aubuchon72786
Active Member
Tank was in the 160s when hot
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93 cat 312 not cooling down fast and looses power
- Thread starter aubuchon72786
- Start date
digger_hunter
Well-Known Member
Can you run on manual mode and see if the problem reoccurs. Just wondering if the PRV solenoid is getting hot and not working properly when it’s running hot and causing your engine to bog down. If you run in manual mode the PRV holds at a constant level. It will bog down when you load the hydraulics up. But it shouldn’t get worse with use. I would say the hydraulic oil is hot but not too hot to cause the bogging down. Ideally you could measure the pressure from the PRV before and after the problem occurs to see if yhe PRV is the cause. It could be that the solenoid coil is getting hot and unable to open close the valve as it should. Only way to properly chcek that is to first see if it’s drawing between 0.1-1.0 amps when operating as that’s the normal window. And if that’s all good then checking if the PRV pressure is hitting 25bar when the arm
And boom are held to relief. If that checks out as well then we would have to measure the main relief valve setting to see if that’s all good because if that’s set too high the pump could be loading up more than it should.
And boom are held to relief. If that checks out as well then we would have to measure the main relief valve setting to see if that’s all good because if that’s set too high the pump could be loading up more than it should.
aubuchon72786
Active Member
Manual or auto it does it
digger_hunter
Well-Known Member
just to double check the engine bogs down from the go or just after the oil warms up? if you want you can give me a call, pm me and I can share my number
aubuchon72786
Active Member
Bogs after oil warms up
aubuchon72786
Active Member
My signal wire leaving altinator is putting out 14.2_14.7 the book says it should not be over 14, in talking to digger today he thinks I should put an inline resister in, what voltage should we set register to? We are thinking this is the issue
Nige
Senior Member
Where exactly are you reading that.?
I have looked in the documents I uploaded and can't find any mention of it.
aubuchon72786
Active Member
Nige
Senior Member
OK, so that doesn't say the output must be a maximum of 14v, it says it should be "about 14v" which is somewhat different.
I'm more familiar with 24v systems where the alternator output can go up to 30-32v before it becomes "abnormal". That would appear to indicate that on a 12v system the output could be up to at least 15v and still be classed as normal. Just my opinion though, and I do not class myself as an electrical expert.
I'm more familiar with 24v systems where the alternator output can go up to 30-32v before it becomes "abnormal". That would appear to indicate that on a 12v system the output could be up to at least 15v and still be classed as normal. Just my opinion though, and I do not class myself as an electrical expert.
aubuchon72786
Active Member
So where should we go next we have worked on this every Day for 3 weeks
Nige
Senior Member
I'm sorry I don't know. I was simply trying to point out that I thought you were barking up the wrong tree regarding the alternator output voltage.
I was the one who was barking up the electrical tree, at the time there was a lot going on with the alternator, batteries dying, rewiring, etc. I may have been confusing this thread with another thread with electrical codes or warnings. 14.2 IS about 14V, even 14.5, 14.7 maybe questionable, but I'd have a hard time replacing a computer just for that.
I still think from what you've described of the electrical history, that this is worth looking further into, but I can't guess where to look, other than follow the diagnostics through without skipping any steps. After you've verified the computer is getting all the correct voltages and grounds, then I'd think about a new computer if that's what the diagnostics tells you.
15V or 30V isn't a problem by itself, it's not hurting anything, it's more a question of what it's supposed to be and why is it that way? it might be hinting at the problem in a round about way.
I still think from what you've described of the electrical history, that this is worth looking further into, but I can't guess where to look, other than follow the diagnostics through without skipping any steps. After you've verified the computer is getting all the correct voltages and grounds, then I'd think about a new computer if that's what the diagnostics tells you.
15V or 30V isn't a problem by itself, it's not hurting anything, it's more a question of what it's supposed to be and why is it that way? it might be hinting at the problem in a round about way.
aubuchon72786
Active Member
2 questions this morning, a neutral safety wire on my foot pedals about the time this started could that throw wrong signals? Question 2 the pilot hose r4 leaving pilot bank and going to valve bank is pulsating bad, what does r4 control
aubuchon72786
Active Member
So just an update I was able to get talked through the calibration of prv and we ended up cranking up the prv to get the engine big to go away, my pump pressure is 4500 with cold oil but when it gets to the temp where I loose power I'm down to 3300psi
Columbo
Senior Member
Can you post the procedure you used to check/adjust the PRV? What is the pressure when cold after you made the adjustments? I have a similar problem on a 311B that I am starting to troubleshoot (I’ll start a new thread so as not to hijack yours).
aubuchon72786
Active Member
What's yours doing
aubuchon72786
Active Member
D
Can you repost the
So If you scroll up in the conversation there is links u can click on to access the manual, to calibrate it you need to hook hydraulic gauges up and than the rest is done from the monitor step by step
Columbo
Senior Member
Similar to your problem I believe, after running for a while the cycle times for the hydraulics increases and the motor rpm seems to drop. It’s never severe enough to prevent me from working but it is noticeable. The hydraulic oil temperature gauge never shows more than halfway. I’m still in the early stages of diagnosis so I have not yet confirmed what the oil temp is when the problem appears.
