Case 480D dies burying goat

[hammerdwn20]

Ive been wondering what was going on with this machine. Glad to see your back on it

 

[stock]

Nice job Phil!

 

[tloft]

This is a great thread Phil .. your pictures and comments are are excellent & easy to understand for someone who has never had a big engine apart.

 

[Phil]

Thanks, I got it running a few days ago. Just enough snow over the hill to give it a good workout, to help break the piston rings in. Re-set the valves and fixed a leak or two after replacing the heater hoses. The operator's manual goes with it, but it's a little chewed up. Here she is. Phil

 

[TimHay]

She looks pretty good, Great job Phil
Tim

 

[willie59]

Looking sweet Phil!

Time to sell it and buy a new project machine. :yup

 

[stock]

Proper job Phil,did she have pallet forks on her at some time?

 

[Phil]

Thanks for the replies, yes it has the brackets for forks, and the long pin.

Has anyone ever replaced the shim, or guide plate that goes inside the extendahoe tube? She's missing something, as there is almost 1/2" up and down play and the dipper jumps inside the tube at the end of it's travel.

Someone said the plate was nylon, if so can one buy this material somewhere other than Case? Phil

 

[stock]

If you know of a good machine shop they should have some or go to a material supplier and you will definitely be successful there.

 

[Diggedirt]

Looking good Phil. Thanks for posting the progress.

 

[Tinkerer]

Great information Phil.The photos are worth a thousand words. Where did you find the licrometer ? I am need some way to check the liner height in my Case 301B when I rebuild it this summer. I did a Google search for Licrometer and didn't find one.

 

[hammerdwn20]

Phil,
That machine looks great. i hope you make a few bucks on her when your done.

 

[Phil]

The picture shows a Starrett licrometer, probably called by another name or perhaps discontinued. It's on my wish list to buy one but times are hard. Any industrial supply company will have a Starrett catalog. The Mitutoyo salesman showed me this unit, and with the clamp removed it would do the job but I would prefer a non-digital and like to see what Starrett offers first. Phil
http://www.mitutoyo.com/TerminalMerchandisingGroup.aspx?group=1115

 

[turbotech]

What style gear puller did you use to get the pressed on crank snout off? I put a two finger puller on the 580D crank and it won't budge. I need to make a puller that will use all 4 pulley holes and probably some heat too.

 

[Phil]

I've never have trouble getting one of these pulleys off, using 2 of the 4 pulley bolt holes. I can post a picture of the puller I use if needed. That funky nut that holds it on, comes off hard sometimes. About half the pulleys I've ever pulled off need a speedi sleeve repair. Phil

 

[turbotech]

That makes sense. I was trying to pull it with that nut still on it. I was thinking it came off all as one piece. I will make a tool to hold the outer piece using two bolt holes. Then a 1/2" drive ratchet to remove the nut. Which way is it threaded?

I knew something wasn't right trying to get the piece off with the puller. I was at the point of "if I tighten the puller more I am going to break something". It just didn't feel right so I stopped.

EDIT: looking at the parts diagram it clearly shows the retaining nut holds the hub on. I should have looked first.

 

[Phil]

I believe it is the normal right hand thread...without checking. I use a 1/2" drive bar with a short pipe on it. Make sure you use a guaranteed one(name brand). Might have to block the flywheel, after removing the starter, to keep it from turning. Make a note of the oil seal depth in the timing housing, before removing. There is a measurement for this. Phil

 

[mitch504]

I probably shouldn't post this. BE CAREFUL. To remove a crankshaft pulley bolt, You can, If you are CAREFUL, and if you have a clear space, put that good brand name 1/2" pull bar against the frame, (make SURE you put it against the correct side cause it can really do some damage if you don't), TURN OFF FUEL, GET EVERYBODY AWAY FROM FRONT OF MACHINE,and BUMP the key. This only works on right hand thread (which most are). BE CAREFUL.

 

[turbotech]

The pulley retainer came off surprisingly easy. I took a 3/16" thick piece of 3" plate about 1 foot long (scrap steel) and drilled two holes in it to bolt to the pulley. I then stuck a 3 foot bar on the end of it. With the bar wedged against the floor I put the 1/2" drive SK breaker bar on the retainer. 3 tugs later it was loose.

The front plate to back of the hub spacing was .605".

The crank is out. I need to make a puller for the tach drive so I can remove the cam. Once the tach drive is out, does the cam just slip out the front like a Chevy?

Once the cam is out I will make a piece of alum. to push or pull out the liners. Is there any known spots where I should check for block cracks? Between liners, etc.

Where did you order the speedy sleeve for the hub from? Did you put one on the rear of the crank also?

 

[turbotech]

I've been using a big piece of round aluminum bar stock and tapping them out from underneath. I've got to take the time to make a puller for this, good project to post.

I've also got to find a 7/8"x18 nut to make a puller for the tach drive. However I was able to remove it without damage, with a 7/8x14 NF nut, a pry bar and a little heat on the edge of the casting.

Was the tach drive thread 7/8-14 or 7/8-18? I have a JIC -10 cap that I think I can make into a tach drive puller. It is 7/8-14.