I guess if it were me, the first thing I would do before swapping hoses and even checking the pressures is, pull the seat and check each hydraulic drive motor's fluid level. If I recall, there should be about 1 pint of gear lube per motor (fluid type might be year dependent). This fluid is often overlooked. If the slow motor was darn near out of fluid, or it had somehow all leaked out, then that tells you a story right there. I would probably just drain then and put in new. Believe it or not, these little crankcases in the drive motors are often overlooked. Guy told me he'd changed all the fluids on mine religiously and when I checked the drive motor lube, one side was low (not dangerously) and it looked like they hadn't been changed in 15 yrs! Running the drive motors low on lube has brought more than a few owners to tears!
I believe there is valve on the valve body which can become damaged or somehow out of adjustment. Honestly, I apologize it's been so long since I've had to look at them and I really don't remember the proceedure or what else to tell you about the valves. But I believe they are in the control block. Do a search, you should be able to find something on them. Check the linkages to make sure a bushing isn't damaged and not moving as much. Swapping the hoses isn't a bad idea either.
Since it's new to you, if you don't mind me making a couple recommendations: If you haven't done so, consider inspecting or just plain changing the chain-case oil. The top covers are a common source of water leaks. It's not uncommon for some owners to report the ENTIRE case becoming filled with water! Obviously that would ruin the bearings. There's a drain plug down low under each side of the back of the skid loader. When you remove the fill covers on each side, take care on the seals. They are large rubber rings and sometimes crack. I carefully cleaned the area below mine and applied silicone sealer when I re-sealed them. The metal underneath can become pitted and not seal well (hence the silicone sealer).
When greasing the loader, don't forget to grease the hidden zerk on EACH axle (behind the tire). Just a few pumps, you don't want to load it up to the point where you push the seal into (towards) the chain case. These are often also overlooked and lead to seized wheelbearings. And also the zerk/s on the driveshaft/U-joint. These can fail if not greased and result in a busted driveshaft which leads to $$ collateral damage.
Check the radiator hoses, especially the lower rad hose, radiator (for leaks), belt integrity, and water pump bearing (tighess). If the lower radiator hose leaks, the radiator leaks, or the water pump bearings fail, you may not know it until the engine overheats. I check the cooling every time I use my skid loader, especially if you park on grass or gravel and can't see leaks. Also, the fan shrouds on these rigs can become warped, cracked, and/or the mounting tabs break off from years of vibration and people over-tightening the bolts. I would encourage a new 1845C owner to inspect the shroud carefully and make sure it's in good condition and securely mounted where it can't contact the fan. If it's cracked, its worth buying a new one. What can happen to an unsuspecting owner who isn't paying attention is the shroud can start flopping around and possibly get pulled into the fan. If that happens, it's going to take out the radiator, the fan, belts and who knows what else? In short, something simple like broken shroud tabs could end up costing thousands of $$ in damage before you could even get the engine shut down. A little prevention can go a long way there. Also, check the bottom of the radiator where the metal frame (radiator frame) is soldered to the bottom of the radiator. Look closely with a flashlight. Due to years of vibration the metal radiator frame can rust or vibrate 'free' of the radiator at the bottom. This is common. It should be soldered SECURELY to the bottom of the radiator. If you notice yours has started to come free, remove the radiator, invert, clean and degrease, and resolder with a propane torch. It's a simple job but could save you a lot of headaches and problems.
Something simple: Inspect the top sealing umbrella on the dipstick to ensure it is seated EXACTLY where it should go. These can and do become sloppy over time and the little umbrella-cap can become loose and ride up. Then, the dipstick protrudes too far into the engine and an owner can 'think' there's enough oil in the engine when there isn't, causing them to possibly run the engine low on oil. My dad ruined an engine because of this simple problem. When I went home and checked my 1845C, it had the same issue! I re-epoxied it in the right location. Fortunately my engine wasn't run low. But something to look at.
Of course you know that it uses 10W-30 for hydraulic oil ..and you need to add HTO (buy from Case) with oil. HTO is an anti-foaming agent. So the oil doesn't 'foam' which would lead to air in the system (air is compressible).
Good luck. Just pointing out some of the other not-so-often listed problems to inspect. Let us know how the hyd drive works out..
