First winter with this new to me skid steer and I went to start it today to push a little snow. It was around 25 degrees out and I’ve had it start before in the mid 30s but never tried this cold. It cranked over for almost a minute and almost started. I then decided to plug it in but only about 10 minutes as impatience got to me and I attempted to start it again. This time it cranked but slower like the battery was wearing down so I stopped and hooked it up to the charger. This battery is only a few months old. After 20 or so minutes I tried to start it and nothing but a strong click from the starter. Like the starter drive is kicking out but it’s not turning the motor over. Is there a common issue or something I may be missing with these machines? Thank you
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Case 1840 was cranking over now just clicks
- Thread starter oachs83
- Start date
bad Tom
Well-Known Member
I would start looking at the battery cables. They can look good but melt the solder on the inside at the terminals. Another area is the connection at the starter where the cable connects. They can come loose or need cleaning.
If you cranked it for a full minute non stop, then anything is possible, battery, cables or starter. I'd check the voltage in the morning, then take the charger off, and check the voltage again at least an hour later to see if you still have 12.7 ish, or if it dropped below 11V indicating a shorted out cell in the battery.
Or, you could try a jump pack or jumper cables on the battery, if that doesn't work move them closer to the solenoid. Or you could rig up some test leads and check the voltage at the battery while trying to crank, then at the solenoid, then at the starter.
Or, you could try a jump pack or jumper cables on the battery, if that doesn't work move them closer to the solenoid. Or you could rig up some test leads and check the voltage at the battery while trying to crank, then at the solenoid, then at the starter.
Thank you, I went ahead and just ordered a starter that way I at least have it. I knew better to crank it for so long but it kept indicating it was going to start so this is on me. One thing I will say and the reason I replaced the battery because since I got it I always thought it cranked slow. I’ve never used a case prior but to me it seemed slow. I’d say one to maybe one and a half cranks a second. Even the old Hydromacs I use to run cranked quicker. As I was thinking last night perhaps the starter was getting weak and I just finally knocked it out.
I bought a project hobby farm and currently don’t have heat where the 1840 is so Sunday will hit 30 degrees and I’ll fiddle with it hopefully. Any tricks to removing this starter on machine that won’t start?
I bought a project hobby farm and currently don’t have heat where the 1840 is so Sunday will hit 30 degrees and I’ll fiddle with it hopefully. Any tricks to removing this starter on machine that won’t start?
bad Tom
Well-Known Member
Take the pin out of each boom cylinder and use a chain hoist or loader and raise the boom and lock it up, then slide the cab forward to get to the starter.
Update:
Shipping delay so my starter won’t be in til tomorrow but I took the time after work today to remove it. I have no other piece of equipment to lift the arms so I had to improvise on getting it out. I removed the seat and the left side panel where my heater switch is right next to the seat. Through there I was able to access the starter. Ratchet wrenches were my friend and it is not pleasant and mostly do everything by feel not sight. Eventually I got it out and bench tested it. The solenoid appears to be bad. Also when I tested it bypassing the solenoid the starter growls and just doesn’t sound great so my suspicions of it slowly cranking I think were correct and it was on its way out anyhow.
Shipping delay so my starter won’t be in til tomorrow but I took the time after work today to remove it. I have no other piece of equipment to lift the arms so I had to improvise on getting it out. I removed the seat and the left side panel where my heater switch is right next to the seat. Through there I was able to access the starter. Ratchet wrenches were my friend and it is not pleasant and mostly do everything by feel not sight. Eventually I got it out and bench tested it. The solenoid appears to be bad. Also when I tested it bypassing the solenoid the starter growls and just doesn’t sound great so my suspicions of it slowly cranking I think were correct and it was on its way out anyhow.
stefuel
Well-Known Member
I did mine without moving the cab. If you think it was hard getting out, wait until you try to get it in and get the bolts started. You'll get it after many 4 letter words.
I found a method that really helped installing it and maybe will help someone in the future. Anticipating putting it back in would be a challenge as you basically can only do it with one hand and the starter is quit heavy being in that akward position this is what I did.
First I put the starter through the hole next to where the seat is in far enough to connect the small phillips head signal wire to the solenoid on the starter. This is basically the only thing you can accomplish with both hands. Next I bought a 2 inch bolt that is the same threads as the mounting bolts and cut the head of the bolt off to turn it into a stud. Now take that stud and screw it into the top bell housing hole. This will now act as a temporary guide/hanger for the starter.
Now position the starter and slip the top hole over the stud you just installed which will now take all the weight of the starter and get you very close to the position you need. Still the the weight of the starter will have it tipping at an angle near the back of the starter. For this I took a bungee and hooked it to the stud of the starter where the battery cable hooks up and just pulled the bungee til the starter was now level and hooked the other end of the bungee to anything near by. This now made it a breeze as the bottom mounting bolt is much easier to get to. Tighten the bottom bolt snug so the starter can’t rotate at all. Remove the top stud and install the correct bolt and then hook up the remaining battery cable.
In my case when I installed the bottom bolt and snugged it the starter drew up slightly crooked. For that once the top bolt was threaded in and drawn up flush I just loosened the bottom bolt a turn and everything levels out as it should. Using this method it actually was not near as bad of an install as I first thought. Hope this helps someone.
stefuel
Well-Known Member
But the more important question is, is it running? I'm curious, how many hours showing in the clock?
I was never able to try a cold start when I bought mine. It was running when I arrived to look at it.
And running quite nicely I might add. Showing less then 1500 hours so I took a gamble. I didn't have my trailer but bought it, Got the bill of sale, spare tire, keys and the key to the pen it was locked up in.
Went back Saturday morning early to pick it up. It was only about 20 degrees out. My first thought as I was opening the gate was "here we go" expecting a no start. Put the key in and gave it a twist. I don't think it hit 3 cylinders before it was running with just a puff of black smoke. Ahhh, sweet. Mine looks to of had a starter recently but did have a brand new battery so it whipped over pretty briskly.
I was never able to try a cold start when I bought mine. It was running when I arrived to look at it.
And running quite nicely I might add. Showing less then 1500 hours so I took a gamble. I didn't have my trailer but bought it, Got the bill of sale, spare tire, keys and the key to the pen it was locked up in.
Went back Saturday morning early to pick it up. It was only about 20 degrees out. My first thought as I was opening the gate was "here we go" expecting a no start. Put the key in and gave it a twist. I don't think it hit 3 cylinders before it was running with just a puff of black smoke. Ahhh, sweet. Mine looks to of had a starter recently but did have a brand new battery so it whipped over pretty briskly.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
I used 2 lengths of all thread to install the rotary cylinder on my backhoe. Way easier than what the manual says and didn't need a special lifting bracket. I wish I would have thought about it when I took the rotary cylinder off. Threading nuts on the all thread pushed it into place so I could take I of the all threads out and get a mounting bolt started. There were also 2 dowels that had to line up.