955L Installing the Lift Cylinder seals inside the Head plate

[Bryant_955L]

I finally received my multiplier wrench so I could remove the nut from the lift cylinder shaft. Yah!
I was hoping someone on this forum had an easy way to install the seals inside the head cap. I remember reading a thread which briefly mentioned heating water and placing the seal in the hot water to make them pliable. I don't want to ruin the seals at this point and didn't know if there was enough elasticity in the seal (seems rigid) that you can bend it to fit inside the groves.

 

[Delmer]

Yes, drop it in hot water for a few minutes. Then either squish it into an oval and get one end started and work it around till you're stuck, and pry the stuck section into the middle to make room to continue.

Or bend a U shape into the seal and then install it.

Here's one random pic of the style of tool that helps.

http://www.autohaulersupply.com/cat...eXRI7w35l5-pZncGNcueSQUaLHV4QVWAxcBoCHF_w_wcB

 

[kshansen]

Yes, drop it in hot water for a few minutes. Then either squish it into an oval and get one end started and work it around till you're stuck, and pry the stuck section into the middle to make room to continue.

Or bend a U shape into the seal and then install it.

Here's one random pic of the style of tool that helps.

http://www.autohaulersupply.com/cat...eXRI7w35l5-pZncGNcueSQUaLHV4QVWAxcBoCHF_w_wcB

Those tools would be nice but those seals are pretty tough as long as you don't use sharp pointed object you should be good. The one thing that may give you trouble is getting that head back on the rod.

If your rod has a taper fit to the piston no problem but if it's a straight bore that will be tough with out the tooling. If you have access to a lathe or a friend that does you are good. Need something that has an inside diameter that is a close slip fit over the end of the ram. Then the outside diameter needs to be tapered. Large OD should be the same or a slight bit bigger than the rod diameter but still slip through the head with no seals installed. Then taper it down just enough to start through the wiper seal easy. Length should be about 3 inches and nice and smooth. Oil things up good and a quick shove and it should go right on.

If you are on real good terms with the local Cat Dealer they may let you borrow or rent the tool. Only takes a few seconds to put it on, could do it right in the parking lot of the dealer!

 

[Bryant_955L]

Thanks for the input. I am going to try the hot water trick and then I will need to find a shim that will aid in getting the seals over the shaft. Has anyone ever used Vaseline or some derivative when putting on the seals? Just cuirious

 

[DMiller]

Best lube will be the same stuff as in the system already with no chance for cross contaminating, any good grade hydraulic oil and a typical gun grease should also mix freely.

 

[Bryant_955L]

Okay and that makes sense. Once again this forum has come to my rescue sure appreciate it.

 

[kshansen]

Okay and that makes sense. Once again this forum has come to my rescue sure appreciate it.

Be sure to lube inside the head as well as the ram. That wiper seal will clean off the oil as you push it on. And getting the wiper stated may be the biggest part of the problem.

I'm probably too late with this idea but don't put the wiper in the head yet. Put everything else togeather and test fit the head with out the wiper. It should fit snug but easy. Remove head from ram. Then warm up the wiper in hot water and try to work it on the ram by itself. Should be much easier to do without the weight of the head fighting you. If the wiper goes on push it up a ways then push the head on the rod. Clean off any oil from wiper bore of head an OD of wiper and put a thin coat of Loc-tite on the OD of the wiper and very carefully tap the wiper into the head use something to protect rod, maybe a small block of hard wood and a plastic hammer to drive it home.

Putting the wiper on by itself also lets you have some access to the lip from the back side to gently poke with a dull object to encourage it to start on the rod.

 

[tctractors]

I always run a file around the rod end to save cutting the pressure seal, the fibre wear sleeve is closest to the nut so it goes into the cylinder first, its common to find piston heads fitted to the rods the wrong way, the fancy tooling in the box is nice to have on the shelf but I use an 1"1/2 drive flogging tool to sort the rod end nuts loose, you have done very well to cope with a nasty nut.
tctractors

 

[DMiller]

In the US we call them 'Rattle Guns' for impact tools.

 

[tctractors]

My flogging tool is an 1"1/2 square drive head mounted on a chunk of billet steel that is about 80lbs weight, you then strike the non socket end with a 14lb hammer for small nuts (Under 4") or whack it with a 28lb hammer for big nuts so It could be described as an impact tool, but this thing never fails its task and needs no wind just a bit of puff.
tctractors

 

[Bryant_955L]

I'm really an inexperience backyard mechanic but I saw this multiplier wrench on Amazon and I had to check it out. It is amazing to me using a planetary gear mechanism you can develope that much torque. In My first attempt to remove the nut from the shaft I used a 3/4" breaker bar with a 20' X 2" pipe. I stood on the end of the pipe and the drive snapped causing me to fall. I had a few laughs thinking there has to be a better way. When using the multiplier wrench I used a 4' pipe and really just leaned on the pipe and the nut broke loose. I haven't finish the job yet but I'm looking forward to this week with a little more time on my hands.

 

[DMiller]

Hi TC, we call those slugging wrenchs here, flogging just another term for beating with a sledge as is slugging. I still prefer the high pressure air tools to remove the more stubborn if they will come otherwise hot wrench or nut splitter.

Bryant, we used/use multipliers on the suspension of Mack trucks, torqued the U-bolts to 250# on the 4-1, accomplished 1000# final torque and set the U-bolts to the saddles on the old style Camel Back springs

 

[Bryant_955L]

I am trying to install the wiper seal but it seems to be a no go. It will go on the shaft upside down but I can't even get it started with the correct side up. Am I missing something?
. It seems tight the part number is CAT 167-2463. I am guessing this is the correct size etc. Forum what say yea???????

 

[Bryant_955L]

I have all the new seals in the head and the head fits snug on the shaft. The wiper seal is the last item that I need to install. I am trying to put the wiper seal on the shaft without attaching it to the head as was mention in an earlier post. Once I get the wiper seal and the head unit on the I will slide the wiper seal into the head with some wood and a tap of a hammer. I am hoping this will work as mentioned above.

Also the multiplier wrench will go to 2200 ft lbs. I think it is amazing.

 

[Nige]

Did you try softening the "rubber" part of the wiper seal by dumping the complete seal in boiling hot water then accompanied by loads of lubricant to fit over the rod..? The only thing you need to get the seal on the rod is to soften the lip. Once it cold and has shrunk driving the seal into the head assembly should be fairly simple.

 

[Bryant_955L]

I haven't tried boiling water yet. I did use a coffee pot the first time but the rubber wasn't malleable enough to get it to slide over the edge. I will try it again using boiling water. Thanks for your help Nige surely appreciate it.

 

[tctractors]

Put electrical tape on the treads just flush with the rod ramp edge then cover with grease, start at the rod ramp end going towards the nut keeping the tape thin, then with the chunk pushed on as far as poss' lift the rod up vertical and bump it on the floor the gland end should drop down neatly???
tctractors

 

[Bryant_955L]

Nige that was the trick. Heated the wiper seal in boiling water and it went right on. Thank you so much for the help. I was wonder if anyone knew what the required torque spec is on the lift and tilt cylinder head bolts? I am figuring at least 200 ft lbs but I am not sure?

 

[Bryant_955L]

I'm on to the next lift cylinder. I was able to get the rod out in about an hour. I was feeling good about the progress and then I hit the "Wiper Seal" road block. I can't believe how hard it is to get this seal over the lip of the rod. Anyway, more boiling water on its way.

 

[Nige]

Regarding the torque on the four head bolts, the manual says nothing other than "tighten them". I think they are 7/8" NC bolts in which case standard torque is 450+/-50ft.lbs.