Case 580C Backhoe leaky valve?

[Kefrko]

Hey guys. Been playing with my “new to me” Case 580C. This is my first real experience with a backhoe/loader of this size. I was using it today and began digging a small-medium stump up and noticed that it doesn’t seem like it has as much power as I would expect. Also when the bucket starts to struggle I notice some
Of the other hydraulics seem to move slowly on their own. Would that be the control valve leaking internally? I was doing some reading online and on the forums and it seems like that could have something to do with it. I also read that to remove that control valve you need to remove the whole backhoe? That seems like a lot of work. One guy mentioned managing to get it off without removing the backhoe. any info would be helpful. Thanks

 

[thepumpguysc]

I took the backhoe controls off as an assembly BUT u MUST MARK the hoses..
The problem my friend had was when u pulled or pushed a lever, the out riggers would move.. the levers were frozen to the shafts..

 

[580bob]

your load check valve orings are gone only buy them from case you can change them with the valve in place not too hard to do

 

[Kefrko]

your load check valve orings are gone only buy them from case you can change them with the valve in place not too hard to do

Thanks for the reply’s. So the orings you are referring to would be in the section that I circled in yellow? Is there anything else that might be good to replace while I’m in there? I’ll do some more searching to see if anyone has a video or good write up on the disassembly and replacement of those orings.

 

[stinky64]

I also removed entire valve assembly, but had to fix a leak between sections. Don't know how much time or cash you want to spend but consider the fact that that machine is close to 50 years old and if one o-ring is bad chances are there's more than one. I had several that were missing all together. Also got all my o-rings from Case, they're a little pricey but ya know they're correct, don't want to pull that heavy mother twice. Don't need to pull hoe to do the job. If you pull entire valve assy. put a board or something underneath to prevent damage when it lands. As the picture shows there's a lot of parts and springs in there, be carful when taking apart, little parts + spring loaded = lots of profanity when looking for said parts.

 

[580bob]

those are the orings you need to change you remove the secondary relief valves then fish the load checks out i would change the outer o rings on the secondaries as well to remove the valve is alot of extra work and could cause other problems

 

[Kefrko]

Thanks guys. I will stop over to the case dealer after the holiday and grab some orings. Any special tools needed for this?

 

[thepumpguysc]

Talking about looking for parts or dropping things..
I went to Tractor Supply one day to pick up some Case paint and saw some “stall mats”..
They’re 3/4 to 1” thick and thought that would be comfy to stand on instead of my concrete floor in the shop..
Well not only is it very comfortable to stand on, but it also acts as a “dead zone”..!!
Whatever I drop stays where it lands.!! NO BOUNCE.!!
I ever have one in front of my wire wheel.. if the wheel grabs something and fires it down, it STAYS RIGHT THERE.!!
It’s the best thing since sliced bread..

 

[Tinkerer]

Thanks guys. I will stop over to the case dealer after the holiday and grab some orings. Any special tools needed for this?

After you see the CNH prices consider Grainger or other sources of "O" rings.

 

[alrman]

Any special tools needed for this?

Yes, you need to fabricate a tool to pull the load check

 

[Kefrko]

After you see the CNH prices consider Grainger or other sources of "O" rings.

Normally I would look aftermarket but it seemed like the one consistent message I saw across most threads I read was to only use Case orings. Have people had success with other brands?

 

[Kefrko]

Yes, you need to fabricate a tool to pull the load check

View attachment 313286View attachment 313287

Are you able to elaborate on this? I see what they did here but having a hard time imagining how it’s used or the purpose of grinding the two flats on the head unless it’s more obvious once it’s opened up. Thanks

 

[Tinkerer]

The last time I bought an OEM "O"ring from CNH (Case) it cost me $12.00 for just one of them.
That is tolerable if I only needed one but not so much tho if I needed to do an entire control valve.
An "O"ring from other sources is ok to use depending on what it is made from. IMHO of course.

 

[stinky64]

Are you able to elaborate on this? I see what they did here but having a hard time imagining how it’s used or the purpose of grinding the two flats on the head unless it’s more obvious once it’s opened up. Thanks

Do you have the service manual? Refer to section 4107-4 for dimensions and 4107-17 for picture of application.

 

[Kefrko]

The last time I bought an OEM "O"ring from CNH (Case) it cost me $12.00 for just one of them.
That is tolerable if I only needed one but not so much tho if I needed to do an entire control valve.
An "O"ring from other sources is ok to use depending on what it is made from. IMHO of course.

I was looking on Messicks website. I think I’ve gotten stuff from them before. Yeah 12.00 is a little crazy for one oring. I’ll look around and see what I can find. I just got all the part numbers from the manual.

 

[edgephoto]

I would buy o-rings from McMaster-Carr. There stuff is top quality, shipping is reasonable and the stuff arrives FAST!

I use them for bolts and other fasteners. The stuff is not the cheap crap you get at the local hardware chain.

I think you would want Viton for o-rings. You need to know the diameter of the material and the outside and inside dimension.

 

[56wrench]

Some applications require o-rings to be a specific durometer(hardness) as well as material( buna ‘n’ , viton, silicone, etc.) and temperature rating. Not all o-rings are created equal