931B trouble looking up parts

[rjc862003]

I got a 1980 931b (25Y00869) that threw the track off (broken link ) I am just trying to get it moving again to get it some-ware where we can work on it
the undercarriage is completely shot and in serious need of a re-man

here is what I have ordered so far
6S8343 and 6S8344 (left and right link sets)
cats site seems to disagree with its self as to what type of track it is the words SEALED is stamped on the links does that make this machine SALT ? do I need stepped bushings/which style of bushings pins with the sprockets so far gone is a new bushing going to be a problem

please advise
attached are some pictures

 

[Nige]

The biggest problem you might face is that with the age of the machine it could be running something different to what it was originally built with. Do the links also have the word "CAT" and the Part Number 6S-8343/6S-8344 depending which side you look at.? it's hard to see from your photos.



However out of the two options listed for the 931B, the one in the illustration below appears to be what your machine has. The give-away is the rubber plug in the end of the sealed & lubricated track pin which is only used with one of the two options. If what you have installed are Cat Links then the bush #10 should be a 6S-9051.

 

[rjc862003]

yea after some scraping and rubbing with some carbon paper they are CAT original links
yes those part numbers match what is stamped I ordered some after market ones from the usual suspects as cat no longer makes said parts

so that would make the pins

6B-5278

with bushing 6s-9051
correct
do you have the full parts list in the schematic you posted ?

 

[Nige]

do you have the full parts list in the schematic you posted ?

Yes I do. I'll send you a copy. Check your PMs.

 

[rjc862003]

I should be more clear the track is still seated on the sprocket/lowers I managed to yell bloody murder to get him to stop before it walked completely off
and no I have a local Caterpillar dealer (Milton cat), but there is just no way I can swing the cost to have them service it, if they do there going to want to replace every piece on it and thats just not going to happen

 

[rjc862003]

some pics of the sit , notice the 'massive' pile of dirt that finally broke this cat

 

[Welder Dave]

The tracks are wore out already so if you just want to move the machine to a better location you might be able to just remove a link and back the idler off all the way? If it was me I'd first see if there's a way to temporarily weld the links back together (even without the pin) to get it moved. How far do you have to move it?

You don't see too many 931B's with a cab and looks like yours had a 4 in 1 bucket at some point.

 

[rjc862003]

its about an inch short of just removing the bad link and putting it back together the adjuster is all the way back

it needs to go 75 foot back to get in where I have power and air to work on it

 

[Welder Dave]

That's not too far to move it. For that short of distance you could lay the track on the ground, back up the length of the track and do it again a few times. Might even be able to strap the ends together to get it moved that far. The time to take the track apart and put the new links in you could have had it moved.

 

[rjc862003]

really have no way todo that I got nothing I can jack it up with to move the track and backing it off and then trying to crawl it back on sounds like a good way to buried it the last time I did that I had to chain the Oliver 1855 to it and then use a 656 to pull the front end of the 1855 down to get it out

 

[rjc862003]

our current plan is just to get the BFH and beat on it until either the pin drops out or I do
any pitfalls I should be aware of here ? aside from potentially mushrooming it over
never changed a link on one of these so not sure on the process

 

[Welder Dave]

You need to have someone hold a bar or smaller pin against the track pin to prevent mushrooming. They can be a real beetch to remove especially if you've never done one. I'm not sure if yours will pound out. Looking at the pics. it looks like the bosses are worn and mushroomed over in front of the track pins.

If you put blocks under the back end and push down with the loader you can lift it up. You could likely rent a jack as well. You've got a couple tractors to help you so shouldn't be too hard to move it 75' unless it's muddy. I know a guy who moved a JD 355D with only 1 track. You're not planning to run it with the replacement link are you? If so it will likely just break again in a far worse location.

 

[rjc862003]

its really soft in the front yard there and yea we bought it todo some light grading, dug a small pond with it last year I been trying to milk everything I can out of it there just isn't room in the farm books to the service it badly needs we only paid 3000.00 for it so we have already worked that out of it

I know its toast but I am stuck between a rock in a hard place I am not sure what caused the failure the pins and bushing are shot but the links themselves are tight and don't have any excessive ware my only thought was that earlier this year we bent a grosser pad and the fix was to get the BFH and beat the **** out of it so I am assume it cracked the link

I am less concerned with removal as then I am installing worse case I just get the death wheel and cut the sob out of there the link is junk anyway if I take a chunk out of the center of the pin with the death wheel it should drive out?

I am not even sure replacing the sprockets is something we can do 'in the driveway' new sprockets chains,rollers and grosser pads are in order here my understanding is they are pressed on one side has been replaced that one is not near as bad as the side that let go

you think this is bad you should have seen the mess it was in last year digging that pond buried over the tracks and high centered

 

[Welder Dave]

You can buy weld on sprocket rims to save some cost and not have to pull the sprockets but need to hire a welder to cut the old teeth off and weld the new rims on. The pins are tight in the links but go through the bushings easier. It failed because it's beyond worn out. $3000 and it runs is a steal though especially with a cab. Best and easiest way to do undercarriage is pull the track frames off and you can flip them upside down to work on the rollers. I'm not there but would sure try to figure a way to move it without needing to remove and add a link. You still have drive on one track. You might be able to drive it with one track and a tractor pulling it. Even taking a couple track pads off so you could strap the 2 ends of the rails together enough to move it.

I have a backhoe on mine and had the main hyd. hose going to the control valve blow apart at the fitting. I had to shut the machine off immediately. The backhoe stabilizers were down so I didn't have the option of trying to pull it out. I had to remove the belly pan in place and lay in 60 litres of hyd. oil to get the old line off and then lay in the oil again to get the new line on.

 

[rjc862003]

yea the side that has been changed has got weld on's on it I thought that was separate part or one specifically made to accommodate weld but you are saying I can just torch the old teeth off and weld in new sections
I can get the whole chain out of china for about 500 bucks but I don't want to put a new chain with the rest of it being shot I assume it will chew it up in short order
https://www.alibaba.com/showroom/93...&CatId=&SearchText=931b+track&isGalleryList=G

driving on one track while pulling it with the 1855 is probably not going to happen until July its stupid wet on that side of the property its why I haven't really risked trying to limp it I fear if it breaks and walks of the track completely ill be all done for a couple months because its so sloppy it won't pick its self up it will sink to china and the tractor being so heavy will not have any bite and will just dig holes and I got nothing to pull that out lol


I my step dad had the idea of removing some pads and using some logging chain to band-aid it so we can drive it back thats my second problem I can't go forward with it only strait back out the way it went in

I have never seen or heard of that done if you know a good way to band-aid it so I can creep it back to a better spot I am all ears

ill trade you mind for yours with the hoe lol I need a hoe more then the loader

 

[Welder Dave]

I wouldn't put $500 for 2 Chinese rails on it. Korean like Trek/DCF might be a good option. You can buy just the ring with sprocket teeth to weld on. You need new sprockets with new rails and you likely need new rollers as well. Your pads you look pretty worn and you need all new nuts and bolts. It's not cheap! I thought maybe taking off the pads behind the pads at the break and then you may be able to put straps(maybe chain) on the pads on each side of the break to hold the track together to get it moved. Do you know a welder that could weld the links back together temporarily? That would be the easiest and you could just remove that pad. People have done all kinds of redneck repairs to move a machine or fix something in a bad spot.

 

[rjc862003]

Rails are 500/ea I can weld it its just a matter of getting power out there missing too much steel to weld the link I have new links on order if I need to burn one to move it so be 3 sets where only 45 bucks

 

[Welder Dave]

It won't be easy to get the pins out and new ones installed and that's an understatement. Just thought of something that might work. It looks like you have relief holes in the track pads. Get some steel cable about a foot long or so, 3/8" or 1/2" and connect the track pads together on either side of the broken link with a couple cable clamps on the top turned sideways. That should get you 75' if you take it easy. I wouldn't expect rails at about 1/3rd the cost of decent aftermarket to last very long but I guess are better than what you have.

 

[Queenslander]

Some might call it redneck, but to me, an effective bush repair would be to cut the centre studs,vertically, each side of the offending pin with an oxy torch.
Bolt the track plate on to realign the cut ends and weld the links up.
If there isn’t enough slack in the chain, it is simple enough to weld in another pin... with suitably cut links pressed on, either from another old chain or even new.
Not only will this get you to the shop, but it will last at least until the next link breaks.

 

[wosama931b]

I have a master link, that i saved from my old tracks, that are in shape.
What part of the world are you in.