955 puck problems

[fest777]

my name is anthony iam in so cal, southern los angeles area near port area got a 955 85j7794 lost my yard in gardena ca about 5 months ago property was sold for development got loader down in wilmington getting ready too go to job site in hi desert, second set of pucks in 17 years been sitting the last 15yrs alignments out iam sure, couple of questions if i can. where do you get shims ? any part numbers available ? also if the pucks are seperating at say between 6 and 10 o'clock looking from the bottom up where would i start , i know about the dial indicator just trying to get a heads up on a starting point thanks everyone anthony

 

[kshansen]

Was checking on SIS but so far no luck finding part numbers for shims. Might be just as easy to go through the alignment procedure and once you have an idea of how much shim you need just cut some out of steel sheet of some kind. I would make they the same size as the mounts to spread out the load so as to not have them wear too fast.

I'm attaching the instructions on using the dial indicator for you and anyone else who may need them:

 

[Nige]

I found Part Numbers on SIS for engine mount shims at one point. Just need to recall where I found them, it may have been an older model like a K but I bet they are the same for an L.

 

[Nige]

Cat Design Feature - designed to f**k you up......... they are called washers not shims. Item 3 and 6 in the illustration below.
There are three thicknesses available - 6K-7194 (1.6mm), 6K-7195 (0.9mm), 6K-8715 (3.0mm).

 

[fest777]

thank you nige, that is very helpfull, come too think about it way back i noticed the r rear mount cackling so i tightened it up and a few days later boom you know what, maybe washers fell out and tightening really tweaked the motor and pulled the pucks out thanks again fest

 

[fest777]

thanks kshansen

 

[Dave Neubert]

check your front motor mounts too I have had the rubber go bad and drop the front down

 

[Nige]

check your front motor mounts too I have had the rubber go bad and drop the front down

It would definitely be a good idea to go through all the motor mounts, replacing as necessary, before you go anywhere near the coupling with a dial indicator to try to set up the alignment.

 

[fest777]

i will check it , before i took the pucks out i put a 1/8" washer on the left rear and the separation in the pucks decreased, i'll put the indicator on in the morn,manual says to start at rear mounts for run out then front for face iam sure this is going too be a drawn out procedure thanks anthony

 

[fest777]

good news , checked trunnion today all good very little up and down movement move's axially like its supposed too, ended up with a 1/8" washer on left rear and 2 x .065 in the front both sides .flywheel dialed in at .030 outer runout and face about .022 at those numbers i stopped and tightened it all down starting at back to front, it did creep in when tightening just 3 or 4 thou more i think i'am still good , next i have too attack the hydraulics , both lines at bottom for lift arms on both sides are just dangling, there were no braces at all and bent too all hell just outside the small window they protrude from, i may have to fabricate some new mounts,also should i drain the fluid so i can heat up the lines to tweak them back too the proper position ? water or fluid seems to always hinder the heating capability of oxy/propan or oxy/accyl anthony

 

[DMiller]

I would NOT apply heat to Hydraulic lines, if have to go to those lengths remove them from machine and straighten or replace as have to. Just Asking for a real problem using a torch on them.

 

[fest777]

well its already been done. i noticed that the heated areas elongated a little so i braze reinforced coated them, if they fail i will get new lines and shape them, i have done this before and they held up ,that was on new material, any one know where too get new pipe or tube material ? and what thickness to use ,i believe a least .100 thickness or 1/8" min. seamless will do thanks all anthony

 

[DMiller]

Most decent hydraulic shops can make new, will need the old ones or decent drawings of the layout with measurements to reproduce.

 

[Nige]

Or alternatively get the Part Numbers and start looking around Machinery Trader or breakers yards. Plenty of those machines are being dismantled, it just depends if there is something somewhere with hard lines on it that are better than yours.

 

[fest777]

thinks are going o.k., got the lower lines straightened and braced .try to take some pics of a fest repair, did good on the hoses, got surplus 3/4" 30" jic for 24.99 each adapters from jic to flange were only 10.00 each a lot less that 200.00 each was quoted from the hose man, i had the cat reuseable ends but went with jic too flange adapters,i will save them, i have too get the 4 in 1 cylinders resealed both are leaking bad, former owner used used motor oil in the hydraulic tank, man those filters were dirtyiam looking for a radiator core # 2p1332 new will run around 850 to 1100 cat wants 3500 thanks anthony

 

[petepilot]

pricewise/ don`t know which is worse cat or snapon

 

[DMiller]

Cat at least still warranties their stuff, Snap Upon is getting less lenient on such.

 

[fest777]

here are a few shots of loader

 

[fest777]

here is what i have got done

 

[fest777]

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