Case 1150 Track Loader (will not move)

[979]

Hi everybody! Are there any CASE mechanics out there?

I have an 1150 track loader that will not move. Parked it there a few months ago now I do not see any pressure or any kind of attempt for movement forward or reverse. Hydraulics work fine, oil levels are fine. Could it be cold weather related? When I used it last I noticed that it did not like to push very heavy piles of dirt, just seemed a bit weak.

Where to start? This is my first time with a CASE and I am not familiar with how the drive line works. Does anyone have a manual for this 1150? SN 1502111

Thank you kindly!

 

[sheepfoot]

Start with the suction screen and clamps to the charge pump. After that you will need to check the orfice in the control valve under the battery tray, it has a fitting in the top center that is turned up, the line goes to the pressure gauge on the dash, remove the fitting in the valve, their is a orfice screen in the hole, remove and clean, retry. next in the center of that same valve where the linkages hook to, the big valve in the center is the modulation valve, their is a screw with a locknut above it, once removed their is a orfice in there, take a flat tipped screw driver and back it out, when out check the hole to see if it has trash in it, it's real small so it does not take much to plug it. Check the rod to the mod vavle for sticking while there also. You said the hyd works so we need to get some pressure to the gauge, suction tube,strainer, pump oring nuts, clamps, filter, control valve, orfice screen,orfice,mod valve,valve gaskets. Ps take a good look at the brake pedal linkage along with the mod linkage. Need to be carefull!, alot ofwork will be done with the floor boards out, seat assembly,battery box, it can take off with you if the right problem is found and you don't expect it.

 

[979]

Hello, many thanks for the advice. So here is the update... I pulled out the strainer that is just under the floor cover on the left side. It had almost half an inch of ice laying in the bottom of it plus a fair amount of small metal particles. Cleaned it up, tried the machine, no luck. Figured there might be a little water in the oil clogging up the suction inside the tank, put a heater under the oil tank for a few hours and tried again. Got torque converter pressure build up almost right away, it went to maximum on the gauge, then something blew up and lost all the oil. The leak looks like it is around the underside of the small pump.

1. What is the pump that is just to the lower left side of the drive shaft?
2. What oil can I use to replace this oil used for the torque converter?
3. Would anyone have a manual on a PDF, even of a similar CASE machine? I'm desperate on this one!!

Many thanks in advance

 

[sheepfoot]

979, The large pump is the main hyd pump, the lower pump is the trans charge pump, some converters have a converter releif/pressure regulator mounted in that area also. It may have cracked the pump or blown a hose/oring. I have seen ice take out a pump before and blow a hose/oring along with it. The trans can use a good trans/converter/hyd oil from a local source will do. Can you recheck the s/n on that machine or maybe a pic to help find you some info.

 

[979]

7301728 is the other SN on the machine, to the left side of the seat, front of the battery box. Having trouble to attach due to the size of the pics. Will try again later!! Thank you

 

[sheepfoot]

The machine s/n is the 7301728, Need to ask you one more question, the lift cylinders for your loader, is the rod end down or up when loader is raised. They should be down since you said the battery box is on the left behind the s/n tag. You are between the last group of 1150's built s/n 7300001 and after, then 1150B series came out. This will change what i told you in checking the control valve due to it haveing a differant trans in it. You will still have to remove the belly pan's under the machine between the rear engine and front of the trans. The fluided needs to be drained and strainer screen cleaned to try and remove water and milkshake oil in it, also will give you a better look at the possible leaking area. The control valve / trans will be more of the older terratrac than the 1150B. The trans pressure gauge should be 260-290 psi when warm.

 

[riland]

....
3. Would anyone have a manual on a PDF, even of a similar CASE machine? I'm desperate on this one!!

Many thanks in advance

I have service manual. Full model you loader 1150 B, C, D, E, G, H, K ????

 

[979]

Good morning Gentlemen.

 

[979]

Well the pictures worked this time.

Sheep, as you can see lift cylinders have rod end down. So my update today... Got the belly pan off and cleaned it out. I see the forward end drive shaft seal is leaking all the oil. So, to replace that may not be too bad of a job but would you have any idea why it would have gave up in the first place because it seemed to have some pressure behind it? Is that possible? Otherwise it is the oil change... would you be able to tell me where the strainers are that I need to clean?

Riland: The loader is the original 1150 model, as I learned from the above posting.

Again and again, thank you kindly guys

 

[Truck 505]

Your passenger side tracks are on backwards.

 

[979]

Your passenger side tracks are on backwards.

good eye! would it have been installed like that for any reason or would it be in my better interest to change it around?

 

[sheepfoot]

979, did you have any luck with your seal, suction screen check and fluid adding?.

 

[979]

All I did was move the machine a few feet. It seems like there was back pressure to blow the seal when it was very cold, if that is possible. So I will just replace it first along with new oil and try again when the weather is above freezing. Trying to locate part numbers is difficult so I will have to remove the seal first to try and match it up. However, I have to go away for over a month, will chime in here again when I get working on it. Really appreciate the assistance guys.

 

[979]

Hi guys, back again. Trying to remove the drive shaft today but it does not slide on the spline. Unless I am missing something or else it is seized up and maybe needs heat? I hope it is possible to get the drive shaft out and be able to replace that forward end seal that blew out.

 

[Shannon Mason]

Did you ever figure out how to get thedriveshaft off ,? Im stuck in the same place you were.

 

[DrHarryT]

I have a dozer with a 4 yard bucket on the front and a backhoe attachment on the back. It's a little confusing because the tag says D1150 [Not 1150D] but the S/N is 7300099 which would put it in the straight 1150 block [No letter after] of 1970 ???

Anyway, I would like to know what to fix on this thing. Symptoms... Ever since I got it, if you fire it up and try to go right away it will go but then it gives up after a minute and you have to let it warm up for 20 min [longer if daily avg temp is colder, such as 40degF] Recently it gotten a lot worse making it unusable. TC pressure is about 45psi and trans is about 250. You run it at high idle and when you see the shave between the engine and TC spin fast you know you are ready to try. When you put it in F or R the shaft slows but when it then starts spinning fast you can put it in H or L and try to get grip, it tries but then gives up and tries again. If you let it spin fast in neutral for a minute it tries better but eventually it gives up.

That a long story just to get to the point that the energy is not being delivered through the torque converter. The Trans itself is working perfect.
Is it a TC that is going out or better yet some screen or valve that is not working right? I heard about a TC pressure regulator that lead to the fluid cooler at the radiator. Could there be a problem with the regulator sticking? What kind of fluids does this take for the TC and Trans? I wouldn't know where to check the TC fluid? I do see a dipstick next to a pipe cap under the seat. Could it just be low on fluid?
I know this is an old thread, I'm just desperate to get this going, I am a senior retired mechanic on a fixed income living at 4,000 ft elevation and am snowed in and need it to plow the road so I can get out.
Any help would be much appreciated, a service manual would be a real lot of help too. [I saw some on line for hundreds of dollars and don't even know if they apply to my model,]

 

[Tinkerer]

Have you changed the transmission filter since the problem started ??
I don't know if this manual on eBay is any good. Usually when a service manual has about 1000 pages or more it is a complete replica of the original.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2935681660...JI29D+NY1TQjzol3Hx8YaQzHIZ|tkp:Bk9SR4yTycOhYQ

 

[DrHarryT]

No, I don't even know where it is. Through videos I've learned there is a canister screen under the seat on the left side. I was going to pull the seat and check that for sledge.
I was thinking, ever since I got it 5 years ago, if you fire it up, it will go but then stops and you have to wait 10-15 in the summer and 20-30 min in the winter. Yesterday I learned that if I shut it off for a minute, start it back up, it will try to go a little and then quit again, [Trans if fine, it's the TC not grabbing up.] I also heard that hose clamps can leak sucking air in, when combined with a plugged screen makes if suck more air and when it's colder the fluid does not want to pull the screen more. So, I'm thinking it's a combination of plugged screen with leaking hose clamps from time and shrinkage. Fluid doesn't want to come out of the leak point but air wants to suck in easier. This is under the premise that it is a suction line. That's why shutting it off gives time for the air bubbles to dissipate and then it works for a moment when you start it back up till enough air gets back into the fluid. Before the warming it up would cause the rubber to expand sealing the air suction leak???
Thanks for the link, that never p[opped up in all my searching for information.

 

[DrHarryT]

I'm still in the process of getting the canister top off, it is vertical positioned, the one I saw was mounter horizontal, maybe another year model. The amin thing presenting itself is I checked the dipstick without it running and the stick comes out dry. Usually if the engine is not running the trans level will read higher and least on an automobile, you must start the engine so the level drops and can then get an accurate reading.
Does the trans and TC share the same fluid like in a car?
What kind of fluid does it take? I saw someone in a video dumping "Tractor Hydraulic & Transmission fluid" into the trans.
It looks like a pipe cap next to the dipstick where it was added.
Still the trans pressure needle is flickering at 250psi and the TC pressure is just under 50psi. A couple of times I did see the pressures drop, TC to 12.5psi and Trans to 75psi but the Trans came back up all the sudden and the TC took a little while but came back up. When pressures are up the TC is not grabbing properly comes and goes. [mostly goes]
I believe I need to get the canister foo and see if it needs to be cleaned or if I can replace the element and then add fluid. I just want to be sure I am adding the right fluid.
Yes, when I add fluid, I will have the engine running and bring it to the full line.

 

[Shimmy1]

I think you need a new T/C.