Building a road grader in LEGO Technic

[mati0921]

Hello
I am new here, and i have a lot of LEGO Technic, and most of the time building construction equipment, and other vehicles.
Here are pics of most of the things i have built:
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?m=mati0921

Currently i am building a Caterpillar 140H motorgrader, but i have some problems with the way the blade lift cylinders are attached to the frame. Tp me it looks like there is some kind of mechanism that can raise the mount on one cylinder and lower the other, but how does it work? i cant seem to find any pictures.

I will show you some pics of the progress so far, when i get my camera back from repair.

(if this is misplaced, please move it).

 

[Walleyewatchers]

My boys thought that your creations were neet. They wanted to play with them. You must spend many hours on them. Good job.

 

[Randy Krieg]

Lift Cylinder Linkage

mati0921
Here's the only picture I have of our 160H where you can see the 7 Hole Linkbar.



The Linkage System is used for repositioning the cylinders and repositioning the anchor for the Center-shift Cylinder. As the linkage rotates, one cylinder mount goes up as the other goes down and the anchor for the center-shift cylinder moves sideways. This is done so the Drawbar, Circle and Moldboard (also known as the DCM) can be positioned beside the machine for grading slopes (also referred to as Back-slopes).



The 14H uses a very similar system, the difference being the pin puller is mounted in the linkbar on the 14 and it’s mounted to the frame on the 140/160. There are 5 repositioning holes on the 14 and 7 repositioning on the 140/160. This shot shows the linkage rotated right.



Used for positioning the DCM on the right side of the machine.



You can see the right mount is nearly 90 degrees from it's original position.



Hope this helps. Look forward to seeing the finished product.
Regards, Randy

 

[mati0921]

That helps a lot, but what moves the 7 hole link bar to the sides?
in my logic it cant be the circle sideshift cylinder, nor the lift cylinders.

 

[mati0921]

this is my progress so far:
View attachment 102571
i just used a rod instead af a cylinder at the circle sideshift to test the strenght of the blade.
when i get the time i will make some prototypes with the right linkage.
this is the max angle as it is now:


How tall should it be to the main beam? (where the "140H" is written)

 

[CM1995]

I moved this thread from Motor graders to the Model and Miniatures Forum.

Looks good. As a kid I would try and build all sorts of machines I would see out working, wish the technic stuff would have been around in the late 70's early '80's.

 

[mati0921]

Thanks, it is quite hard for a newbie to keep up with a forum of this size.

this project would have been a lot easyer if graders were more common here in Denmark, but there is only work for them at new road projects, and a loader with a good operator is cheaper than a grader. in my life i have only seen one or two here, so i cant just go and look at the real machine.

btw: is it possible to edit my posts?

 

[CM1995]

btw: is it possible to edit my posts?

You have a limited amount of time to edit your post, I think it's 30 min and then it's set in stone. A Moderator can edit posts at any time and with good reason we will edit users post at their request. PM me what you would like to edit and I'll take a look.

 

[mati0921]

I just missed a sentence in post 4, but nothing important.

 

[rare ss]

That helps a lot, but what moves the 7 hole link bar to the sides?
in my logic it cant be the circle sideshift cylinder, nor the lift cylinders.

in operation of the machine, once the main pin is released (with the blade grounded) the circle side shift cylinder as well as the x2 lift cylinders are used in combination to rotate the offset linkbar (thingo?) around to line up another hole.. kinda have to use the x3 functions at once with your tongue in the right spot to get it lined up (moreso if the machine is abit sloppy)

good job by the way.. looks great, I'm getting back into lego after 20 odd years (joys of having kids).. gotta say the new stuff is ALOT better than the stuff I used to play with as a kid

 

[mati0921]

Thanks, i will give it a go when i have built the base of the cab. i need that to get a bit more rigidity in the model.

It is a lot better but also a lot more expensive. total price of this project could get close to 900 dollars, but if i dont want it anymore i can just take it apart and build something else.

 

[Diecastmania]

Very nice work!

 

[mati0921]

Thanks
I hae not done any progress what so ever, because of school and the car i bought and restore at the moment:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/88562734@N07/
When school is done about 1 month, the car should also be done, and i will have a lot more time do work on this, and a model of a 6X6 russian tow truck i started on.