backhoe bucket lifting eye position

[Delmer]

The longer the pipe, between the flanges, the more the shear load and lower the bending load.

That's assuming the gusset which we weren't smart enough to figure out. #12 is the way to go, but with a grab hook instead of a slip hook for me. But then I have hooks on the end of every loader bucket, none on a backhoe bucket.

 

[NH575E]

Mine just has a 3/8 chain hook welded in the rear center about a foot below the top of the bucket. Haven't tried to lift anything with it yet.

I guess some hoes are balanced better than others but mine won't lift anywhere near it's capacity before lifting the front wheels off the ground. I don't see any way I could damage the bucket or arms.

I have pinched some stumps with the bucket to move to a burn pile but I have to be extremely careful moving with any load on the hoe. I usually turn around and grab stuff with the loader end to move it around.

 

[Billrog]

I have 5 buckets all with hooks in the center. All I think are within 6" of the ears on the bucket and the ones on the clean-up and 24" bucket get used very regularly with no problems so far in over 30 years. Like mentioned when lifting you can gain distance by curling your bucket out when the hook is placed high and it's not effected when digging. Pic. is of the one on the clean-up bucket I made. Bought an old bucket for $50 cut the ears off to use had a machine shop roll the bottom to a card board pattern and used used grader blades for the side top edges 5/8" x 8" cutting edge. Lasted about 2 jobs before I ripped the ears 1/2 off back to the drawing board beefed it up and now dig stumps, boulders and what ever else comes along with no ill effects. I have a vary heavy 24" bucket I prefer to use in these circumstances but things don't always work as planed.

 

[Billrog]

OOPS for pics.

 

[Blueboy]

Bought an old bucket for $50 cut the ears off to use had a machine shop roll the bottom to a card board pattern and used used grader blades for the side top edges 5/8" x 8" cutting edge. Lasted about 2 jobs before I ripped the ears 1/2 off back to the drawing board beefed it up and now dig stumps, boulders and what ever else comes along with no ill effects. I have a vary heavy 24" bucket I prefer to use in these circumstances but things don't always work as planed.

Can you post a pic of this bad boy?

 

[Blueboy]

Billrog
I caught you in the middle and couldn't delete my last post.

 

[hetkind]

That's assuming the gusset which we weren't smart enough to figure out. #12 is the way to go, but with a grab hook instead of a slip hook for me. But then I have hooks on the end of every loader bucket, none on a backhoe bucket.

Not really, the gusset is only a cheap way of gaining bending stiffness since it is really only a "solid" truss. We can gain the same bending stiffness by using a piece of heavy (read expensive) heavy wall tubing around the pin.

I spent too much time on industrial lifting fixtures the last few weeks...

Howard

 

[Billrog]

Blueboy here's a couple more picks of the bucket & as it gets used 90% of the time would have over 4,000 hrs. on it.

 

[shaggy650]

 

[Willie B]

View attachment 154222

I'd bet more than brittle, that broken side cutter is under enormous tension. When it breaks V out the break from both sides. Then preheat to 800D F. not the break, but the area unbroken at 90D to the edge as though the crack extended farther. Expansion will further open the crack. Weld the crack maintaining the preheat temperature. Use a torch to keep it hot a while after welding. Taper the heat gradually.

Hot metal expands. If you fix the crack without preheating the bucket side, the new weld will be the only thing expanded. As it cools, it'll shrink giving immense tension on the side cutter.

I use high manganese grouser stock for this, and other cutting edge applications. An 8' loader bucket edge will break in a couple places as it cools. It's easier to weld it on in three parts, Middle first, then the two ends. Let the whole bucket cool, then preheat an extension of the joint before welding it.

Willie

 

[hetkind]

a foot of 1144 1/12 solid bar and a foot of 2"od 4130 onlinemetals is pretty handy! though your design is worth a proof test.

I looked at onlinemetals...1.5" W2 tool steel is about four times what I normally pay for W1 tool steel from McMaster-Carr.

While they have a nice selection, I can do far better with local suppliers.

Howard

 

[hetkind]

Nice job on the bucket...I got the bucket I was working on back in service yesterday with new teeth, welded closed rotatable shackle (like for truck safety chains) and repaired some worn and rusted wear strips on the bottom with 1/4" A36 3" wide strip.

Now I am going to start work in the 30" bucket, currently with 6 230 series teeth and shanks, with the teeth welded to the shanks, a terrible mess. I am going to remove the teeth, and use it for things like footers and banks where flat edge is desired.

I was thinking about using a combination of 1/4" mild steel and AR400 cutting edge. What thickness would be good for the cutting edge? My supplier has up to 1/2"

Howard

Blueboy here's a couple more picks of the bucket & as it gets used 90% of the time would have over 4,000 hrs. on it.View attachment 154219View attachment 154220View attachment 154221

 

[Willie B]

For a toothless big wide, (for your machine) I doubt you'll be prying on ledge. I'd use mild hot rolled 3/4" x 4" for the cutting edge. Edge it with a piece of high manganese grouser stock. With the bucket sitting flat right side up lay the grouser stock on the floor flat also. This gives a flat plane edge to "Rub your bevel" like a woodworker seeks to do.

For me digging a ditch or hole is quick. Properly refilling it, leveling it, raking it, and picking the rocks takes time. I often dig ditches. I have a number of trays made from 275 gallon oil tanks cut in half. A short chain is welded to each corner. Using an extend a hoe, I can put spoils in them, dig 10 feet at a time, install conduit, and sand, and picking up each tray, set it on the edge of the ditch. Unhooking two chains, I tip it into the ditch.

This keeps the mess as wide as the ditch. No scraping the grass to clean off the spoils. I can smooth out the ground ready for a hand rake before moving the tractor. The less driving the tractor around, the less damage to a lawn.

I can adjust the tractor stabilizers to place the cutting edge of the bucket on the ground level, but reaching over a spoils pile to refill a hole is better accomplished with a wrist, and a longer reach excavator. Us guys with smaller reach need a different way.

Willie

 

[hetkind]

Thanks for the advice...3/4" mild steel with grouser bar cutting edge. That seems to meet both the wear resistance and structural considerations.

The soils around here are usually waterlogged, with rocks, clay and roots, so dig hole, dewater, then install footings or utilities or such...

With the hoe mounted on track loader with 4 in 1, backfilling is fairly easy.

Howard

 

[Willie B]

Yeah, on a construction site, the front bucket fills that need well. Across a finished lawn, owners lose their composure when the mess is bigger than it has to be. To me, it is discouraging to spend a lot of time restoring lawn. The narrower I can make the disturbance, the better. I on the other hand object to Ditch Witch installations. There is no way to bed the conduit. rocks always fall into the ditch, and three foot depth to the top of the conduit is near impossible. Here, the ground freezes to a depth of up to 6', PVC stands freezing, but the wider the temperature swings, the more shrinkage affects the joints. Over a period of years, overlapping joints can pull apart. A foot deep temperature may range 80 degrees F. 3' deep it'll range 40degrees.

Bedding conduit, or drain pipe is essential. You've got to get sand or processed stone 6" under, and 6" over before dozing dirt into the ditch.

Willie

 

[Blueboy]

Here, the ground freezes to a depth of up to 6'

:OMG

That's some good info on your last two posts. Helps this newbe

 

[hetkind]

Most of my work is in deep woods, maintaining fire roads, clearing land for cabin sites, and general mountain property development work. Finished lawns are not common up here.

On the other hand, it has been fun the last couple of weeks, slowly rebuilding one bucket and starting on a second. I have certainly learned the ins and outs of teeth and shanks.

And my thanks to Willie B. up in Mt. Tabor, VT. I will be traveling up that way soon, to the NE Kingdom, where an old and dear friend of ours will be ordained and will start a position as a resident Pastor in the UCC after what seems to be a decade of seminary.

Howard

 

[Willie B]

Most of my work is in deep woods, maintaining fire roads, clearing land for cabin sites, and general mountain property development work. Finished lawns are not common up here.

On the other hand, it has been fun the last couple of weeks, slowly rebuilding one bucket and starting on a second. I have certainly learned the ins and outs of teeth and shanks.

And my thanks to Willie B. up in Mt. Tabor, VT. I will be traveling up that way soon, to the NE Kingdom, where an old and dear friend of ours will be ordained and will start a position as a resident Pastor in the UCC after what seems to be a decade of seminary.

Howard

Are you referring to Island Pond?

Willie

 

[hetkind]

Are you referring to Island Pond?

Willie

No, this will be in the Montpelier area, about 75 miles SW of Island Pond.

And I see Mt. Tabor is on US 7 just south of Rutland...used to spend my summers around Lake Fairlee and White River Junction.

Howard

 

[Willie B]

Montpelier is liberal territory, gun toting woodchucks like me aren't welcome.

Willie