boom crack

[wrecd]

thanks for all the advice guys :drinkup

Just Curious, What is that tack welded along the bottom side of the boom?

it covers 2 hoses for the extendahoe, not sure if it does anything else. it looks like it used to have a bolt on guard. i never really noticed it till you pointed it out.

where in PA are you located? i know a few good guys in the Philly area

i live just north of Gettysburg. i think its takes a little over 2.5hrs to make the drive into Philly from here, but its been years since i drove there so i could be off.

Air arc out the crack,grind,weld.Pre heat not needed the air gouging will put enough heat into that to weld it up.Very fixable,been welding 25yrs trust me thats all you need.2hrs max. $150-$200 is about the price range.

thanks!

 

[wrecd]

hey guys

i finally found someone who was pretty highly recommended to weld up that crack.

he ground out most of the crack then said the weld might look a little sloppy but that is only because of the type of rod he used and that he was using a 110 generator, but the weld would be good and strong anyhow.

here are some pictures,



he charged $100. what do you guys think? should i call this guy for any future work?


:usa

 

[daman]

Keep eye on that elbow and where it turns into the vert weld and up i see pin holes not good,penetration don't look as good as i'd like.

did he V it out wide and deep? what rod 7018?

 

[wrecd]

Keep eye on that elbow and where it turns into the vert weld and up i see pin holes not good,penetration don't look as good as i'd like.

did he V it out wide and deep? what rod 7018?

he ground about 3/8" in and about 1" wide. more of a U shape than a V. i think he said 7013, but i could be wrong. he said it was a softer rod because a harder metal would just crack again under stress.

 

[Swamp rat]

ADMSWELDING- thats a said excuse for someone who can do a repair. Someone can have the best equipment available and not know what they are doing and screw up a simple job.

 

[daman]

I'm sure you'll be fine if he ground it out did multi-pass's and let it cool SLOW it should hold up,but i have to say my welds look better and i AM NOT a professional welder,just hands on over the years.

 

[John White]

I'm sure you'll be fine if he ground it out did multi-pass's and let it cool SLOW it should hold up,but i have to say my welds look better and i AM NOT a professional welder,just hands on over the years.

Same here. I know beauty is only skin deep, but you dont want to put a sack over her head to kiss her.

 

[daman]

Yea,,well hopefully some of the guy's that do this for a living or are certified will chime in...

 

[OneWelder]

If I am understanding you right , he used a 110 generator to power a small welder.
If this is the case he probably can not even light 7018.
so then he used 6013 , found out he could not weld vertical up at the corner, so then finished with some downbeads.
If this is what happened invest in some adult education classes for welding . you could
probably do as well, if not much better with little practice
No I would not hire him again- HE should PAY YOU for the experience

 

[daman]

If I am understanding you right , he used a 110 generator to power a small welder.

I noticed that too but wasn't sure if i read it right thinking no way WTF!

maybe gen welder?

 

[wrecd]

If I am understanding you right , he used a 110 generator to power a small welder.
If this is the case he probably can not even light 7018.
so then he used 6013 , found out he could not weld vertical up at the corner, so then finished with some downbeads.
If this is what happened invest in some adult education classes for welding . you could
probably do as well, if not much better with little practice
No I would not hire him again- HE should PAY YOU for the experience

that's a little disappointing, live and learn i guess. i was confident he would do a good job after talking to him. he has 20+ yrs experience and welds for a living.

he was using a Miller 903701 Maxstar 200 SD DC Tig and Stick Welder (i'm pretty sure) and a coleman 6hp generator 110v. i'm guessing it was around 40 amp 110v.

thanks for the input everyone, i'll just keep an eye on the weld and keep looking for a pro welder

:usa

 

[OneWelder]

My best advice is talk to small contractors in the area for recommendations- also Get somebody with air arc gouging capabilities as ADAMS Welding suggested .
If a welder can air arc it will have enough UMP to burn the rod in properly- some of these small ones do not. Just he bought a welder at the five and dime does not mean either he or the welder will do the job
There are guys who do good work on the side - but when one shows up with a baby welder, a good story, and few tools thrown in the back of a pickup - things probably are going down hill .

 

[groundloop]

110

 

[Phil]

Sure is a funny looking weld in places, where he went vertical, not enough heat maybe. Not even peened. The crack looks like it travels farther up than where he welded. I'd be ashamed of a weld like that an I'm only an amateur welder. Phil

 

[2stickbill]

I'll go to Wally Word and get some J.B.Weld.At least it will cover that weld up.

 

[adam21584]

If it does crack again you will regret putting jb weld on it. Leave it be, but pay close attention to it.

 

[OneWelder]

Phil, Damon - 6013 is just wrong for this job - Damon what you are calling pinholes are actually slag inclusions - you can not really vertical up with 6013, but you can vertical down - that is the result of not doing it correctly
if gravity gets ahead of the weld , the rod will run over the slag , leaving hole full of slag
MIG was a great replacement for 6013 and I still have few boxes left from the early seventy's, not a mover these days.
From memory - 6013 is ac,shallow penetrating,soft arc ,medium to heavy flux
excellent appearance welds overhead , welds flat, welds vertical down, but takes some experience- is easy to use flat and and overhead , stuff must be clean- requires fair fit up - considered a drag rod

 

[daman]

Phil, Damon - 6013 is just wrong for this job - Damon what you are calling pinholes are actually slag inclusions - you can not really vertical up with 6013, but you can vertical down - that is the result of not doing it correctly
if gravity gets ahead of the weld , the rod will run over the slag , leaving hole full of slag
MIG was a great replacement for 6013 and I still have few boxes left from the early seventy's, not a mover these days.
From memory - 6013 is ac,shallow penetrating,soft arc ,medium to heavy flux
excellent appearance welds overhead , welds flat, welds vertical down, but takes some experience- is easy to use flat and and overhead , stuff must be clean- requires fair fit up - considered a drag rod

I agree, if i was to repair that i would have used 220v mig, i've repaired many boom cracks with .035 ER70S-6 Vert down and there holding to this day, V it out wide, multi pass cool slow and your golden.

 

[sporklift]

Just read through the thread. I'm no professional, but I don't like the looks of that weld, because of the inclusions and the poor penetration. How thick is the wall of the boom?

Also interesting was the choice of welder. I also have a Maxstar 200, but haven't yet tried it on equipment repair. My other machine (Syncrowave 250) is the go-to.... provided I can get the equipment needing repair within 20 feet of the garage.... because I tend to do TIG only. I know, weird. But it comes out clean and lets me use any filler material I need to. No slag, no inclusions.

Am I the only weirdo doing TIG on heavy equipment? I suppose I could use the same machine to stick weld, I even have 50' leads for the electrode holder (compared to 25' for the water cooled TIG torch).

 

[Scrub Puller]

Yair...can't believe the kerfuffle over what is/was should have been a simple job...just grind the b*****d out and weld it with some multicraft or whatever it's not bloody rocket science...and that gorilla snot needs grinding out and rewelding.