Case 530 CK Diesel

[Burns-Tractors]

Hello all, I have a Case 530CK industrial Diesel with front end loader and the engine runs great but the tractor will not move? I bought this tractor with this problem so I don't know what it was doing when it quit. I drained out all of the fluid in the torque converter housing and there was a lot of water and gunk inside, I put in new fluid and it still will not move? I haven't torn into the torque converter yet, because it has a loader and some parts are welded I would rather not half to split the tractor unless I need to.
Does any one have any ideas?
Thanks for your time,
Coyote

 

[Burns-Tractors]

Pictures

 

[Phil]

Could be several reasons she won't move. Assuming your shuttle oil quality is now okay, I would test the shuttle pump pressure, either with a test gauge or get the dash gauge working. Most common cause is a plugged pump intake screen, or 'clutch' pedal adjustment. Best to do the pressure tests first, including the converter charge pressure. Can you get a service manual? Looks like you will need a new gearshift boot. Phil

 

[Burns-Tractors]

were would the intake screen be located? When the tractor is running I can push down the clutch and it feels like there is no oil? I will check the pressure and then check the screen.
Thanks for your time.
Coyote

 

[Phil]

It's a big job to access the screen at the bottom of the pump intake tube. I have taken an adapter plate off a 580CK before without removing the fuel tank, but had to have the tank off to assemble it. I'm not familiar with a 530 but the clutch pedal is probably connected to the left side spool in the valve body.

On a 580CK or B, depressing the clutch pedal moves a 'dump' valve which allows gear changes. One can see the pressure on the dash gauge drop as it's depressed. It's important to check the adjustment of the 'clutch' linkage for that reason, and to have a working dash gauge. Check the clutch pressure valve located between the 2 spools in the valve body to make sure it's free. There may be rust in the shuttle valves from water damage. Phil

 

[Burns-Tractors]

Thank you so much for all the help, you must have lots of experience with these tractors. I will start this weekend and I will see were I end up.
Thanks again,
Coyote Green

 

[Phil]

Forgot to mention, also check the converter charge valve, #3 in the picture, make sure it's free also. I have some pictures of the adaptor plate off, will post later, the sun is starting to come up.Phil

 

[Cariboo4x4]

Coyote, I have the exact same set-up. Make sure you have clean filters in filter housing in front of rad and filter housing to left of brake pedal. Cover has 4 9/16" bolts. Make sure you replace torque converter fluid with case tch hi-low fluid. 15-16 liters. There is a specific set of plugs to drain torque converter area. Two drain plugs and two small plugs inside torque tube. NOW to fix problem, in the hydraulic spool that your clutch pedal attaches to, Underneath the spool(s) there is a big nut. I think its 1" or bigger. Its a cap actually. Behind it is a plunger and spring, and a second plunger. The second plunger gets stuck from wear and year. Its easier to remove spool control valve, 4 9/16" bolts in control valve block and two bolts holding linkage down for spools. If you have not fix this problem yet and want more info on how to fix stuck plunger let me know. Its really easy to do. After years of use, this plunger can become stuck. As for the water and sludge that you drained out it may be beyond repair. If guts of spool valve are all corroded and rusted up it may be too late.

Corey

 

[Cariboo4x4]

Coyote, I have the exact same set-up. Make sure you have clean filters in filter housing in front of rad and filter housing to left of brake pedal. Cover has 4 9/16" bolts. Make sure you replace torque converter fluid with case tch hi-low fluid. 15-16 liters. There is a specific set of plugs to drain torque converter area. Two drain plugs and two small plugs inside torque tube. NOW to fix problem, in the hydraulic spool that your clutch pedal attaches to, Underneath the spool(s) there is a big nut. I think its 1" or bigger. Its a cap actually. Behind it is a plunger and spring, and a second plunger. The second plunger gets stuck from wear and year. Its easier to remove spool control valve, 4 9/16" bolts in control valve block and two bolts holding linkage down for spools. If you have not fix this problem yet and want more info on how to fix stuck plunger let me know. Its really easy to do. After years of use, this plunger can become stuck. As for the water and sludge that you drained out it may be beyond repair. If guts of spool valve are all corroded and rusted up it may be too late.

Corey

Because you have 3 point hitch there will be 2nd filter to left of brake pedal.

For control spool valve there is two spools according to your pictures. You will need to remove T on side of control valve. Gaskets are still available. Before you remove spool valve contact me for more removal tips. Possibly 2 springs and indent balls in spool valve that you don't want to have fall out.

 

[Backcountryextreme]

Hey
I am having a similar problem. And have done similar things so far and am still scratching my head.
I've read a few posts that are making sense. Would be great to get clarity on them.
Let's start with the torque tube drain plugs. I have found the 9/16(1" wrench) plugs under the torque converter and gear box but the Allen head plugs are confusing. Are they inside the hole of the outer plug and how do I line them up if working alone.
Next I can get the syncro to line up in reverse but the front shaft doesn't turn enough to spin the forward gears into set.
Which leads me to the spool valve box on top of the torque tube. I read in one post that you can spin the rods 180 deg and use spare indent grooves? And possibly a stuck plunger under this box with a simpler remedy? Also mention are indent balls and springs hiding under spool valve box? Or are they inside on top of the rods? Haven't pulled it yet.
To add to this I have changed the filter and fluid that was able to drain.
Plugged screen is the next idea. Where is this located? Up in the filter casing or in the pump itself?