Any ideas how to get this pin out?

[bdog1234]

We recently bought a 550J and were going through it in the shop and found three fittings that wouldn’t take grease. Two were on the ripper and we pulled them and cleaned them out and they are good with no galling. The third though is on the blade for the angle adjustment and it won’t take grease. We tried one of those rejuvenaters with the penetrating oil and hammer, heat, etc. The zerk isn’t plugged it is the pin. It is frozen inside of the heim joint. There is not much room to beat it out and we can’t get it to budge. Any ideas?

 

[Former Wrench]

Sometimes using a lot of heat followed by quickly slapping a wet rag with ice cubes or snow on the trouble maker will shock the offender loose.

 

[Bls repair]

When in doubt burn it out

 

[Delmer]

Where does the grease fitting go? If the bushing has rotated then the grease hole can get plugged, this usually shouldn't happen because there's usually a groove for the grease to go around the bushing to the hole, but it makes it that much easier to plug with dirt, dried grease, incompatible grease, etc. A sharpened carbide drill bit (masonry bit) will go through the bushing material if you have a straight shot at it. If you don't have a straight shot at it, then rinsing as best you can with brake cleaner, then hooking up a porta power hose to the threaded hole might work.

There's a few things I'd try before burning out the center, but that will loosen it up pretty effectively. Or even drill out the center and weld the hole up will do it, it's the heating and cooling that loosens it.

 

[Bls repair]

Photos?

 

[Canadian_digger]

Ok I'm going to try and explain. Hope it's not confusing. Weld a nut to the top of the pin. Screw some threaded rod into the nut. Then you will need a pipe lager than the pin diameter. Put the pipe over the pin and threaded rod. Then a flat piece of steel plate with a hole drilled in the middle. Place it on top with the threaded rod going through the hole. Then use a nut on top of the plate. It will act as a puller when you tighten the nut.

 

[Backcountrybackhoe]

Put some one in the cab and raise and lower. Those slowly when touching the ground or angle left to right slightly. You may have too much weight on that pin after grounding the blade to get it out

 

[Tenwheeler]

Plumb them up to your hand pump portapower first. That opens them up often times. A little heat does not hurt.

 

[Metalman 55]

This is a bucket pin that refused to move on my old 941 loader & I burned the center out as mentioned earlier on this thread & it came out right away. If nothing else works, this is the last resort that seems to do the trick.

 

[Jonas302]

Once you burn the center out they don't fight much longer Love the Broco cutting rod for them

 

[Nige]

I posted on a thread a long time ago about removing the same pin on (I think) a Cat D6. I happened to be passing through the dealer service shop while they were removing one and what they were using was some serious pulling gear, so I took a photo of it and posted on the thread.

 

[gary808]

If you have a Porta power and ram you can weld up a press frame over the pin and heat the boss and try pressing it out. We have a set with a 60 ton ram.
Most times it works. If it dosent burn out the center of the pin.

 

[Ferdinand]

I've had luck with either MIG welding the head a fine thread grade 8 bolt to the pin and then using a nut / collar to pull, it or if you can get to the other side, drilling through the pin and then running a bolt or GR8 threaded rod through it and pulling with a collar.

 

[Volvomad]

If you are pulling it out with threaded bar , a thrust washer under the nut , lots of gear oil on the thread, and a flogging spanner instead of a socket and 10 foot of pipe help alot .

 

[Ferdinand]

You can also increase the toughness of the pulling nut by stacking 2 or 3 on top of each other while threaded to a bolt and lining them all up. Then carefully weld the nuts together and regrind the flats if needed. That way you get more active thread engagement. Or you can make your own pulling nut if you have access to a machine shop, though that typically requires hardening / tempering after you cut there threads.

I've done both to make set ups for pulling / pressing stuff onto shafts in the field or where you cannot get to the back to support the right piece during a pressing operation.

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

Just reading through posts and found this one. Great Ideas Guys!

 

[epirbalex]

We recently bought a 550J and were going through it in the shop and found three fittings that wouldn’t take grease. Two were on the ripper and we pulled them and cleaned them out and they are good with no galling. The third though is on the blade for the angle adjustment and it won’t take grease. We tried one of those rejuvenaters with the penetrating oil and hammer, heat, etc. The zerk isn’t plugged it is the pin. It is frozen inside of the heim joint. There is not much room to beat it out and we can’t get it to budge. Any ideas?

We recently bought a 550J and were going through it in the shop and found three fittings that wouldn’t take grease. Two were on the ripper and we pulled them and cleaned them out and they are good with no galling. The third though is on the blade for the angle adjustment and it won’t take grease. We tried one of those rejuvenaters with the penetrating oil and hammer, heat, etc. The zerk isn’t plugged it is the pin. It is frozen inside of the heim joint. There is not much room to beat it out and we can’t get it to budge. Any ideas?

If you heat the ball and hit the pin its making the ball tighter because of the shape unless it has a large flat surface against the lug . If you want to disassemble it for reasons other than greasing the pin have you considered drilling a hole each in the lugs and fitting nipples in them to grease the moving parts , that's where the movement has been if I understand you correctly .