the face of the stripped screw that holds the brake backing plate on. Both screws were backed out and I removed the left side backing plate. I left the right side on for now because I think I remember reading that you shouldn’t take both sides off at the same time. I replaced O-ring and the oil seal and tried to put the backing plate back on. I got it to about 1/2” from fully seating but having a hard time getting it the rest of the way. I bought some new bolts to install when I put the brake housings back on but I also bought some shorter bolts of the same size and pitch to hopefully use to draw the backing plate in tight. Is that common for the backing plate to be a little difficult to get back in place? I tried wiggling the splined shaft while tapping the plate with a mallet to see if I could get everything lined up.

 

[stinky64]

Shot in the dark without being there, but you may find the distance of travel needed to seat the left carrier plate is the same distance from the o-ring to the inner face of the plate. Is your new o-ring the same size as old one? Was it lubed enough to squeeze into the hole? If you were heating and beating did you distort the opening. Was there any damage to new o-ring after failed install? Make sure the hole in the housing is deburred and free of obstruction. You can probably draw plate in with bolts, but it needs to go in straight without tearing the o-ring. If it won't go in with REASONABLE pressure stop and reassess, you don't want to crack anything by forcing. Just some stuff to look at.

 

[Kefrko]

Shot in the dark without being there, but you may find the distance of travel needed to seat the left carrier plate is the same distance from the o-ring to the inner face of the plate. Is your new o-ring the same size as old one? Was it lubed enough to squeeze into the hole? If you were heating and beating did you distort the opening. Was there any damage to new o-ring after failed install? Make sure the hole in the housing is deburred and free of obstruction. You can probably draw plate in with bolts, but it needs to go in straight without tearing the o-ring. If it won't go in with REASONABLE pressure stop and reassess, you don't want to crack anything by forcing. Just some stuff to look at.

That’s good advice. The oring came with the brake packs, band and seals so I’m assuming it’s the same size. It fits well and a little more snug than the old one coming off. I can pull the plate back off to get a better look and make sure the new seal didn’t get damaged while trying to get it in place.

 

[stinky64]

Didn't know it was already seated. If you think it drew in ok I wouldn't pull it off again,that's a crapshoot. You could just fill er up for a couple of days to check for leaks.

 

[Kefrko]

Didn't know it was already seated. If you think it drew in ok I wouldn't pull it off again,that's a crapshoot. You could just fill er up for a couple of days to check for leaks.

Not completely drawn in. I haven’t used the shorter bolts on it yet to suck it in. I was kind of waiting on another oil seal since I distorted the first one I tried to put on.

 

[stinky64]

Protect the new seal when installing by wrapping the side gear splines with packing tape or the like and lube the crap out of it. Don't tape more than you can remove after install. You can also prevent the little tension spring from coming out by applying a little grease to the seal lip. What about the large shims on the side cover, lined up correctly?

 

[Kefrko]

Had some time to work on the brakes today. I got the left side backing plate snuggled up and removed the right side plate. I replaced the oring but the seal still looked like it was in really good shape so I decided to leave it for now. It seems like the design of the backing plate is to keep the gear oil in by way of the oring and the shaft seal. But it also seems like there is a cavity in the backing plate with a weep hole to allow any oil that should get passed the axle seal to drain out the bottom without fouling the brake housing. I feel like I hadn’t read that anywhere before if that’s the case. I made sure I cleaned the weep holes and the channels out really well. I also have the small oil seal that goes between the axles on the right side but I decided to hold off on that one as well. After reinstalling the right side backing plate I drained any remaining gear oil from the transaxle and refilled with 5 fresh gallons. Lifted the rear wheels up and started the backhoe. I would say I ran it for about 10 minutes varying from forward to reverse a few times and didn’t see any signs of leaking so I think I’m good. So I installed both brake packs, housings and finished flaring the new brake lines. All I need to do now is fill the masters and bleed the brakes and hopefully it will stop as well as it did when it was first built.

 

[franklin2]

My 480c is the only brake system I have ever bled by myself, using one hand to push the pedal with the other operating the bleeder on the wheel cylinder. That is, with the floor out of it.

 

[Kefrko]

I wrapped up the brake project (I think). I had a really hard time getting the right brake master cylinder to start flowing fluid. Not sure if it should have been bench bled before installing. The left side seemed to bleed fine. I ended up removing the right side master and used the rod to press in as far I could and fluid started to finally flow out of the outlet. Not sure if those two bolts are hard for everyone to get realigned with that bracket that sits between the two master cylinders but mine was a bear to get back together. I’m not sure if have the self adjusters dialed in quite right. When I use the right wheel brake pedal the wheel stops nicely. When I use the brake pedal that pushes both pedals down I have good resistance but don’t feel like the machine stops as well. Is there a rule of thumb to getting the self adjusters initially set?